CAN ANYONE HELP WITH A PROBLEM I HAVE. WHEN I GO FULL THROTTLE MY FRONT LEFT WHEEL LEANS IN TOO MUCH (IS THAT TOE - OR SOMETHING) ANY WAY IT MEANS IT TURNS TO THE LEFT WITH OUT ME STEERING WHICH IS NATURALLY A PROBLEM. WHEN I AM GOING SLOW, IT WILL DRIVE IN A STRAIGHT LINE, HOW CAN I SORT THIS OUT? WILL ADJUSTABLE TURNBUCKLES HELP? IF SO WHERE IS BEST TO GET THEM FROM, BEARING IN MIND IM IN THE UK...
CHEERS

There's camber, and then there's toe-in. If your wheels have toe-in, they form a V when looking at your truck from overhead. Then there's camber, where your tires are leaning in towards the truck when you're looking at it straight-on (lying on the ground, for example)

Toe-in
/----\
|
|
|----|

Camber

/------\

Are you sure that the tire is leaning in, or could it be something else? I only ask because it's possible that your tire is starting to come off of the rim, and it's expanding more than the other one, causing it to steer in the other direction. There could also be water inside of your tire, causing greater expansion. If it's turning to the left, check the right tire in this case.

If that's not it, make sure your diffs are working properly, make sure both tires turn easily and equally (check by spinning the rear tires or the clutch bell) and inspect your turnbuckles and their connections. Make sure they pivot sorta-freely, and lastly, put your MT2 on a table and push it down to the ground in the middle. If it leans to one side rather than going down evenly, there may be a suspension problem.

OK, FROM WHAT YOU SAY IT WOULD BE CAMBER, AFTER WATCHING IT DRIVE HEAD ON TOWARDS ME, THE WHOLE BODY LIFTS SLIGHTLY ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE. THE RIGHT WHEEL IS FLAT ON THE ROAD BUT THE LEFT RISES SO IS LEFT LIKE |------\ DOES THIS MAKE SENSE? WOULD THIS BE A SUSPENSION PROBLEM THEN?

Hay i got my new heavy duity diff gears the other day. It comes with everything that you need. The gears, the drive cup, the bolt that holds the cup on and some diff shims. These gears are pretty heavy duity compaired to the 5 dollar stock ones.
[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXJYM2[/link]

Does it come with the HD drive cup as well or is it just another standard one?

ejmovies:

Sounds like the screw in the C-hub has come out of the knuckle. These usually can only be taken out and put back in once, then they are forever backing out. If you ever do one hopup to your MT2, get the aluminum front turnbuckles.

Hi guys.

I have a problem and a question.
The problem is that my 18ss has chewed up the crappy little needle bearing in the clutch bell (part b046) it's the bearing that sits between the clutch shoes and the screw that holds the bell on. I think this is a really poor part and wanted to fit a bell off a big block motor as they have 2 metal bearings that are more hard wearing and also stop the bell from sliding forwards and backwards on the crank. The question is... can you get a 13 or 14 tooth big block clutch bell as the smallest i have in my bits box is a 15 and it doesn't quite fit and even if it did would kill my acceleration.

Just to clarify thing this is a MT2 that has been upgraded with a .18ss as i dont know if they fixed this problems on the new 18ss kit.

Thanks for your help

You can buy,
2 5x8mm flanged bearings http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD111&P=7
and 2 5x8mm un-flanged bearing http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD109&P=ML
and that will work out great, you'll still use the standard clutch bells.

Thanks for the quick reply. Just to clarify the point do you mean i should run a flanged bearing on the inside of the clutch housing then 2 normal bearings in the middle and than another one of the flanged ones on the outside?

yes you are right, with the flanged parts on the ends.

assemble like so,

Thanks buddy i will get straight on it.

I love these forums everyone is so helpfull and.....sniff sniff................. I LOVE YOU GUYS!!!!!

(Not that kinda love) you know what i mean!

ChriX

Yea i believe they are the heavy duity drive cups. They are the silver ones, not the standard black ones. It also comes with some shims too. Every thing that you need except for the grease.

