RC10 GT team w/ o.s. CVR .12 I am having trouble with the rear wheels spinning even if i set the truck on the ground it runs away on me and if the brakes are applied it kills the motor. I have checked the shoes and although they are a lil dark dont seem to be burnt. I am also having control issues. If on a loose track it is almost impossible to keep it pointed straight under any throttle watsoever. The only way to keep it straight is by letting it idle up to speed then very gently applying the throttle....even the slightest bit too much and it fishtails like crazy and spins out. Any help on this topic would be appreciated. Thanks.

Your throttle/brake linkage needs adjusting. With the truck not running, take off the air-cleaner and look at how far open the carb bore is. Now apply brakes. See how it closed? You need to turn the screw that opens/closes the bore (idle screw) clockwise to open it up a bit, then re-trim your radio. This way it won't close when you hit the brakes....

Nah thats not the problem have been there and done that. When brakes are applied the carb is still open the correct amount. I have made all the carb adjustments and in fact have it idling a bit too high to keep it running during braking. Even with the idle set high when the brakes are applied too much or for too long it stalls....but its not from the carb closing too much , that im sure of. Thanks

The next suspect in the lineup is the clutch spring(s). When it or they get weak the shoes engage WAY too early.

I have a 2 shoe stock clutch now which i believe is not supposed to have a spring. If the clutch is bad...(staying engaged or engaging too early) would this cause the motor to stall while braking and poor handling during take off? Anyone? Thanks.

Absolutley!

Before my buddy ditced his stock 2-shoe setup in his Evader, that was how he knew he had to replace the spring (which failed MUCH quicker than the shoes). If you start it holding it up and it only runs if the back tires are spinning... it is the most likely culprit.

When we were out bashing if his went bad he just had to keep driving it. It worked great from a roll right through top speed and he had to constantlyu keep it moving (going in circles etc.), but died if you locked the brakes or drove it too slowly.

In a 2-shoe setup, the spring stretches around the outside of both shoes.

So would you say i should have a spring on this type of clutch then? I just assumed it didn't use a spring since it didn't come with one...and i haven't read anything about a spring in the manual. Thanks.

Unless it is a slider, it HAS to have spring(s). If it has 2 shoes, the spring is a band around them. If it is a slider, it needs adjusting.

Take a picture and post it here if you would like. Remember, you take the pic on your end, use the upload images at the bottom of the box you type in, not the image button up top, that is for linking to images from other sites or hosted places on the web.

Yea people shouldn't post unless they know what they're talking about, you'll just confuse people. The rc10-gt doesn't use springs, it never has, it probably never will. Its just got two little shoes stuck on two little pegs that flop around aimlessly but work like a charm So anyway mascun i'm having the exact same problem you are. My wheels are spinning at idle and if i brake it kills the engine. Its not imediate, takes a few seconds, but its getting worse. I figured my shoes were worn out so i popped off the bell and took a look and they look OK but i think they are still worn. I think over time they loose some weight little by little (all the fine dust when you take your bell off, thats your clutch shoes wearing) and after a while they'll become too light and will stick at lower and lower RPMs. Eventually it will lead to idleing wheel spinnage just like you and I have. I ordered some new shoes which should be in tomorrow. I'm 99% posative this will solve my problems, and if it does i'll let you know!

That's kinda what i was figuring also and have already purchased new shoes and bell off ebay....as far as control i'm not sure if this is the clutch or a whole different problem. Are you having control issues when throttling up also or is it just the stalling while braking

Well i USED to have the spinning out problems... well anyway i never noticed how bald my tires actually were (they looked ok) until i started running on the new track in town. Its just hard packed sand right now but it will be clay in a couple weeks. Anyway with my old tires you had to be real easy on the throttle or it would fish-tale and spin out, just like whats going on with you. Try some new tires! Did wonders for me. I can point it down the straights and lay on the gas and it tracks straight like an arrow. And now it corners like its on rails, like driving a whole new truck. So yea when you get your clutch fixed give some new rubber a try and see if that helps. I'm running proline bow-tie t's.

See, you talk smack, but then you say something stupid. Hi pot, I'm kettle. The lighter the shoes are, they later they will engage and with less force. Why else would people drill out (lighten) their shoes? It isn't about what your opinion on this subject is either; it is physics.

I started to lay out all of the equations to calculate inertia (getting the shoe to leave rest and contact the bell) and centripetal force required to hold it there. But it would probably be lost on you. Also as acceleration is added, the the inertia of the shoes increases proportionally (Inertia = Mass x Acceleration^2), and so does the holding strength of the shoe. Therefore the "more worn" the shoe (ie. it has lost some mass) you can clearly see that it's inertia is reduced. As this inertia reduces, the speed you need to get it to engage will increase proportionally. Again, therefore the lighter the shoe, the later it will engage.

