Nitro mt dubble engine.
#31
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From: San Juan Capistrano,
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the cars are facing different ways so they will open and close the same.... just looks a little hacky and messy to me... also no brakes yet and not engough room....
#32
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From: Campbelltown, AUSTRALIA
Ohh well it doesnt really matter what it looks like...aslong as it works Right?
Keep up the good work matie. Hopefully when all tests are ok, you will post a video of some sort on a website? That would be sweet to see this truck in action.
Good Luck!
Keep up the good work matie. Hopefully when all tests are ok, you will post a video of some sort on a website? That would be sweet to see this truck in action.
Good Luck!
#33
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well the carbs do open because one is spun around. The whole carb linkage wasent my idea, but it works good. I drove it today for about 10 secconds and it was fast. Then I had some reciever troble and once I fixed that I had pull start trobble. hope to sort moast of the problems tomarrow.
#34
ORIGINAL: hondapride59
yea looks like to me when he puts a little gas one engine will give the gas and the otehr will do nothing
yea looks like to me when he puts a little gas one engine will give the gas and the otehr will do nothing
#37
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ran it yesterday. wicked hard to get both running at once. just needs some tuning. with both engines way out of tune, off the start it will roast all 4 tires for about 10 ft before it flips over backwards. This was on wet payvment. all I need to do now is a cupple little adjustments and I will be all set. Thing is wicked fast tho. The spurr gear already has some teeth missing. Cant imagine what the diffs look like. oh and I do have the gear mesh for the clutch and the spurr correct.
#39
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UPDATES: I took this truck out form under the bench today. Dusted it off and ordered some parts form tower for it. I started on a longer and wider chassis for it. I plan to now use 2 separate servos for the two engines throttle. the other set up was just not working correctly. The new chassis is thicker aluminum and roughly 2 in longer and 2 in wider. Pics tommarow. And I agree my english is a little bad.
#41
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Here are some pics with a rough layout of how things are going to be. I had the hardest time finding a dogbone that was the proper lenth for my longer chassis.
#42
Well I think your intentions are good and you have the right idea, however, you might consider upgrading your differential. And as for your spur gear, definitely needs to be upgraded to either aluminum or titanium. I have titanium tranny parts on my max ST that has a .21. (made them myself in my Mill/Lathe) I would suggest making your own parts but I doubt you have the right equipment for it. Not many people do.
#43
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I actually do have the right machinery to make the parts, mill, lathe, surface grinder. However I dont have the knowlege to go with it. I am however learing. Here is some pics of the chassis with some components bolted to it. I drilled with the holes with a brigeport mill. I need to find a body that will fit right also.
#44
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From: Coraopolis,
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ORIGINAL: mittimj
I actually do have the right machinery to make the parts, mill, lathe, surface grinder. However I dont have the knowlege to go with it. I am however learing. Here is some pics of the chassis with some components bolted to it. I drilled with the holes with a brigeport mill. I need to find a body that will fit right also.
I actually do have the right machinery to make the parts, mill, lathe, surface grinder. However I dont have the knowlege to go with it. I am however learing. Here is some pics of the chassis with some components bolted to it. I drilled with the holes with a brigeport mill. I need to find a body that will fit right also.
i think what he meant by rigth equipment was different tool bits and endmills and whatnot also because u need a variaty of things to do that and gears are a little complicated...
truck looks better and seems to be less corwded with teh longer and wider chassis...for a body try looking at a 1/8 mt body...migth get u what u need but u might have trouble finding one to fit cuz it looks a lot longer
but try getting any gears u can in aluminum/ti...if u cant get them than buy tons of replacements...i'm glad gts have every gear u want in some kind of metal....
#45
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here is the link for the ring gear I should use. but the thing is just so ecpensive. I think I will strip a cupple of stock gears off first.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTB54&P=Z
and here is the stock replacement http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB48
seems a little pricy. and there is no way that I could make that.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTB54&P=Z
and here is the stock replacement http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB48
seems a little pricy. and there is no way that I could make that.
#49
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True. I just got done making up a list of parts that I need form tower. It came out to like 80$, all that little stuff adds up.
#50
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From: Middletown,
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i know.....................my RC10GT is now at 450 dollars and still counting[&:] the diff mounts are pretty much the same between buggies with 4 mounts. One on each corner. The gears are all steel inside and made to take some serious abuse. Check out the diff prices on ebay! the center diffs are steel too. This would eliminate alot of problems now and down the road man.


