Hi, I would like some advise on parts before I place an order with Tower (its my birthday on Wednesday so I thought I'd treat myself). I'm gonna get a few upgrades including the super chassie and the woven-graphite upper deck. There are a few bits im not sure will fit, though, or if they are any good . Any advice would be appriciated.

I found these and have just broke the bit they replace so they look very attractive at the mo (appart from the purple). They're listed for the RS4 MT, any one know if they fit the MT2??

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZ50&P=7
AND
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZ54&P=7

Also I'd like a bigger fuel tank but right this second Tower ranout of the HPI 100cc ones. Anyone know if this would fit... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFZN7&P=ML ...I may be dreaming. If not that one, didn't someone fit this one with no probs... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBM24&P=7

And to go with the tank I was looking at this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEYG3&P=DC mainly because I'm not sure how to prime the engine without the pump.

I also found these and they looked like quite good value... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZJ59&P=7

Any advice would be great. And Happy Easter

most of the stuff from the mt doesnt fit the mt2, so i doubt it

Awww ok. Do you think this clutch bell will be alright to tip the power more towards torque and acceleration? Its a 13 toother and I'm running the stock engine.

err, heres a link to it.. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFPZ3&P=6

The power line lower arm mounts are for a MT1 as that is what I have on my MT Racer. They might work on the MT2 but not sure as the MT2 has bumpers and the MT1 dose not. HPI makes a 100cc tank that Towers sells. I put one in my MT Racer but had to do some fabrications but is easy on the MT2.

I think the rear arm mounts at Tower are the same as these http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/...iup&part_id=49 if so, then the rear should fit, but looks like the front wont. Proberly 'cos of that bumper. I may just get the rear one and use the optional Hinge Pin Set http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVB86&P=Z for the front. That should keep the hinge nice and solid.
I really want to try fitting that 160cc Savage tank...[>:]

46U i wasn't haveing a go i was just saying that these things happen sometimes. I know i treat my cars well and try not to break them needlessly but i just find the rotostarts easier. Some people have to change their 1 way bearing every gallon cus they start slipping (even though they can usually just be cleaned off) but i have never had any problems with my oneway bearings and my savage one has had about 60 hours run time. These thing just happen sometimes its just bad luck sometimes its just a faulty product but each to there own.

Hope you all had a fun and crash free weekend of bashing LOL

They will work but I think you have to do with out the bumper like on the MT2. MT1 does not have bumper stock.

talk operated,
if you want nore torque, go down on teeth for the clutchbell, i just put an 11 tooth on mine and it rips any little bump and the front end is off the ground. the HPI 100cc tank is a direct drop in part for the mt-2. as far as the arm mounts get the ones from new era, cuz they are meade for the mt2, the original mt has not differential in the front (2wd) i think, so the mounts are way different.

If you look on new era's web page they list the mt and mt-2 both front and rear a arm mounts as the same part number. Order the ones from tower. Dont destroy the package trying to get them out. If they dont fit send them back. I like new eras front a arm mount better though.

OH yea and for the roto starts.

I like dura trax's twin battery twin motor one. The switch has never stuck, spins the engine over way faster, and you get more starts on a set of batterys. The only down side is 2 batteries instead of one.
It comes with every thing. The back plate start shaft and starter box.

[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXHPP9[/link]

I never used a pull start but somtimes I have to really crank the roto for ages. I can imagine this to be a nightmare with a pull start. But thats mainly when its cold and proberly bad engine tuning dosn't help. I like the roto though. No probs sofar. That Dura Trax one looks Uber. lol

jpolidore am I wrong in thinking the MT2 comes with a 15t pinion and 13t was going down? Maby it comes with a 12? And maby i'll get an 11.

I'm not so keen on New eras Front Arm Mount. I dont really like the rounded metal (purple) nose. Maby a superficial reason not to buy but im also thinking you may want abit of flex in the nose (to accomadate trees and shins)? Flex in the piviot housing has got to be bad though 'cos mine has stretched and allowed the hinge pin to bend. I will definatly get the Rear Arm Mount.
And for the front i might try HPIs Hinge Pin Set. I think it puts a brace on either side of the hinge pins (one is already there). So the front would be like this: a plastic mount and plastic A-arms held by nails hinge pins, capped with metal braces. Question is will it be ard enough!?!?

And thanks for everyones help, you already saved me £££'s. I nearly just went ahead and bought expensive ally parts, in a colour I dont like, that wouldn't have even fitted once I got them across the Atlantic[X(]. Moral of story: ASK FIRST

T.O.M,
my MT-2 came witha 13t savage clutchbell, and a 52t Savage spur gear, I'm not sure everyone else's, you could just count the teeth, mine is listed that it came with a 12t. So hence my decision to go with the 11t. As far as the hinge pins go, they have a postitive and a negative side, they are very strong! (the positive) and they will not bend, hence the negative, you WILL snap A-Arms. The flip side is A-Arms are cheap. I have thought about going to the aluminum A-Arms, but, if you have an accident and I always do, something is going to give. My thought process here is break a $5 arm or bend a $30 arm? I went ahead and bought 4 sets of them from tower and let my LHS know this was a part I was going to need at some point. The amazing thing is I have not broken one since I got the replacements. Maybe its mental?? anyway here is the part listing for Tower.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFYT1&P=Z

the set up you have described is exactley what I have, I think it provides good flex and strength, I hit a curb at top speed (long story) and bent the purple brace on the rear diff. I pulled out the pliers re-shaped it and continued to bash and have been for 3 weeks now.

jpolidore:

I think it can also be attributable to driver skill. As your skills get better, you have less tendancies to break things. You can "feel" the truck an what it is doing - "Use the force young HPI Jedi". This helps with the durability.