Hey guys, I am having a bit of a problem fitting my O.S. 18 CVR-X in my MT2... I am using the engine mount from HPI 86045 (the purple one). The holes do not seem to align very well. When I put the engine mount in line and the holes are where they are suposed to be, the flywheel is touching the brake disk.[&:]

So my questions are; Do any of you guys use that engine mount with this motor? Or did you use a different one?

I thought it would be a direct drop in.[sm=confused.gif]

Anyways, waiting to hear from you guys.

Bruno

bruno, have you mounted the spur gear cover back on yet? the brake disk is not secured on the d-hub. if am insulting you i am sorry i have done this, that is why i ask. but anyway check that.

Lol, no offense taking, we are all here to help each other. I haven't taking the brake disk apart, or moved it in any ways. I use a different flywheel then the original, this one;
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXESB3&P=7

I do not beleive that it's the problem, it's not a big flywheel.

Tks anyways, waiting to hear more solutions.

Bruno

Bruno, I am using this mount,
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXN373&P=7
I can't say much about yours but Gran is using that one!
It was pretty much a direct drop in for me, although I had to trim a piece (see below)

BTW I did not use the extra mount spacers that came with the engine!

the spot I highlighted in red had to be trimed off on mine!

Gran, have you tried flipping your rear A arms?
I thought id ask you since you are into racing,
it will give a shorter wheel base not sure it it effects the handling much though, maybe better turning radious!

Bruno:

I use this flywheel:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM759&P=7

Your flywheel is 39.88mm in diameter and mine is 40mm so I agree that the flywheel is not the problem. I also use that motor mount and it lines up perfect with the holes in the chassis. Maybe its a bad motor mount? I been using this motor mount for a long time and love it. It is fully adjustable, unlike the old motor, and can really help in the fine tuning of the spur mesh for better running.

Vectorlab:

No, I have not flipped the A-arms. The MT2 has a pretty good turning radius as is, but it is a good idea. The biggest thing I have been fighting on mine is the rear ends tendency to want to jump over tyhe front. It is the oddest thing, but the truck will hookup great, takeoff down the back stretch, then hit a little bump and wham the rear end is in the air. I think it is due to the huge weight tranfer that occurs during excelleration is compressing the springs to the max. Then I don't have enough movement left in the shock to take the bump. I have been able to control the vehicle, but am still looking for an answer. I have put heavier springs, lighter springs, heavier shock oil, lighter shock oil, 1 hole shock inserts, 2 hole shock inserts, aluminum shocks - but I am trying a new thing. I have the CF rear shock mount, so I laid the shocks down like the front ones, put the shock on the lowest hole possible. The front end works so good on this vehicle I finally figured I should emulate it on the back. I am running it tonight, I'll post an update

Just push it on a bit harder, it will go on. Mine was quite tight too.

Hmmm I am wondering if it's my flywheel-cutchbell set up on the crank shaft that's wrong. That could be the reason why it doesn't fit.

Grantothismo,

Is that the engine your using? What kind of pilot shaft are you using? The stock one? Can you tell me what set up you are using such has bearings and clutchbell, shims?

Tks,
Bruno

Guys, any of you had a prblem with the breack disc being too thin?? I hve just bought a Vented fibre disc and installed it but it is bout half as fat as stock, so now there is litterly no breaks. I think i cn sort it but did any one else have this prob or was i sold the wrong disc??

EJ, I still have the stock disc. Can't you just decrease the space between the break pad and shoes by tightening the screws?

cool,
yeah that is what i thought but the screws are those special ones which only let you tighten them so much, so even wen fully tight it does push enough. i did ry using some o-rings but they didnt really do a lot. will have to see if i can fit a bolt there instead.
Anyone else have any ideas??

Bruno:

Here is the engine that I am running:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGGP7&P=ML item 11880. I am using the stock collet with two washers on the stock shaft then the flywheel. I am also using the fiber disk brake with no problems. Here is the washer that I am using:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...99&FVPROFIL=++ part Z699

I am also using the stock 12t clutch bell and spindle bearings.


ejmovies:

Try sleeving the brake shaft with some tubing, metal or fuel tubing, until it engages as you like. On mine I left the fuel tube on because I liked how it made the brakes work. Just an Idea.