Rush Evo suspension
#1
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From: bob,
LA, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi,
I've bought some purple springs for the back of my rush evo, but the back end still bottoms out a bit. does anyone know the weight of the standard shock oil in the RTR shox?
I'm going to order some Schumacher shock oil (40w?) will this stiffen them up a bit over the originals, or do I need a heavier weight oil?
Cheers,
G
I've bought some purple springs for the back of my rush evo, but the back end still bottoms out a bit. does anyone know the weight of the standard shock oil in the RTR shox?
I'm going to order some Schumacher shock oil (40w?) will this stiffen them up a bit over the originals, or do I need a heavier weight oil?
Cheers,
G
#2
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
The back end of the Rush does need sorting out.
Ditch the HPI foams and go with Pro-Line firm foams if you notice the rear tyres sagging. Get the HPI 10mm Teflon Piston set and have a play with diffrent pistons. I can tell you that purple springs and 60weight oil with standard pistons is way too stiff, so don't try that! Don't worry too much about the chassis bottoming out, it's suppose to to some extent. If you had the rear suspension set up to elimate bottoming, it would be way too stiff and the car would handle terribly.
Ditch the HPI foams and go with Pro-Line firm foams if you notice the rear tyres sagging. Get the HPI 10mm Teflon Piston set and have a play with diffrent pistons. I can tell you that purple springs and 60weight oil with standard pistons is way too stiff, so don't try that! Don't worry too much about the chassis bottoming out, it's suppose to to some extent. If you had the rear suspension set up to elimate bottoming, it would be way too stiff and the car would handle terribly.
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From: Blair County, PA
I had a similar problem on my Rush Evo. I installed the longer HPI MT2 rear shocks with the blue springs and that seemed to help out a lot. The Rush Evo sits lower to the ground than most other stadium trucks, so when going off into rough stuff or attatcking large jumps, I tuned the suspension so the rear 'A' amrs were above level.
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From: bob,
LA, UNITED KINGDOM
Thanks Guys,
I'll stick with the 40w for now and see if there's any improvement. If not i'll put some teflon pistons in 'em.
G
I'll stick with the 40w for now and see if there's any improvement. If not i'll put some teflon pistons in 'em.
G
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From: Blair County, PA
Wright - I'll save you the triouble. I tried that on my Rush too and that didn't help either. It just made the rear end too stiff. The MT2 Shocks are about 15 dollars (US) and worth it:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFYP7&P=Z
Tucker, The RC10Gt is doing well. The racing season has ended due to the cold weather. In order to compete with the guys at my track I am going to need a better engine. The AE engine just lacks punch, which is one of the T-15 strong pionts.
As far as the 'legendary' RC10GT durability, Don't believe it! I have broken a front axle and a rear bulkhead. The parts are not expensive, but people posting here would have you believe GT's never break. Thats not true. Its pretty much what I expected. The plastic parts on the Rush are so beefy its not likely they will ever break, but the GT parts are made be light for racing.
And the shocks leaked like a sieve right out of the box until I rebuilt them. It's still a nice truck. I hope to get a better engine this winter and then be ready for the competition next year.
Hows your Rush holding up?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFYP7&P=Z
Tucker, The RC10Gt is doing well. The racing season has ended due to the cold weather. In order to compete with the guys at my track I am going to need a better engine. The AE engine just lacks punch, which is one of the T-15 strong pionts.
As far as the 'legendary' RC10GT durability, Don't believe it! I have broken a front axle and a rear bulkhead. The parts are not expensive, but people posting here would have you believe GT's never break. Thats not true. Its pretty much what I expected. The plastic parts on the Rush are so beefy its not likely they will ever break, but the GT parts are made be light for racing.
And the shocks leaked like a sieve right out of the box until I rebuilt them. It's still a nice truck. I hope to get a better engine this winter and then be ready for the competition next year.
Hows your Rush holding up?
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From: Derby, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi again,
Just wondering for the future, what shocks would you go for - MT2 threaded shocks or the evader's threaded shocks?
What engine where you thinking of going for ed?
Just wondering for the future, what shocks would you go for - MT2 threaded shocks or the evader's threaded shocks?
What engine where you thinking of going for ed?
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From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Personally I wouldn't go for threaded shocks. The c-clip pre-load system is far more convenient, that's why all top spec off road cars (all top spec buggies, RC10GT) use it.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Just my 2 cents worth.
#9
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From: Blair County, PA
I agree with Tucker. Threaded shocks are overrated. I had them on my Evader and it takes a while to get both sides to be the same. With pretentioners its the exact same on both sides with no hassle.
I think I am going to get an .12 OS CV-R. I have also head good things about the Fantom .12. I havent made a final decision yet. I can take my time deciding because we can't race for 3-4 months.
I think I am going to get an .12 OS CV-R. I have also head good things about the Fantom .12. I havent made a final decision yet. I can take my time deciding because we can't race for 3-4 months.
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From: LAKELAND,
FL
another thing you can do is get some springs that dont have paint on them and heat them up until there red hot with a micro torch or somthing and then then submerge them in ice water that will harden them up do that a couple times.



