ingy, hookin isn't a problem with most 1/10 stadium trucks...at least for me...my AD2 will flip over backwards downhill on dirt.

hehe I'm seeing that, what tires do you use for all around dirt driving?

all around i'm usually on proline bowties or step pins, but the places i run are usually pretty hard packed, or short short grass.

finnally ready to run[8D]

hey to all, I have owned a rush for about 6 years now. Ive read all the posts on this thread, and have some info that might help. You should upgrade the chasis to the evo if you have an original rush, it along with the new motor plate makes it alot stiffer. As far as grease in the rear diff, use Tamiya antiwear grease, its super sticky so use sparingly, this also works great to tune the diff. Aluminum arms are okay for show, but once theyre bent theyre bent. Associated spring assortment works excellent on the rush, they have a great rate selection, and are the same length as the stockers. Engines are up to the individual, also depending on what you do, I race mine, so I have to stick with th 12r ss, track rules. As far as spare parts to keep on hand, control arms, spur gear, slipper pads, clutchbells of various teeth count. On the clutch bearing you can replace with ball bearings from Tamiya, I dont know the exact size. Also upgrade the turnbuckles to titanium from lunsford, also available from HPI. I hope this helps. Engine tuning tips, if the tires spin at idle or neutral check your idle speed, if that dosent help check your clutch springs, the stock clutch springs are soft. Hard starts when the engine is hot could be due to the carb setting to lean on the high side. A temp guage will help a lot when it comes time to tune. Tires, for grass I recomend Masher series from Proline or the stock tires from the Cen Mt2 both are aproximately 5" tall, dirt / bashing either dirt hawgs or dirt works, both work for all surface driving. Glad to see that the rush is finally getting some popularity.

how does the .12ss compare to the original .15?? looking to change to a .12 also and dont know what direct replacements there are besides the hpi engines

nitro, hpi is replacing the original chassis for free. not news here. i've had a Rush since they came out.........
in 2001.

the 12RSS, if it's the correct one i'm thinking of, is an oily leaky blah blah blah.

hard starts when hot usually indicates a worn out piston/sleeve

and it's been a popular truck everywhere else in the world, just not here because the Losi, AE, and Mugen trucks are overall better packages for about the same price. (simply MHO, no flaming necessary)

has anyone been able to bend the 2.5 mil chassis yet? i havent had it long (the chassis not the truck) and have already been through 2 2mils.

Jneesy, unless you buy the engine mounts, you CAN NOT swap any engine into the rush, but it's like $8 for the engine mounts, and go ahead and buy any standard crank, pullstart, side exhaust engine will bolt right in.

Its alive, jus broken the motor in. The spped was fassssssssssttttttttttttttttttttttttttt.[>:] Although i couldnt get to pop wheelies. Any help ingyn?

Also bent up my tie rod(the 3rd pair) in the process. Any titanium or harder tie rod outher that would fit?

tighten up the slipper clutch if you want to do wheelies.

I am designing my own custom aluminum rush evo wheels. Does anyone know where I can find the dimensions of the stock rush evo wheels? (I dont want to take off my newly-mounted Pro-lines)

And where does the 2.2 inch business come from? Measuring every outside dimension shows no sizes near 2.2 inches.

bead size.
go measure your 1:1 car's rims. if you have 16" rims on your 1:1 car, the outside of the rim is goin to be well over 16".

I picked up an old nitro rush on ebay for the hell of it for 35 bucks. Ive never been into land rc, just large boats.
Anyway, i dont know much about nitro engines, and this has the nitro star fe in it (which i realize is not the best engine) Anyuway i can't get it started. I have taken the whole thing apart, and the piston sleeve looks almost brand new and the piston itself has a little wear on one spot buit nothing horrific. There seems to be a moderate amount of compression, and the carb is getting nitro fuel and the ignitor is charged etc. Ive adjusted the carb to original factory specsa as far as i can tell.
What am i doing wrong?? I have been looking a little at new engines but was really hoping not to have to spend more money on it.
Is putting an OS Max engine in it easy, or do i have to change the clutch and evertyhing?
Thanks a lot
a

avs, i wish i could find a deal like that for a parts truck, lol
as long as you have a side exhaust, rotary carb, pullstart standard crank engine and the $8 engine mounts, you can swap it into the rush.

Yeah i got a decent deal on the thing, but i am still trying to get the nitro star to run, the os max i have is in another car i was planning to sell, but i dont have a lcue how to fix the15fe.
a

check to make sure that the piston liner is lined up correctly; that is that the exhaust port etc corrosponds to the ports of the crank case. there should be a notch on the liner, u just have to line that up with the seam line on the crank case.

hey, i see we have another thread going here [&:]

anyone got a link to that site where the guy built a .21 rush? cause ive been looking at the chassis on my beloved evo, realised theres some extra holes for the engine mounts, i figure i MIGHT be able to bolt in a pair of 21 engine mounts onto those holes (after drilling the chassis plate) and drop in a used .21 off ebay...i figure the total conversion would only set me back about £5/10, then whatever motor i can come up with, try it if it all works then go spend out on a nicer engine and realy make it fly

what'd you guys think?

Putting a big block in the rush is far from a bolt in persuader! I think New ERA makes mounts? All so get ready to replace parts often, as the big block will break a lot more parts particularly in the gearbox. If you want all out part breaking power get and OS TZ .18 that has as much HP as a lot of big blocks and with just changing the motor mounts will bolt right in. You can still use your stock parts like clutch and so on. [8D]

lol, yeah itll blow bits of drivetrain every 2 seconds with a big block unit...but still a VERY cheap buget .21 is going to have a load more power than the equivilant spent on a small block? just a little thought i was having probbably end up drilling bits outa the chass to get it in, well almost certainly, how come nobodys made a bb conversion for the rush? they do one for the rs4 evo3 or whatever the HPI tourer is...?

actually new era makes the whole BB swap kit, 46.

I toyed with the idea back in the day, but man, a hot .12 is more than enough.

Is it possible to dye the black plastic parts on the rush evo? I want to change the color for a new body. Which brings me to another question:

Will any of these [link=http://www.customworksrc.com/products_bodies.html#]custom works[/link] bodies fit a rush evo:
9017, 9010, 9004

Hey compound_goose, I put a bunch of pics of my .21 rush on the other evo thread. My website is http://nitrusrush.tripod.com. It's outdated but it still has a lot of necessary info. If you have any questions on a .21 swap email me at [email protected] or AIM at Jax100386. I'll be glad to help you out.

If all they did is bend and not get any thing else you are lucky. Been throw the alloy thing. I have had my Rush for 4 years. [&:]