Bon Jour Bram,

The most important thing when first running you Evader is the breakin. In the original manuals the instructions are wrong. If your manual says to start at 2 turns out on the hi-speed needle and turn down from there, its wrong. Start at 2 1/2 turns and increase (turn counterclockwise) until it just barely runs when you pull away. Run it easy this way for 2 tank fulls, then turn it in (clockwise) 1/8 turn per tank until its running good, gradually running it harder. After 6-8 tankfulls you should be done with breakin and your final needle setting should be around 2 turns out give, or minus an 1/8 - 1/4 turn depending on your weather conditions. I live in Texas and it gets very hot in the summer and we don't run during the heat of the day. Generally, if its above the low 90F, monitor its temperature and avoid any long hi-speed runs. Good luck.

Thank you all very much for your replys!!![8D]

I never run my nitro cars over 30 degrees C. I finally got to get them all out for a run yesterday. The dogs got some good exercise chasing them around the back yard, saved me taking tthem for a walk. Which 17 tooth clutch bell are people running on their evaders? Is it a harfdened steel one & what is the pitch of the teeth?

I put a post on here a few pages back on how I run my engines in. Basically as rich as the engine will go without stalling for 5 tanks at wide open throttle (the car will crawl around real slow & not rev much at all) then backing off 1/8th of a turn until it sings. Then I wind the low speed needle in till it pings off the line but doesn't increase revs at idle.

Cheers
Dicko.

The standard clutch bell for the Nitro Evader Buggy is 17T. Its a no hassle direct replacement. Look under the Nitro Evader BX parts at Tower.

I want to start racing my Evader ST, what hop-ups should I buy to ensure a good run and stay with/beat the rest of the pack?

You'll need to buy a good 0.15, 0.18 size engines aren't race legal. Then adjust your shocks to suit the track (springs & oil weight). After that you'll find things to adjust by trial and error.

Good Luck
Dicko.

Check with your local track about engine size. Most tracks let you race what you have. I race my Evader at 2 local tracks and they don't care in the novice / intemediate level. One of the tracks says your must be R.O.A.R. legal for the "expert" class. Go watch before actually trying to race. See what the other racers are using for tires, suspension settings, etc. Look over the track for tough spots and where other racers crash. Talk to as many racers as you can. Try to go practice on the actual track before racing, if possible.

As for the Evader, the things I consider "must haves" are:
1. Metal gear high torque steering servo with a new aluminum servo arm
2. Higher weight shock fluid (50wt - 80wt, depending on track)
3. Inline fuel filter
4. Spares
- Glow plugs
- Batteries (if not using rechargeables)
- Ball cups
- Tie wraps
- Spur gear
5. Adequate tools to do track side repairs and adjustments

Make sure your gear mesh is okay (between spur gear and clutch bell pinion)
Make sure your slipper is adjusted to track conditions so that yo're not fishtailing all over the track on starts and coming out of curves
Make sure your differential is adjusted correctly
Check all screws and nuts for tightness
Make your goal in the beginning to run as smoothly as possible and not crash. Don't fight for the lead right off the bat.

Good Luck.

Dicko,

In the USA ROAR is the leading governing body and ROAR rules specifies engine size for 1/10 stadium truck to be .12. .15 is just as illegal as .18. The truth is most local tracks do not follow ROAR rules for normal racing and will let you run anything unless its a ROAR sanctioned event, or they have a competive "expert" class.

I'd get a nice nova rossi with turbo head then

how will the alum clutch bell hold up with the alum shoes?

I finally got a chance to really run my car today. My boss, hinted that i should bring it into work, so I did. We all took a nice break from programming and took the car outside to the an empty parking lot . This car is awsome, it handles great, its fast, and it ran fine, once broken in right.


Jason

Changes from stock inlcude:
Fail Safe,
Hobbico Servo, with steal gears.
Using my glow starter from my airplanes (the plastic one with the C batter, just don't cut it.)

Show Off.........
It's A beautiful thing!

Bill, i have a question, i would like to know, how many tanks full do you use in one day, in a hot day about 30°c

Thanks

what size tires do you guys run on your trucks? the reg 2.2 for stadium trucks or the larger ones? and how does the larger ones affect the trucks performance?

