got the motor back from rebuild today. threw it all together and it fired right up. gotta love the duratrax warranty people.

Yes, I am loving my DTX .18 more and more that I drive it. I kind of wish it the piston was plated with chrome rather than nickel, but at this point, I see no ill effects. It sure is torquey, but its almost beyond practical, at least in a truck this light. I still can't drive this thing, than goodness I'm just a basher...

Kind of curious, how many gallons have you guys got out of the good old .18 so far? I am wondering how this sucker will hold up for the long run...

ohh man ive got mine set-up for excellant handling. my brothers is still stock and almost got away from me a few times. i dont see any reason yet to go to a cv-r of any type

i installed the 4 shoe clutch last night. it needed a spacer behing the fly wheel & another between the fly wheel & the clutch nut to get the clutch bell & spur to lign up. i put the fly wheel with shoes on into my drill press, fired it up & sanded & filed the shoes to be the right size for the clutch bell. i didn't want to mess with removing material from the clutch bell, i measured the balance on it & it was perfect, no point messing with that. the balance on the fly wheel & shoes is good too. can't wait to give it a bash & see how it holds up.

xdd, did you out bid me on that chassis? i did manage to grab that dtx.18 though. after i got my brothers ride going yesterday, i have decided to try my hand at a video. although my house full of women hasn't produced any good camera operators it might take a few weeks.

gave the evader a blast when i got home last night. the 4 shoe clutch works well. it engages at a higher rpm which i like (more punch off the line) which means i had to wind the slipper out a little to keep it under control on the loose surface. so far so good.

Nope, sure didn't doogie... I've got my eyes on an AE T3 right now. Those things are the toughest truck for their size, I'm tellin ya. They may be electric but I love em anyway.

there's nothing wrong with electric. my RC18T is by far my fastest & most fun model to drive, it is also quite challenging to get it around the track & keep it off it's lid.

My talons and HPI V Groove low profile tires showed up last week and I finally had a chance to really find out what my Evader could do on pavement. Holy crap, once I had it dialed in, if I felt like a drift racer. My head temp maxed out at around 196 deg F (which I think is perfect). Is there a direct correlation to heat and running lean? The last thing I want to do is blow another rod.

I put through about 10 tanks of nitro. My starter box has some alignment issues, I need to pull the motor and get everything lined up better, I am running the vented flywheel, and I am hoping that this is not the problem. I have the power panel on the starter box, and when I crank it up to high, I can start this my car in no time. I am still trying to figure out the best combination of glow plug and fuel. I use 20% nitro, don't ask me why, I just figured more was better. I have used different plugs, Duratrax, OS, and I just bought some Fox plugs (I haven't tried these yet). Anyone have the best combo for bashing?

Darth

i run the lc3 with 20%

i run OS#8 or OS A3 depending on the weather & 16% nitro. more nitro will shorten the life of your engine, but you will probably destroy it some other way before the nitro will kill it anyway.

the 4 shoe clutch flywheel is considerably smaller than the stock one making a starter box difficult to use unless it has a small wheel that will reach the flywheel. i still use the pullstart, but i can usually start it 2nd or 3rd pull once it's primed.

Doogie, I noticed somewhere back that you were bidding on a chassis. I didn't bid against you, but I did buy one from the online store. Mine is scratched up actually bent in the front where I tried to drive through a curb. I ordered a SS screw kit from RCScrewz.com and am not happy at all. The thread patterns are not even close and I refuse to cross thread any of my aluminum parts. All of the SS screws are not the same lengths. I found a good review on the kit offered by Hexscrews.com. Hex is alloy steel and claims to be 30% stronger than SS and titanium. Anyone have any recommendation on replacement screws?

Darth

sorry to hear that dude. i got my screw kit from hobbycampus.com off of ebay. its awesome, ive havent had a problem yet from any of it. as far as the ss, i dont see the need but thats my opinion. i was thinking about putting another evader together but i don't know. right now im working on a sprint car body for it and thats getting to be time consuming

I have the rcscrews.com kit and it worked fine for me the screws are just a little longer. Also keep on a look out for a new cooling head from acncm.com they should have a colling head out for the evader in the next couple of months. This is just a heads up as there head should be nicer than the stage 2 head. Anyway i will get a pre production one as they are using my engine for measuring and i will post some pics when i get it.

Has anyone on here had many problems out of the rear suspension plate? I broke mine the other day and it let the rear CV move around enough that it broke at the joint. I also noticed my rear shock tower has a crack in it, but that was my fault for taking a run without the body, and underestimating the power of the .18, lol.

I have heard that the replacement parts seem to be stronger than the originals, does anyone else seem to think this is true? I know I replaced the front knuckles on my last N-Evader after breaking them, and never had a problem again. I am hoping the new shock tower and suspension plate will be the same.

I have also broke 2 CV's altogether, but both of them were older and has more miles on them. I have sinced replaced them, but am not sure how well they are holding up since I just ran out of fuel. I originally broke the left one, so I bought a new set and just replaced the left side one, and left the original on the right side. Then, a few tanks later, that one broke as well. Maybe they just broke in part due to their age.

