I read this on an earlier post and it describes exactly the problem I have with my Evader BX. Is anyone else having this type of problem? It starts off with the engine becoming hard to start when warm, then it will die whenever the engine returns to idle and be extremely hard to start, next it will die when returning to idle and be impossible to start, finally it won't start no matter what. I am familiar with the carb adjustments but continue to have problems. The engine runs great a little lean but overheats. Do I need to send this back for repair or replacement already. Do I need a engine rebuild after such a short time?

DJevader

first thing i would do is put your carb setting back to the default settings, and turn the high speed in 1/8 and turn the low speed in 1/16, because the engine is broke in already. the setting are, high speed 2 and 1/2 out from fully closed, and the low speed is flush with the brass nut and then turn in a half turn. do this and if it still won't idle then more than likely your motor is wore out. don't fret. you have a 2 year warranty on the engine, go to hobby services online and it will tell u the rest. the reason your motor is doing this is because the sleeve is wore out, and when the engine get warm it loses compression and won't run or prime fuel for that matter. if u wait about 30 minutes it cranks up is a good sign of sleeve wear. the best thing u can do is send it in get it fixed for free, and when u get it back if u don't have one get a temp gauge and don't let the engine get above 250 degrees. i wore my first engine out the same way i had it set more to racing setting and burned it up at about 3/4 of a gallon, but it ran great though. that is the proper carb setting according to O.S. engines, not duratrax, and i trust them much better than duratrax. also don't mess with the low speed needle much, if u break it in and it runs great and has good take off, leave the low speed ALONE!!!!!! and u should be fine. good luck.

Thanks ALOT we have been working on this car for 2 weeks and i just want it to freekin run.

DJevader

Yep....

A friend of mine that was new to the hobby bought the Evader ST, as tower has it aimed at beginners. It was supposed to be EVERYTHING he needed to go run.... in a roundabout way it was... The engine comes with an airfilter that is not oiled. The manual doesn't tell you ANYWHERE to oil it. The instructional video that it comes with doesn't tell you ANYWHERE within to oil it either.... If you are a newbie you aren't just BORN with the knowledge. Their manuals still, are unchanged. His engine sucked in mad dirt the first day and died after about 1.5 gallons... when his sleeve was shot, it acted the same as yours.

You may have a problem with your front crankcase bearing located near the carb. If its binding or failing it will cause the carb to become too hot and the feul will boil before it gets into the crankcase. An egine with this problem may start up well cold and have its needles set correctly but but as the bearing overheats it causes the mixture to lean out as the feul starts to boil before it gets through the carb.

When re-starting hot, remove the air filter and look to see if the feul is bubbling as it enters the carb.

Dont ask me how I know about this.

Being a total newb @ this great hobby and screwing around with this thing for a week I think I finally came to terms with the DTX.18 is a STONE But before I scrap this piece I was wondering one thing that EdsWords spoke of that kinda might apply to mine. I have noticed after the initial 5 min. of fun and two steps before ready to chuck the thing in the weeds I'm seeing small air bubbles traveling from the carb back toward the tank.Could this be the bearing deal, or is this a normal thing that can happen to any motor.I actually believe though the motor is done or near done from the simple fact that when I first start cranking when cold I can feel a difference in the compression when it gets warm.Would it be safe to say that you should be able to pick the car up with the pull start no matter if the engine is warm or not. If that last statement is false what would be a more exact way of checking compression.BTW I bought the car used it had around 3/4 gallon through it. A big Thanx to all that post here on these boards you all have been a great help to me getting started.Now if I could just get the thing to run longer than 5 min
maybe I could learn to drive[:-]

Bubbles back from the carb are either a leak or the fuel boiling.... It can also get that hot from merely being lean.

Also, it is normal fot it to be REALLY loose when it is up to temp. My BB .27 on Savage is a bear when cold, but turns over REALLY easily when warm. Also many engines are very difficult to restart when warm/hot.

