I think I'll go ahead and order the replacement for the steering horn. That way I have it just in case. I was pretty sure that futaba and hitec horns were not compatible. To test my theory, I'll remove the hitec servo and see if the broken duratrax (futaba) servo gear fits snug without sleeping.

I'll probably set the car aside for today anyways I've got a plane thats almost finished.


Jason

Is the Epic .18 a direct fit on the evader st

You're right, the servo horns are not compatible. I'm using a HiTec 645 servo in my Evader and I'm using an aluminum servo arm with the ball turned 180 degrees around. This has worked fine for me for months of hard running and racing. The Futaba horn will work for a short period of time before stripping out.

Bill,

thanks, I was pretty sure they weren't compatible. I guess, I'll head to the LHS and track down an aluminum servo arm. My new servo should be here tomorrow. My wife and I just ordered my brother-in-law a nitro evader for his birthday, and one of my friends ordered himself one yesterday. Between the 3 of us we're going to have a blast.

On top of my evader, I've got 3 planes to fly also.

Jason

hey Bill, how did this tank work out? was it difficult to install? how well did it fit? thanks!

RayRay,

I'm very happy with th Overdrive ST fuel tank so far. Fit was no problem although I had to drill 4 locator pin holes and 2 new screw holes. It has a bottom feed, so it sets up on a pedestal, raising the center of gravity a little. Its not noticible in practiced, however, I haven't raced with it yet. It does give me the longer run time that I was looking for being 100cc instead of 75cc. In addition, it has a better seal on the lid and a stronger spring, plus it has primer on it. It is also baffled to prevent bubbling. It make the low speed needle a little harder to adjust, but its still doable. I'll try to post some pictures sometime this week. Overall I think it was a good change.

hey do you guys know how long the evader has been out for and if they will discontinue it anytime soon and if the engine is easy to tune

thanks bill for your reply, I will look for the pics over the next week. I do want to change my tank out, as the hinge on the lid broke on day 1. I have been doing the "rubber band thing" ever since. It has worked fine,no leakage.I just cant see replacing for the same tank, which will probably break again. I also like the 100cc upgrade.
thanks again[sm=thumbup.gif]

they probably wont discontinue the evader for awhile since it hasnt been out all that long and they are selling quite a few of them. The dtx .18 is a fairly easy engine to tune. Mine has held its tune for awhile and runs about 220-230 even though i run it pretty hard. Definitely one of the strongest low rpm power motors ive ever had but i wish it could rev a little higher. Doesnt have that endless powerband i like in motors but i still think its a great motor. I put on a 54 tooth spur gear and that helps a lot and with the giant masher tires its scary fast. Even with the 54 spur it pulls extremely hard through the low rpm-mid rpm range It will light up the mashers on the street.

RayRay,

Here are the pictures of my Evader with the Overdrive ST fuel tank installed.

Thanks Bill.... Nice truck, Looks like you got that thing "Dialed". I appreaciate your help!..... with your break in tips, My evader is runnin great. I think I will got to tower and order a new tank. what would we do without r.c.universe.
Thanks bill.....Good luck at the races!!!![sm=thumbup.gif]

i seen you run yoursbetween 220-230* right,,i was running mine pretty hard and checked it and it was like 205-210* but if you spit on it ,the spit bubbles right off which i thought was bad so i've been trying to run easier i know 240 is the max correct? one other thing mine is hard to start when its hot and shuts off but i wait a few mins till it cools down and it start right up, any ideas or is this normal? i have lots more questions and have read all the past pages i'll post them later,,thanks

hey all...got some new pics of my truck after i hit a pole..whack of new parts including a new steering servo..its a hitec 645 with carbonite gears...shodl have it runnin soon as soon as i can figureout what happend to my transmitter and rx...one of em kinda died on me [:@]

i think this is a pic with the body on...




and without...