I hope all these problems are just one time bad luck, because I've had a hell of a time keeping this sucker together lately. The .18 is just killing the driveline. The tranny and spurs hold up great, but its the wheels and CV's I've had problems with. I have stripped the inside out of both rear wheels, which I fixed my using longer pins (which worked great), but then I broke the left rear wheel. These are older wheels, and I planned on getting new wheels and tires soon, so this isnt a big deal, but the fact that it happened is crazy to me. I have never broken a wheel. Then again, I have never had anything to put out the kind of power this thing does...[&:]

XDD, I have broke my stock rear suspension plate a while ago and replaced it with the anodized aluminum. When I break a part that is offered in the aluminum I usually buy it. The only thing I have to go yet is the front shock tower. I can tell a big difference in going with the aluminum. Just about every time I went out bashing I was breaking something... not anymore. I haven't broke a CV, but used to loose pins every now and then, heat shrink has taken care of that problem. I haven't stripped the inside of the rear wheels, but I have put some hairline cracks in the stock front rims.

Doogie, I will have to give Hobbycampus a try.

On another note, I have noticed that the 3/16 nylon insert hex nuts for securing the wheels onto the axles are really uncommon. I have wanted to dress them up by going to a blue anodized aluminum but haven't had any luck locating any.

I am going to be upgrading my tank to the RC10GT fairly soon, I hate cleaning the fuel spray, it really attracts the dirt.

Evaderstman, I went to the head site and they do look like they would run cooler, more fins, more surface area. They show one for the O.S. 18TM right now, do you know if it will work on the 0.S. 18CVR?

Darth

No i don't know if it will work, but you could call them and ask.

well, I gave my evader a new look today and I'm really liking it. Put on some new rubber and wheels, then got the bug to paint a body, don't know if the pictures show it real well, but it's pearl purple.. kinda cool for me..

That color combination will get people's attention. What kind of body is that? Associated?

it's a Proline Crowd Pleazer for the XXXNT.

the paintjob was kinda blah, but I wasn't feeling real creative yesterday.. the color is cool, I just need to figure something else to go with it.

I am a total beginner to RC Cars.. not counting the cheapo toy RC's from Radioshack and walmart.

I bought one just a week ago from Tower... and about midweek went and bought some O'Donnell 10% fuel + disposabel fuel filters from a local hobby store.

Just hours ago I went to the local middle shool parkinglot to break the engine in according to the instructions.

Starting went just fine despite that folks rag about the sucky glowstarter thingy worked fine for me!
First and second tank went fine then on the third it started smoking more than on the first two tanks.. the fourth tank there was increased smoke. I ran warm but not too hot according to the instruction manual/video.

I ran it without a fuel filter this time... but figured a filter would be a cheap insurance.

What size fuel tubing should I buy so I can extend it enough to get the filter inbetween?

The Stock aircleander is pointing forward not to the side... should I turn it? Better air filters out there?

10% fuel ok? Or should I make it 15-20?

What size/brand/style bodies will fit on this truck? Prepainted?

Tires seem to wear out fast on asfalt.... replacements? Rims?

I am sure I will have many more question to you PRO's as time goes by...
Right now I'm looking forward to running the next two tanks and getting it broken in.


This forum and this tread has been a exellent source of info... but it's getting almost too big to search in.


-M

what is going on here?

if you look at the low speed needle, around that is a brass collar, behind that the horn that goes to the throttle servo. This thing was running insane yesterday, now, this horn just goes wherever it likes. It'll center about halfway above the needle sometimes, at other times it'll center at about the 3 o'clock position, no particular place really, just wherever it wants. What is loose? how do I tighten it?

thanks

you need to tighten the brass housing if you're talking about the throttle linkage moving. if you're talking about the needle adjusting itself you'll need to replace the oring in there.

spare rims - proline velocity dish for 1/10 trucks, they also have a good range of tires, find what suits you best.

any standard fuel line will be fine

the OS air filters are good you want the 102 one. it doesn't matter which way it faces as long as it is on, never run it with it off.

run your engine in rich, search on "running in" and you should find several posts i have posted about running engines in.

pro line xxxnt bodies will fit, you can make most 1/10 truck bodies fit, you just need patience.

the lower % nitro the longer your engine will last, don't go above 20%. i personally run 16%.

if you are running the stock tank, run a fuel filter, the dubro ones are good.

ohh that sucks. that happened to me a couple of weeks ago and it cooked my brake disk. the throttle was open but the servo hadn't moved to release the caliper

I've had the engine out a couple of times and retightened it, it worked loose less then half a tank later, something is going on and I don't know whether to use locktite or not. Like you, full brakes the last run was about half throttle, that won't work well.. I'll call duratrax tomorrow and let them fix this one. I didn't do carbs on my first cars, my bikes or anything else, I'm thinking this isn't the time to start..

but on a good note, tuesday while I'm playing hookie from work, I'm gonna go up and get the .18 cv-rx to replace the DTX while it is being looked at. (I'll use it as a spare for one of the other evaders)