I always suggest to people that less is more. Drive 5/10's untill you know the truck, then increase speed as your skills get better. If you can get to a track, watch other drivers and their techniques, then incorporate those into yours. When you feel you are ready, pick someone with skills a step higher then yours and try to keep up. Once you think you are better then try and pass. Once you have mastered this, you truly will have the force.

I have seen many people buy their vehicle then mash the gas - bust something - then say they hate RC and these vehicles suck. No vehicle is meant to go 45 mph into a brick wall. I also suggest that people try and fix their vehicle themselves. I have seen to many vehicles brought to the LHS, because the person has said they don't know how to fix it. You should learn your vehicle and how to keep it running.

Just my two cents - which is only worth two cents.

I only have to pull my pull starter about 4 to 5 times to crank any of my 4-nitro vehicles. If you have your motor tuned right there should not be a problem with a Roto or pull starter and they should crank right up.

If you do not use ERA a arm mount for the MT 2 YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO HAVE A BUMPER! That is why it has what you call a round nose. Evidently you do not understand what I am trying to convey to you above. Do you or do you not understand what the difference between the MT1 and MT2 A arm mounts?

46u yes I understand. The MT1 front arm mount has no bumper fixture and will not take the front gear box. The MT2 arm mount has a big fat purple bumper on it. I want the bumper, but not made from alluminium, so I will run the stock (plastic) front mounts with the hinge pin set to brace it all.
A think I will always use the stock A arms. They seem pretty strong anyway but will proberly fail if pushed. Plus I think you want abit of give there. I have back-up A-arm sets too. Did anyone try boiling the plastic parts in hot water befor assembly? I did but don't know if helped.
My driving's ok. Never driven on a track and I'm pretty sure that if there was an actual course I had to follow that my driving would be alot worse. lol. Recently, though, we've been going to a dirt BMX track with huge spines and i can hit the jumps straight most of the time. Yeah and you gotto feel the force. Zen Driving.

T.O.M.
You could always get a skid plate for the front to cover up the purple nose.

[link]http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=kmgomocsraijbpaastsfbykpmlmvuq jl&part_id=2133[/link]

Well, winter's over so i got out the truck and put it on my work bench. As i was putting the engine back on and screwing in the mounting screws, either the gear mesh was bad or the holes that the screws screwed into were improperly lined. Is this because i put in a bigger clutch bell, a 15t. please help, the weather has been very nice.


Thanks a ton!!!!!!

Beater,
yes the circumference is bigger with more teeth, so that will affect your mesh, just re-align with the old paper test and you should be good to go. How nice is nice up there in MA? i went to school in RI so I am intrested to see what nice is to you. It was 75 here in Atlanta today 80 tommorrow.... I just like to see how people from around the country view things, its very intresting.

Now I have a question for all who have been around. I put an 18ss in my MT2, and this thing has some serious power, so much I keepp snapping the radio tray mount next to the slipper assembly. the slipper is perfect, the mesh is perfect. i have broken two of these in as many days, i been using the force to drive now so no big crashes. all i can think of is just torque on the gear assmebly is causing it. now my question has anyone seen this:

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=38

and if so what do you think? I'm thinking this solves my problem. any advice will be appreciated.

Well, a few weeks ago it was like in the 30s and 20s, now its in the 60s, sunny. So, its a big nice change. I think i am just going to buy the bearings for the stock 12t ( i lost the old ones ) and put on the stock clutchbell to save me $20 on mounts. I think that will work for me right now for the time being. Also, does anyone have the aluminum upper deck, is it good and can you fit the 100cc fuel tank with it on. Any links to it would be great.

Thanks a ton!!!!!!!

jpolidore:

I have an OS in mine and have never broken that part. I also run this instead of the battery tray:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGWX7&P=7

It really stiffens the car and makes it handle more like a truggy.

thanks gran i may order one of those, i think its from the flex on jumps and stuff, its the peg right beside the spur gear for the radio tray, when it snaps then the whole thing breaks, the upper tray may fix it we shall see. one question how do you mount the battery pack? or does this piece go over the radio tray and the pack still in its original location? thanks in advance.

jpolidore:

You need to buy a flat 5 cell pack. Believe me they are worth the money. I always though alkalines are fine, but once you get a receiver pack you'll never use alkaline again.

I beat the heck out of my MT 1 Racer (came as a kit) and never broke the part you are talking about. I beat mine so bad I have to replace the body about every 3 months. I have the 100 cc tank in mine. Had to do some minor modifications but with the woven upper deck it will be harder I think. [8D]

hey 46 i am on my 2nd body now, after about 2 months, i like to ride it hard and put it up wet as they say. i will post some pics before it gets beat to hell, and yes i will post a few under the hood! I have a humppack how would i mount that with the woven graphite deck? and/ or how would i mount it to the titanium deck mentioned earlier in this thread? or does it sit in the tray and the deck go over it? this is where i am confused[sm=confused.gif]. thanks for the help. i also may need some help figuring out why i am breaking this part? could it be tourque from the brakes?

jpolidore-
Just use some wood or sheetmetal screws to secure the radio tray. I have broken 3 radio tray mounts ao I just decided to screw it! There should be a little slot where the nub broke off, just put a screw with some good sized threads in there. I haven't broken one since.