xcant wait to see what kinda crap those mashers will throw up

hey guys...... After a gallon run thru my evader....It has not run over 150'f , and I'm not being easy on this thing.Today alone I must have jumped it 5-6ft in the air at least 20 times,(built a 2ft ramp) and did'nt break a thing.Mashers are awesome for jumpin! anyway what am I doin wrong? my engine does not run hot at all. do I need to lean it out more? I'm runnin at 1 7/8 out on the HSN. Thanks![]

mbd- Yea 240 -270 is about the max you want to run the dtx at. The instructions of the early model evaders run the engine too lean and caused premature loss of compression. I should know thats what happened to mine. Mine did that hard to start when hot thing at about a gallon. I just sent the motor into duratrax and they sent me a brand new complete motor back and thats what im running now. The instructions are different now. And its had about half a gallon through and i have no problem restarting it when hot. And for the temp thing, what are you using to taking temp and where are you taking it on the engine? And pm me if you need any other info


rayray- 150 seems unusually low to me. Especially at 1 7/8 turns. The new instructions from duratrax say never to go below 2 turns or you risk a lean mixture. Mine runs at 220 -230 at about 2 1/8 turns. You might want to check out how your taking the temp on the engine. That can make a huge difference

Nitroguy,
I'm using the duratrax temp gauge from tower(little blue one)(24.99) and I hold it right over the glow plug. not touching anything. and the average read is around 130-140. granted its a little breezy out here. Do you take temps "right" when the engine shuts off.. or take them after a few 10-20 seconds. does that make a diff? Thanks

I would take the temp as the motor is running. I have a venom onboard temp gage and i know my engine cools off very quickly. 30 seconds to a min after the motor isnt running temps drop 50-60 degrees. Do the water drop test on it or better yet if it really is running at 130-140 like the gage says you should be able to hold your hand on the top of the head(The head should even be cooler) without discomfort. IF you cant the readings are off and if you can lean it out alittle bit to get it up to proper running temps.

Yea, I'm thinkin the gauge is accurate.cause after It runs out of gas....I refuel and am able to hold my finger over the pipe(to prime it) and its not hot enuf to burn. I will tho test the temp while it is running. maybe I'm waitin too long to take the temps. Like I said out here in the high desert(lake tahoe area) It gets quite breezy....maybe its coolin off before I take the temp....Thanks again for your help

no problem, if you have any other questions feel free to ask

RayRay,

I'm running my Evader at 1 7/8 turns out, also, and I running around 220F when running hard in 70F weather. I measure my temp right after a fast run with the engine running and my temp gauge touching, or almost touching the head and the sensor pointing directly at the glow plug. I'm using the DuraTrax temp gauge too. Did you change the emissivity reading of your gauge? Its a little confusing, but the temp gauge works best with it set as it comes. Check your instructions. Like Nitro guy said, do the spit test and if its really 150F you should be able to wrap your hand around the head. One other thing, what fuel are you using? I use 20% nitro. When running hard you want your engine to be in the 220-230 range. I'd check out a few other things before leaning out any further. I may go down to 1 3/4 turns for racing, but I won't go below that, and I intend to keep it at 1 7/8 to 2 for practice and general running.

do you guys know if the engine that comes with the car is hard to tune

hey guys! got my nitro yesterday. freaking amazing! I haven't used a gas rc since i was a teenager with my old puddle jumper.

my experience so far. I had a hard time keeping it running thr first 2 tanks. i'v found using 5 c cells to rotate through seems to help it start better. and the half throttle thing, thanks to someone who said to use the trim to throttle it up...

my first upgrade will be a better glow plug warmer

thanks for all the tips!

hey dicko, you didnt use to live in Griffith, NSW about 15 years ago , did ya?

hey bill,
I have not adjusted the temp gauge at all. however I have not taken the temp while it is running either.so next time(hopefully today weather permitting) I will do that,like you said during the final run.I also will hold it closer to the head.I am currently using duratrax red alert 20%.I dont really want to go any leaner. 1 7/8 for bashing I think is just fine.

Dude........how many times are you going to ask this question.....nitroguy already answered you in an earlier post

You guys say you're running them at about 1 7/8 turn out? In the manual it said premium setting would be 1 1/4 to 1 3/8? I got theses figures from my brother-in-laws car, which arrived yesterday.

Funny thing about his, when we received it, we had to reverse both the steering and the throttle.
Hopefully my new steering servo will be in today, these cars are a blast. We had his running all over the place, (he didn't care to much to follow the break-in instructions). I tried telling him, but it's his car.

Jason