Thanks ALOT I really think this is my problem. And I do see air bubbles in my fuel line before it stalls!? After working on this for two weeks I was ready to send this thing into the shop and have them deal with it, because it is still under warrenty.Is this going to be complicated or expensive to repear ? Should I still send it in ?

Thanks soooo much,
DJevader

If your Evader is relatively new and under warrentee I would contact Duratrax directly. I have read positive posts on this board about Duratrax repairing / replacing faulty engines under warrentee.

I think I will do that, Thanks!!!

Try this first. Get some new fuel line; not that cheap stiff crap either.... replace all of your lines and use small tie-wraps at EVERY line end (e.g. at the carb inlet, fuel outlet from tank, BOTH sides of your fuel filter if you have one inline) and see how it does. If you see bubbles coming from the carb after it goets hot those bubbles will further lean the mixture causing it to get much hotter much quicker...

I dont really no how old your motor is but it sounds like either a old motor or one that wasnt broken in correctly either way sounds like P/S time. RED

due you really cant read its like on the 2nd or 3rd page you blind idiot!!!

For someone with such poor reading, English and typing skills, you are hard pressed to call someone an idiot.

1. The truck wasn't mine.

2. After a tank or 3 that he ran (I was running my ST at the same time) I saw that his filter had no oil. He is not a child, and from your post alone, I can easily deduce that he is more intelligent than you.

3. It is NOWHERE in the manual. he told me that it wasn't and I didn't buy it... So we went back through it and it was not. Undoubtedly Duratraxx sent MANY with this glaring omission as when he called, as soon as he told them what happened, (no oil and no mention of it) they immeadiately offered him another engine.

4. Perhaps read everything next time you feel the need to open your mouth.

i just got my evader st back from hobby services repair shop. my car was under warranty and they fixed things that were not even under warranty, now thats good customer service. i broke the engine in with no problems and it runs great. u will have some air bubbles in the fuel line no matter what. if you have alot of bubbles than u likely have a leak, the backplate gasket , head gasket, or carb o-ring, but before i would start ordering all these gaskets i would take the head off and pull the sleeve out and look and see if their is a copper looking ring around the inside of the sleeve were it has wore through the finish , if u do than it is time for a rebuild.

THank you for all you posts they are greatly appricated! I plan on buying a Wasp .18 for $115 with just as much if not more power. The Problen with the DTX .18 is the piston sleeve is junk and plan on having this problem every 3/4 gallon of fuel. To read more I will do a seperate Post

The piston and sleeve really isnt junk. The break in instructions the truck comes with are way too lean. If you didnt, you need to follow the break in instructions that were made by O.S., the makers of the engine. I got 4 and a half gallons of fuel through my first piston and sleeve. With a proper break in, your stock engine will run great.

Thanks!!!!!!!! Do you know what the factory settings are? Why would they do that???????

I have a dtx evader with .18 engine,i got my son for christmas.The problem we are having is after starting the buggy,the rare wheel spins fast continuosly without pulling on the throttle when we place the buggy on the track it shuts off,please help

Sounds like a broken clutch spring. Get a tower hobbies st-15 spring, and it will last much longer.

when i start my nitro evader st it just throttle's its own very fast and makes a loud noise.whats the problem?

Make sure the carb is only open 1-2mm and not half way or something.

i'll do that.

I have been having problems with my Nitro evader st .18 engine as well.

il get it so it starts and idles fine, but when i take off, it will bog out before hitting top speed.

then il adjust it so it runs perfect, il drive around for about 20-30 seconds and the engine will stall..
then it wont start.
so il adjust it so it starts, and it will run and idle fine.... Back to the top^^

and just keep doin that loop.

any help on tuning it properly?

I have the same problem.. hard to start and hard to tune after three gallon, no more compression. Send the engine and some other broken parts back to Duratrax. Two and half week later ,I got new parts back ,new piston/sleeve, GREAT SERVICE!!! Iam ready to go..

PS Thanks to all the members!!! Great Info!!