I make the suggestion about the spring because who on earth would put in a decently strong mill like a .12CVR and leave the stock clutch, and we have not been told what is there.

All right all right touche... didn't mean any disrespect before, and i guess i don't know what i'm talking about. I was pretty sure a lighter shoe would grap less like you say, but would do it at lower rpm's. No physics eq you could ever dream up would be beyond me, i really enjoyed it in school, but its been a while since i've applied anything practically. I was just really hoping my shoes being warn slightly would be the cause of my problems because its a simply fix. Any other ideas? Since i'm getting new shoes anyway i'll try trimming my old ones down, but i just don't see how that would help. My shoes deffinatly haven't gotten heavier over the years. Thanks for setting me straight.

Well if they wear to the point where they actually length, they could be binding; that's possible. Also use some emery cloth inside the bell if you feel any rough spots that could snag the shoes (although this is unlikely). With no springs, what keeps the shoes off of the bell at idle? They must rub some, does the CB get kind of hot on that thing?

Maybe this is a good time to consider dumping the stock clutch setup anyhow, replacements are inexpensive and will provide real-world improvements.

Good luck both of you...

I had the same problem with fishtailing and all that, so I got some new Dirt Hawgs. Well, since I got my new Hitec steering servo (it was glitching, I have another thread about it on here) and fixed it, when I accelerate it starts to go left. I adjusted my trim so that it goes straight at low speeds, and if I over-adjust, it goes right at low speeds, and relatively straight at high speeds. Very annoying. I can deal with it for now, but I would appreciate any feedback.

My brakes stink too, actually. They stop the car eventually, and I have a bit of idle-drag. I am a bit lost sometimes when it comes to serovs and trim and all that. Any suggestions?

Wow,
I'm afraid to jump in here but what the heck

If you apply the brakes and it kills the engine immediately that's most likely a clutch bind
if it takes a few seconds then that most likely is a tuning issue

Best bet on the GT clutch is to upgrade to the MIP clutch and take about 2-3 links off the spring, that will give you a nice tight clutch and the rears shouldn't roll at idle. I'd run it trailling, without the weights

The stock shoes are ok, but not great. for $11 the MIP clutch is worth every penny

If you think the tires are good and you should have traction try loosening the slipper a bit, that might help the spinning out.

Good luck

I have brand new RTR tires which i got off ebay on it and run a hardpack track which after a few races tears a lil of the surface off making it hardpack with a thin coat of loose on top. Like i say although the tires are RTR they are brand new and wont grab at all on this track unless it's just watered down but that only lasts a few laps until it loosens up again. I've adjusted toe-in, camber, shock travel all to no avail...which is why i'm thinking it's the clutch although that doesn't seem logical to me. I will definately try the slipper and have a few different sets of tires on order now including stubbie T and fuzzie T's but the fuzzie T's look to me almost exactly like the RTR's....but someone suggested it so i am giving them a try. I also have a brand new clutch on order and will see if that helps but may just go ahead and get the MIP and be sure it's ok. Thanks.

Are you guys suggesting the MIP 4n1 or something else? Also will the flywheel need to be replaced, or is that included with the mip kit. I've got a pull start right now if that makes a difference.

Yes, the 4n1 is the one I'm refering too.

The stock bell/flywheel will work,but a little grinding down is required or make the MIP shoes fit the stock AE bell/flywheel. It's been so long sice I built a GT I can't remember exactly what I had to shave down, but I remember it was something.

It works great once you get it set up

Hmmm sounds interesting.... lol anyone have any other input before i start any grinding?

you dont have to grind, i used pliers and just cut the bars but the instructions say you can use a hammer and hit them in till theyre flush with the back of the flywheel

Seams to me I had to sand down the MIP shoes a little last time because it was a little too thick for the AE bell. I forgot about shortening the pins. Oh well it's been over a year since I worked on the GT
No clutch isues with my MST

If you go with the MIP
Don't forget to take a couple links off the spring, it really helps the truck jump off the line by engaging at a higher RPM while allowing the truck to free wheel at lower RPMs. This Mod really makes the clutch work better.

Good luck guys!!

Thanks i'll deffinatly have to get one then.

I got the new shoes in today and put them on. It seems to be much better but the engine still stalls unless the idle is set a bit too high. It'll work but i think i'm still gonna try the MIP clutch. Now that i can at least brake i found out the brakes are not working too well even if i move the brake linkage nut...it rolls to a stop and continues to idle but i cannot get it to lock up the rear tires like it should. I'm gonna hafta take that apart and give it a lookin at...( and maybe a talkin to ) LOL