So i have been out of the loop for a bit as i have had a change of hobbies due to time. However i am getting back into the rc world and bringing out an old but still fun RC10GT. I still have the original AE.15 nitro setup it came with out of the box. I have done a tear down and refresh one time however not to the point that i replaced the sleeve or any of the internals for that matter. Basically a good old WD40 and relube a while back. Just recently after taking it out of a closet i decided let me see if this thing still pulls. As im sure you all assumed the motor wouldnt pull. Being in the automotive repair industry and taking my fair share of 2 stroke motors apart in other instances i am more than capable to do any of the necessary work to get this thing running again. My major issue is PARTS!!! As most of you know this truck is from around 2004 aprox. I have owned it since it was new and never had any issues with it other than the plastic control arms and rear shock tower that i swapped out with aluminum and carbon parts. Back to the main reason for this post. What reccomendations would you guys have to get this thing back out on the track. Motor swap or rebuild the AE.15?

bump?

Pull off the carb, head, and back plate and soak the block overnight in fuel. That should free it up so you can get it apart. Probably have to clean out the fuel passage in the carb. Might still run good. Worth a try anyway.

Why are you rebuilding the 15? is it corroded on the interior? I would dismantle it and see if you have corrosion. If not lube that puppy up and let the carb soak in alcohol or run alcohol through the intake port repeatedly, then drain it all out, and lubricate the piston and the internals a little. Then get to starting it. The alcohol will dissolve any deposits that are making it hard to start or not draw fuel. If the piston and the sleeve are deteriorated or seized permanently then its time to invest in a new engine.

Thank you for the input.

Reason for rebuild is that it has been in closet for 5 years. I have taken the motor off and pulled the head and all but the piston sleeve and connecting rod once before to let it soak once before after it had sat for a few years. That worked like a charm and i was able to dial it in and have some fun. Shortly after doing that is when it sat for another 5 years until the other day when i decided i wanted to take it out and get it going again.

I more so wanted to gain information on part availability before i took the head off and found that it was seized and/or full of corrosion so i know at that point what my options are. I guess it has to do with the fact that the first time it sat i was able to give a small pull on the start cord and it turned for me so i knew at that point that it should run with little to no work. This time i have tried to pull it and it really feels as if it is seized. I guess i will take the advice from the two of you and start off by opening it up and seeing what i'm dealing with first and stop being pessimistic about the situation at hand.

Thank you again! I will update the post either way with my findings tomorrow.

Well do I know the feeling. I've never really messed with gas powered RC cars, but used to with electrics. Like you, I recently decided to put the old girl back together again. Mine, being an RC 10 (now called the RC 10 Classic). I've had it just shy of 30 years and because of how a friend treated the car when I loaned it out (it came back stripped to the bone and missing a ton of parts), I have just started to re-assemble the car. Thankfully, the parts are still available. I'm doing it, and not just buying a replacement, because I've had the car for years, she'll be in top form with all the new and upgraded parts she'll have and I have a lot of great memories racing her around the track.

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I couldn't agree more. Although I haven't owned my gt for nearly as long as you have owned your classic. It was my first rc and it survived the jumps and ramps i would take it off of as i use to have fun with friends and at the time didn't have a care if something broke because they are so easy to work on and with the amount of upgrade parts a broken part just meant time to make an improvement. I recently tore down the motor pretty far and spin it over BY HAND!! I was pleased to see that the motor was in fact not 100% locked up. pulling the head and pull start enabled me to get it to turn. I cleaned it up a bit and made sure to put in a small amount of light weight oil which is actually used for pneumatic air tools and a small amount of a heavier oil to keep things well lubed. I did notice after reassembly i had it sitting on top of a cardboard box overnight a small "leak". It was coming from between the starter wheel/flywheel that i would use to start it had i bought the non pull start model and the motor. im not sure if this is because the oil i used was to low in weight or if there is a seal there that needs replacing.

team associated still have parts for it.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...ociated&page=1

Keep up the good work. It's a great feeling when you can bring a classic back from the dead lol. I'm just waiting for a bit of disposable cash to get the radio, esc and batteries before I take her for her first cruise in a good long time. Have to find a body kit for her as well. I was never a fan of the old buggie look and need to find a nice road car body to throw on her like when she was young.