hey guys, i finaly ditched the stupid stock wheels for some new rpm rims. i bought some new proline trac-ta-gators for the back, but i want to keep the front tires. duz anyone know how to pull the tire off the wheel with out skrewing up the tire? ill try to post some pics of my evader with the trac-ta-gators on it.

hey guys. Finally bought all my parts to get this running for the summer.

My ilder gear was spent, so I replaced it, cleaned out everything in the tranny, greased it all back up, and put the case back on, and it feels as if the gears are too tight. Spinning the spur gear doesn't feel tight, but it feels notchy. It's not smooth. Anyone else experience this? I don't remember if it was like this when i got it. With the case off, the gears spin freely though. Design flaw?
THANKS

Did ya win that chassis, doogie? I was thinkin about it, mines gettin scratched up on the bottom, and I want to strip the anodizing and polish one of them.

You'll like that tank really well. If nothing else, it gets rid of the dumb yellow lid. Mine has a clear lid though, and it opens in the other direction, opposite of the stocker. I can fill it up better with the body on, and its out of the way of the linkages and air filter. Still looks good, though.

not over yet
hes got like 16 of them

Yeah, I got a few more things I need to get first... I just sold my T3, so its goodie time!

there you go. i did manage to pick up a new airbrush tonight. i also bought new wheels and tires for my gp and im going to try a sprint car body on my evader.

Here's my current setup with my GT tank...

that's purty

(actually kinda cool looking)

i was afraid to mount it that way because of the close tolerance to the fly wheel. i didnt really want to take the dremal to it. the fly wheel that is because the tank is just pretty.lol

Thanks. It's really roomy too. Eventually I'm gonna do away with all the yellow and replace it with black and blue to get a serious look going on with the chassis. The clear cap would work well with any color scheme I could want.

Your truck looks good too, I see a failsafe going on there. High tech, lol. I am a fan of the old school return springs, personally, but to each his own.

I was just thinking, powder coat the head (not your's the engine's) yellow, that would multiply the bling bling factor exponentially

but then again, you could powder coat blue or black parts too.. hmmmmm, gonna have to call my powder coat guy tomorrow and send him some work

i ve heard the arguements before but last week when i had the needle housings come loose and was running at what seemed to be at least 3/4 throttle and the servo hadnt moved yet, and i couldnt shut it down so i threw the off switch on the control and shut it down that way. if i didnt have it my evader would have been toast. i did buy a spring for my gp though because it didnt come with one. better to be safe than out a couple hundred

hey, did you have to do anything to get that tank on or is it using the same holes in the chassis as the stock tank.

no you have to drill, you can use one but thats it. i ctually only have two screws in because my drill died and the last hole is so close to an existing one but not that close

you could add a 150cc tank instead of the rc10gt tank, and it doubles the capacity to 150cc instead of 75cc. You need to drill two new holes, the other holes just need to be slotted a little, and cut and trim the reciever-switch box. I've done this to two of my evaders.

xdd, i just noticed where your outlet is. mine is in the side. shouldnt be a big deal but thats what was causing me to have to mount it that way

Yeah, some GT tanks are different than others I have noticed. They are all a lot better than the stockers though, so its all good. I'm almost out of fuel right now, so I am gonna have to blow some cash on a new gallon before this weekend. I gotta do a good thorough bashing with a bud. That will be the first time the .18 has seen any bashing. I have basically been cruising around and doing general jumping.

My BX gears should be in by Wednesday, so this weekend, its gonna be ON!!

I stripped and polished my chassis a few weeks ago i will post pics later it looks real nice.

i ordered my bx bell thursday and it still hasnt shipped

to get tires off the rims an easy way is to put the rims on a wire stand in a sealable tin (big catering pack coffee tin) and putting a thin layer of acetone (nail pollish remover) on the bottom. leave for a few hours & all the glue turns rubbery & you can pull the tires off the rims very easily. if you are quick you can also use a small flat bladed screw driver to scrape all the glue off the rims. BUT don't do this with cheap rims, they will dissolve. I know proline rims are OK to do this with, but i think the Duratrax stock rims will dissolve, no biggie, they buckle & crack anyway & should be replaced.

I haven't personally baked my tires, but I understand that they can be removed with the method listed at the end of the attached link, 10-15 minutes at 350 deg. As you might also read in this link, don't leave them unattended unless you want to seriously cook them.

[link]http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/archive/index.php/t-163164.html[/link]

Let us know how you choose to get the tires off the rims, and how it works.

i personally do use the fume tin method, it works well, but be carefull & open the tin in a well ventilated area away from open flames, if you do it indoors you will get affected by the fumes. i also assume that that's degrees F, not C, you will melt your rims at 350 deg C. 180 deg C (350 F) would be close to making the rims lose shape.

You can boil the rims in water for 5 min on each side (flipping them because they will float). Take them out run some cold water over them and peal away, tire will be perfect and rims will look ok, but the rims will be weakened by the boiling and will most likely be trash. Be careful when you remove the tire as the inside foam will be full of very hot water.

sounds like your alm ost better off just buying rims for every set of tires

nope, i have never had a problem with proline rims & the tin method. another way to do it is to rip the rims off & use a good flat bladed screwdriver to scrape the left over tire & glue off. if you don't want the tire & don't want to use acetone this is the easiest method. i have plenty of rims, so once the tire is no good for racing i use them as hack around tires till they're beyond salvage then i rip them off & stick the rims in the tin for a while, or soak them in about 4mm of acetone for 10-15 minutes & scrape the excess glue off, then soak the other side. proline rims aren't affected by acetone so much. if you leave them soaking overnight you may lose them, but in the fume tin they're fine. i know one guy who dissolved a set of duratrax rims by leaving them in acetone too long.