RC10GT Engine Starting Question- HELP!
#1
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From: , CO
I have only had my rc10gt for about a month and I have been starting it by removing the air filter and putting a little nitro fuel directly into the carb. It is a pull start and it will start in 2 pulls if I prime it this way. If I don't do this it takes about 50 pulls to start it even if I try to prime it by plugging the exhaust hole for a few pulls. The only negitive I see by this method is that you can't zip tie on your air filter unless you want to constantly be cutting the tie, but I could be wrong. I guess my main question is, is this bad for the car? And is there another way to prime it without taking off the air filter?
Thanks
Thanks
#3
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
try the ghetto way " the Blow Job". pull the fuel line from the exhaust nipple and blow to the end of it thus creating pressure in the tank that pushes fuel to your carb in 0.2 seconds.Place the line back and give it a pull. should start in one!
that's faster that doing 50 pulls and ruin your pull start early.
Don't get over excited with the " the Blow Job" you might flood the motor.
that's faster that doing 50 pulls and ruin your pull start early.
Don't get over excited with the " the Blow Job" you might flood the motor.
#4
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From: , NC
Theres only one very, very bad thing about that method. If you don't ziptie your filter on the carb, it will come off sooner or later. I learned the hard way, though thankfully I didn't end up with an engine full of dirt.
I personally use the blow method.
I personally use the blow method.
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From: LAKEWOOD,
WA
Hi
Here is a little trick that I use on my RC10GT. Take a paper towel or a napkin, and stick it in the stinger of your exhaust pipe. You then pull on the pull-starter a couple of time to prime your engine, and then you remove the paper towel or napkin from your sting after the engine is primed. You then hook up the glow starter and then pull-start your engine to get it going.
Here is a little trick that I use on my RC10GT. Take a paper towel or a napkin, and stick it in the stinger of your exhaust pipe. You then pull on the pull-starter a couple of time to prime your engine, and then you remove the paper towel or napkin from your sting after the engine is primed. You then hook up the glow starter and then pull-start your engine to get it going.
#6
I agree with AJ DRAGON's method but I just use my finger. I do three pulls with finger over stinger and shes ready to bash. I've notice that my stock engine really hates the cold, I mean really. I just give her 30 seconds with a hair dryer and she'll fire right up so if the cooling head is cold to the touch, warm it up.
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From: Incirlik AB, TURKEY
These tips will definetly come in handy for me.....it gets discouraging watching the fuel through the tube inch slowly towards the carb about a milimeter per pull. Now I know a way to quickly prime it. Thanks.
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From: LAKEWOOD,
WA
ORIGINAL: Skullbasher
I tend not to cover the exhaust stinger... I find giving a blow job to my car much easier...
God that is wrong...[:@]
I tend not to cover the exhaust stinger... I find giving a blow job to my car much easier...
God that is wrong...[:@]
#11
The primer bulb already suggested is cheap and works great. It also carries a lot of fuel in it for longer upside down running without stalling.
Something like [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUD3&P=7]this[/link]
Something like [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFUD3&P=7]this[/link]
#12
yeah ifyour engine isgetting old, the compression may be down so i used to have to pour fuel in the carb too. Try richening the top end needle and with the radio off - DO NOT IGNITE PLUG YET! - open to wide open throttle, which will make it easier to prime by the finger over the stinger method...which is the best way IMO. then turn radio on, back to idle, start her up.
#13
Pinch the hose from the exhaust to the tank,open the tank lid then close it,release the hose. Do this till you see fuel go to the carb.. LATER NITRO-MAG...
#15
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From: Montague,
PE, CANADA
my AE starter box annoys the
out of me.. the Y connector doesnt work and when it does, it will barely turn the engine over and it eats batteries. i find devices such as the roto-start and the ez-start better, but i only bash my truck...
out of me.. the Y connector doesnt work and when it does, it will barely turn the engine over and it eats batteries. i find devices such as the roto-start and the ez-start better, but i only bash my truck...
#16
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From: spring lake,
MI
yeah, the team associated starter box worked very well for my os .12 cz engine, but when I bumped up to the os .18 cvr, I always thought that I was flooding the engine until I figured out that the starter box wasn't powerful enough.
#17

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From: LAKEWOOD,
WA
Hi
If you are having a problem with your starter boxes then read this article on how to upgrade it.
[link=http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/ht_starterbox.asp]Starter box upgrade[/link]
If you are having a problem with your starter boxes then read this article on how to upgrade it.
[link=http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/ht_starterbox.asp]Starter box upgrade[/link]
#18
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From: Montague,
PE, CANADA
my new .18 O.S. wont start either with the starter box.................is there anyway that i can change the motor? if so what motor?




