Okay, so I'm working on my friends truck and I need to remount the engine. But, I need to remove the engine head in order to remount it, as it has an aftermarket head. Will I need to replace then copper washer thats between the head and the cylinder? Or is it re-useable?

It should be ok to re use it. Just visually inspect it and be careful not to damage it when removing the head. As long as you do not bend it and there are no deep gouges in it then it's ok to re use. I've had the head off of my 3.3 numerous times and I've never replaced the gasket.

Okay thanks!

all so you need to put anti-sieze compound on the threads. realy al threads that are metal to metal should have anti-sieze compound on them, just a little. except the glow plug. and dont use pliers on the glow plug threads.

No, you dont want to put anti-sieze on the head screws. Any screw that goes into metal on a nitro *anything* should get some blue lock-tite, not anti-sieze. You don't run into the same problems with nitro engines as you do with car engines. (ie: steel spark plugs in aluminum heads needs antisieze.) There is no galvanic (I think thats the word I want) reactions in nitro engines.

Although this is what most people recommend, I however do not use locktite on the head screws. I havent needed it. Stripped head screws suck - don't overtighten them.

[sm=thumbup.gif] Believe it or not, adding antiseize to engine screws on these engines will actually allow you to overtorque the screws. This in turn will allow the crank case threads to be pulled out. It has to do with the ease of turning the screws, there is less friction to let you know that the screws are torqued down enough.

I didnt think of it that way - I figured it would just make them come loose easier. Good to know controlliner - I learned something today!

you can reuse it but i did and within 2 weeks of soft running i had to replace it because it looked like it melted,i dont know if i put in wrong or what but i would not recommend it

if the head screws are torqued right, the head shim should last the life of the engine and then some. If it doesnt, me feeling is it was probably leaking causing it to run lean and consequently too hot. Most of the head shims I've encountered are .1-.2mm thick and don't take much to damage them. If everything is clean before reassembly and the screws are torqued right it should last a long time.

If the condition of the shim is questionable, pick up a set at your lhs
or order some, their cheap.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDGF2&P=FR
You can tune with the different thickness too.