I have an OS 12 cvr in my GT and I love the engine. I am thinking however of getting the cvrx, the same engine only pull start. I just like the idea of having the pull start and being so handy to start as opposed to carting my starter and 12 v battery. I was going to get a starter box but I still like the idea of a pull start. I was wondering will there be any difference in performanca and any major handling/speed issues??

Thanks for the help

yah pull start slows down the engine a very little bit do to the drag of the pullstart but i personally pefer pull start

I prefer pull start...just slap on the igniter and go...and the drag is minimal

pull start here. So convenient to us bashers.

bashersull start
racers: starter box

pull starts are good but any will eventually break the pull starter that came on my st-15 broke the first day i had it running i use a yank eliminator and a 12 volt ryobi drill some people say that there bad but iv never had problems with mine the things you have to remember with it is put it on the shaft and then tighten the drill on it then take it off and run it to make sure it doesnt have any wobble that way it wont get misalined and tear up wen you go to start it and if youve run it and it shuts off and you have to start it again always clean the shaft off before you put it on there that way it wont get any dirt in it and finnaly about every 2 weeks or so you will want to clean it out with a paper towell and alcohol and then applay some one way bearing lube because the alcohol will dry up the lube thats already in it thats about it if you do that it works great every time oh and dont forget to keep the batteries charged on the drill if it gets to low it wont be able to start it.

Pull starts rob 10% of your engines hp and also robs rpms. Plus if your lazy not havin to pull a pull start is nice.

exelent point oh yeah about that yank eliminator your not supposed to run for more than 5 seconds at a time.

i love my starter box on cold days

hey your from florida weres ovideo.

I seriously doubt that. There's no reason for a properly made and lubricated one-way bearing to pull 10% of the power. Sure you'll lose a *little* bit, but I would be surprised if it were more than 2-3%, if that much.

I'll take pull start anyday... Less junk to haul around, more reliable starting IMO, and easier. The only time my engine takes more than 3 pulls to start is if it's extremely cold.

you live in florida...how the heck do you have cold days?![sm=confused.gif]

Thats what the mags that dyno test say... 10%.... Of course I have no way to verify this but the loss on the top-side of the RPM band is slightly noticeable. The drag force is exponential and rises with the RPM...

I have lots of engines and seemingly start all of them differently [&:] I won't argue about less to haul around but keep using pullstarters for a year and then come back and talk about reliability; they all break over time. On the other hand I start my Savage with the roto-start and the 6cell battery lasts like 2 months or more, it's insane. My roto-start has never broken nor am I enough of a noob to tear up a one-way bearing with it. I start my GT with an airplane starter with a rubber donut adapter. Just bump the flywheel through the chassis like a starter box. At 24.99 for the hand starter and donut, it's nearly as cheap as a pullstarter and it will outlast your truck. Again, on the other hand, I have gone through LOTS of pullstarters. Even if you don't pull more than 9 inches or so out, it is still going to break before the other options.... and it WILL break....

I hear good things about the Sullivan Tiger Drive also, and those guys make a backplate for damn near every engine...

I'm still doubtful, but I don't care enough to do any research on it or pull out the physics book, so ok.

And it takes what, 5 minutes to fix? I had mine completely apart the other night for the first time (had to reverse the one way bearing to put a wrench on it getting the flywheel nut off when I put my MIP clutch on) and it didn't take much longer than that.
How do you manage to get 9" out anyway? Most of my pulls are 6" or less, and I probably have 20" of cord, even after the ~4" I lost the other night.

Starter Boxes also make good car stands too. Pull starts add another thing with moving parts that can break, or at the least, just cause headache's.

Another thing too, i'm pretty sure not all engines come in pull start form. I've got a Novarossi Top in my XXXNT, and that doesn't come in a pull start. Should I have bought a lesser engine that was cheaper to turn over, or invest in something thats gonna last me ??

Also, lugging those heavy ol' starter boxes builds character

Dude, how are you gonna fix a BROKEN SPRING? I'll tell you, you are gonna go BUY ANOTHER PULLSTART.

I don't care if you pull 4 inches eventually that spring will fail and for one reson. There is a spot (by nature of design) in the spring that receives a disproportionate amount of stress, usually near where it tucks into the housing. This point begins to fatigue much more rapidly than the rest of the spring. It IS going to break, and it will do several times while your electric starters will not. I'm not talking about a starter box with motors that need to have their brushes and springs replaced either, but rather similar setups to what I mentioned above.

I fixed my broken spring by heating the metal and bending it into an approximation of its former shape. The heat lets it bend without losing its springiness & My pullstarter is ready to rock and roll again.

It only broke after I seriously abused (my first ever) nitro pullstarter during the engine's break-in period. And yea, it broke in exactly the spot you described

Keep a spare spring. [8D]

So link a "spare spring", since I've never seen one for sale.... ...but this is my argument anyway... You don't need spare anythings to use the electrics I was talking about.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUP91&P=0

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the fact that in general pull start engines need to be mounted on the chassis higher than a non-pull start (read starter box required) engine. As an avid racer, the lower the center of gravity the better.

Well then I'll give you that, BUT my argument is your claim to less maintenance...

Additionally another search for "starting spring" ONLY returns springs for Associated 15s and 21s... which btw, few people (even the RTR guys will ditch that engine eventually) have...

The electrics are not only easier (I don't wanna hear it, my .28 on my Sav is pull start that starts in 1 tug after it's primed... but the electrics are easier if nothing else th espeed in priming) but are in fact less work to keep up.

...And I'm done with this thread. Keep your pullstart.