QUICK EVERYONE IN HERE!

i guess ill be the first to reply. i dont think theres much grease left in my tranny, can i use normal grease from a harware store, or do i need special grease? ne1 know?

Whoa, speak of the devil. I was just thinking of starting a thread for Rushes. Are they good first-time nitros?

it was my first nitro. its easy to use/tune, and there are loads of spares/hop ups to make the car unique. if u want an all out racer truck, there are others like the rc10gt or evader, but for a decent nitro for a first timer, id say that the rush is top notch.

yeh i had an on road car which i race, but then i wanted to get something that i could drive anywhere!
the rush us cheap, fast, durable and as the other guy mentioned many hop ups / upgrades available!

Hi everyone..i am new to this forum. I brought a yokomo gt 4 about a year ago but it died on the first day and yokomo wouldnt fix it..crap customer care. So i had a break from rc cars and about a couple of weeks ago i brought a rush evo. It had it static for the first 3 tanks of fuel. Came to tunning it and the engine just wouldnt have it. It just reved and reved. Hpi took it back for 3 weeks to fix it..something wrong with the clutch i was told. I have had it back for a week and it WAS running perfect. I raced it with a friend who has a mad force and my little rush kept up with it on acceleration and then pulled away a coulpe of car lengths towards the top end..I was suprised to say the least considering it has a 3 speed .21 engine. Then thses last couple of days i tried to re - tune the car because it was starting to accelerate really slow, making loads of rpm but going about 10 mph flat out. hpi had set the settins back to standard, so all i had to do was follow the dvd they give you. Its gone down hill again. The car is revving really high and cuts out when the breaks are appiled or sometimes even when you let go of the accelerator!![:@]. In an attempt to adjust some of the settings and servo arms (as stated in manual) the throttle servo arm which goes on to the bolt which turns the carb open has snapped. (not the acutally arm the bit where the arm goes on to the ball joint)

Can anyone give any advice on fixing this??

im not sure, u should be able to use normal grease.

rish rush evo, How about you shorten that and i might be abole to help you...i cant read all that...SHORT ATTENTION SPAN!...Just Kidding....I have no clue what your talking abot in that paragraph[:@]

lol my cousin had a rush and it was so funny because i got a savage 21 like 5 days later and we went out bashing and his would never get going but finally we figured out that it had a hole in the fuel line so then we fixed that and we started racing around our track and we hit eachother and the engine mounts on his truck broke ya you guys are probably thinking bull**** but im seriuos lol it was so funny we hit so hard but luckally there were engine mounts for it at the hobby shop so he was ready to go by the next day.

lol savys are beasts![:-]

I use regular wheel bearing grease sparingly on my gears. It's cheap and lasts a lifetime. Check an auto parts store for some.

ummmmm......

My first nitro was an original Rush that I got about 5 years ago and other then the weak frame that HPI replaced with the up graded frame like on the Evo Rush it has been a great truck. I up graded to the HPI .15 SS which is a much faster and better motor then the .15 FE that came in it as well as some other hop ups. I do not run it much any more as I run my MT Racer and Savage more now. But I did run it a little over a week ago and it still runs great. As far as grease in the gearbox I use differential grease. Watch out as some grease is not compatible with plastic!!!!!

lol[:-]

that rush is sweet! luv tha alum[:-]

my first car, the rush

damn, those shocks r SWEET![:-]

I agree alloy shocks look good but according to the forms on HPI web site the plastic are better and have less friction. I have alloy on the back of my Rush but run the stock plastic ones on my MT Racer and Savage.

tbh i bought them mainly because of the way they look. the car is alot more stable now and the rear doesnt sag at all. yeh st they r coooooool, they shine in light. they are for the mp7 hyper buggy. got em off ebay 26 gbp.

oh, ok cool, plastic one look dumb! umless there a different color than BLACK!! black is sooo stocky![:-]

Hello all, i too am new to this forum and nitro racing, used to race a Kyosho Lazer ZX, that was my last venture in to RC Racing. Recently bought an Evo rush (first Nitro) and love it can't believe what i've been missing out on.

I've been racing on short grass but don't seem to get good grip with the standard Evo Tyres can anyone suggest a decent grass racing tyre or do i need firmer foams ??

Yeah those stockers provide insufficient grip, especially for grass, try something sticky from pro-line with some more profile, something like the Dirt-works or Dirt-hawgs, those are the best all-round tires you can get in my opinion and I find them grippy enough on grass as well...

www.pro-lineracing.com

Also, try playing with your shocks, like oil weight, springs... I think yellow springs front, blue springs rear with 30wt oil at the front and rear with 3 large size spacers at each shock on the rear is a great set-up...

Do these work well for front and back? I run on grass and the only problem I have is under steer. I thought this was because of being 2 wheel drive as I do not have that problem with my 4 wheel drive MT Racer. [8D]

Dirt-hawgs/works work well on both front and rear, although i'd prefer some Step-pins at the front in case of understeer. What shock set-up you running?

Cheers for the advice, i was thinking my set-up was wrong until i had a bash on some dry dirt and gravel.....such a big difference in tyre performance from running on grass. Looks like a new set of tyres is a must also going to check out the suspension options too.