Braam,
30C isn't too bad to run in, but I would still allow the engine to cool every couple of tanks. In a hot climate like you live in the best time to run is early morning, or dusk, or night if lights are available. In Texas we race at noon late fall through spring, but only race at night with lights in the summer. You should seriously consider a temp gauge to monitor your engine and you might want to consider a head with a larger cooling area, such as DuraTrax stage 2, or Golden Horizons. I intend to get one before summer.

Hopefully the weather will be good for the race this weekend. Last time I was the only Nitro stadium truck to rock up, everyone else stayed home to watch the Australian F1GP. This time I have all my new tyres ready to go & fuel to burn. If anyone lives in Adelaide South Australia get on down to the track. the website is http://www.users.bigpond.com/smeddy/offroad/

I just have to remember to charge my batteries.

Finally!!! A Nitro Evader thread with tons of information.[sm=thumbup.gif]. I've been searching high and low for a forum like this since I got my Evader for X-mas. I've already reaped a wealth of information. Keep the posts coming. BTW there has not been a day I haven't snapped something or other on my Evader but since all of the parts (until this weekend) are under Stress Tech Warranty and the replacement parts are cheap I'll be keeping a good supply of shock towers (3), hubs (1F/1R) and front body mount (1) in rotation, The CVD and assorted bearings will come out of pocket.

Glad you found us. There is another thread at radio control zone with a lot of info on it too. It has gone a bit quiet lately, but you might get something worth while from it. The link is

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/foru...&pagenumber=18

good luck.

A quick question to all. I want to get an aftermarket body for my Evader so I can paint it but I want a different body than the stock Evader body. Does anyone know what other bodies fit the Evader?

The main thing to look for is shock tower clearance. If that's positioned right then almost any 1/10 stadium truck body will fit. Right now I'm in the middle of painting a Pro Line Crowd Pleaser body for a RC10GT for my Evader. Mugen's MST-1 body will fit and I think Losi's ST bodies will too. Do your own painting only if you enjoy doing that kind of work (I do) and have patience. You won't save any money from buying a pre-painted one.

check out proline for bodies. The RC10GT ones will fit the evader (not the electric ones) they have a huge range of pre painted bodies, one of them may strike you. they have a huge range of tyres & wheels too.

Quick thing. I finished installing it all earlier. What, you may ask? The brand spankin' new aluminum idler gear for the NEVST's Gearbox. Quite nice! Using Masher 2k's in the back of the truck and the original blade tires in the front has caused a little bit of a tranny problem for me. I noticed if the diff gets a little loose and spins a lot, it will warm up and EAT the plastic idler gear without a problem. Took me 2 of those little plastic suckers to realize that. One of the best upgrades you can make to your Nitro Evader at this point looks to be an all-metal gearbox. The hardened diff gear and aluminum idler makes it absolutely bomb-proof. I should probably put Masher 2k's on the front, too, though. Sorta truggy-ish right now. Top-breaking peices so far seem to be:

Rear Suspension plate
Rear shock tower
Differential Gear
Idler Gear
Front hub carrier
Rear Hub

So, you figure.., all aluminum would cost you..
$34 - Aluminum Rear Shock Tower
$22 - Aluminum rear hub
$22 - Aluminum front hub carrier
$17 - Aluminum Diff Gear
$17 - Aluminum Idler Gear
$40 - Aluminum Rear Suspension Plate

Viola, bombproof for a mere $152 not including S&H. Not bad. Tack on a Stage 2 or GH cooling head and you're set. Easy way to protect your car is to order, also, the XXX NT's ultra-wide bumper from RPM and tack that on your Evader's front end. Drill a few holes + countersink to make them fit, and your front end is perfectly protected. Not bad for $9.

Do you think its good/possible to do the breakin in one day?

i have broken a car in in one i used 1 bottle of fuel started @ 9:30 in the morn ran it slowly till outa fuel let it cool off and then did that all in oneday till my cacr was thorouly broken in

Glad I put a fail safe on my car. Yesterday at lunch I was running my car up and down the street in front of my house. During the day the neighborhood is empty, so it's not that big of deal. I was having fun jumping the curb, from the street, into my yard. On one of the jumps the antenna tub snapped. I did a radio check and everything still seemed to be working ok, so I fixed the tub and kept going(man this car is a blast). On my last run I was running the car wide upon down the street, when it stopped all of a sudden. Couldn't figure out why. When I got to the car and looked down at it, the fail safe light was flashing. It would seem that the batteries in the car where getting weak. I would have hated to see what would have happen if I didn't have the failsafe on my car.

Jason