RCCanuck

I have dirthawgs on my rear and I hate them....almost zero grip on most surfaces...they do hook a little on the grass but pavement/concrete or dirt they just break loose.....even when the truck squats these tires are awfull.....they are wearing very slowly thats the only plus to them

ferrariowner123

Really? I here to hook up really well. But if you want a sweet tire, get Pro-line Mashers or Pro-line Maobs they work really good cause I had both, and there not too expensive unlike 40 series HD tires right doc and Newfire? those tires are really ex*****ve like $130 for adaptors, wheels and tires. but any way, Moabs are alot of fun cause they give you an extra 1/2 of ride height and Mashers well they just look cool. but i had all kinds of tires for my evader and i'm proud to say that they were all worth it.

s_harn

from what i've seen and experianced such as when i was at the beach, the dirthawgs LOVE a semi packed surface with a good covering of loose stuff, like where the tide comes in and packs the sand tight but is still loose enough for the nubs to catch onto, and yes pavement they blow ass unless you loosten your slipper some, but they turn nice when on the front =D

RC_Racer005

thank you...i did find mine though, it took a while...and now the electronics work but when i tried starting the engine, it runs for 2-3 seconds with at least half throttle then shuts off. I havent run the truck for 9-10 months and i saw some rusted parts on the evader, i'm afraid that there might be a little rust in the engine since it ran perfectly fine 9 months ago. does anyone have the OS 18 CVR?? if so, what are your needle settings at? because i tried starting the engine at different settings with no luck. If someone can tell me their settings then i'll try starting it at those settings and then adjust it from there. thanx.

s_harn

just flush the HSN and the LSN and work from there working them in slowly till it starts rich then tune it again if it's already broken in

RCCanuck

go to the OS website and the factory needle settings are there.....did you leave fuel in it while it sat???did you after run it before it sat??if you answered yes to the first and no to the 2nd Q's then you likely have some rust in the engine...in which case pull it aprt and inspect it clean it all out with a good parts cleaner reassemble and try again..

creepshow

Ok fellas, I finished the rebuild! Now she goes to the auction block. [&o] Polished chassis, polished pipe, polished aluminum tranny brace, lightened vented slipper, Mach .15, aluminum front bulkhead, all aluminum tranny gears, and new parts! Lemme know what you think?

IZZYinIOWA

Damn Creepshow, that looks good. Maybe too good to sell ????

BEARBYSR

Hey, nice job. Are you planning on putting it on marketplace in RCU. If so I will keep an eye on the auction, curious to see what you get for it. Love the body!

creepshow

No, I actually kinda have it sold. I am trading it for a sportmaxx and he is selling it on e-bay for the money towards the truck. Thanks for the responces and the body is the old sportmaxx body I made it fit.

s_harn

hey, what slipper pads fit the NEVST from other brands? o.O or is there a way to make a slipper pad?

creepshow

Hmm, well they are pretty cheap??

scottywilkes

keep rubbing away at that pipe, its not shiny enough hehe. I gotto get mine more shiny, its still not good enough. Mothers alloy mag polish works wonders





The truck should have a OS18cvrx, alloy gears, street rims and tyres and body in a month or so, havnt ran it for about 6 months, as the motor is fried, so i spend time making it look better LOL

creepshow

Looking great!!! I would have spent more time on it but I am not keeping it, ya know. I will stick around this tread tho. I have learned alot and might be able to help others. I also will post a pic of the maxx when I get it. It looks like ***** but runs great!

s_harn

and my LHS doesn't stock them =( thats why i was wondering cause i dun wanna wait a week or two from towerhobbies

savage_x4.1

You could still drive but be carefull on the throttle Just tighten the nut as tight as you can and go to town

savage_x4.1

You know what I noticed?, almost every time I post it is the first one on a new page. Weird, I always seem to get the first post

evaderstbasher

ive noticed you got it on the 2 of the last couple of pages.. thats not that impressive

s_harn

yeh, i took it apart today and it looks like im gonna end up having to replace everything =( oh well guess it's a good exuse to send an order out to tower =3 i never did get any feed back on my homebrew shock oil o.o

savage_x4.1

I mean from a while back too.
And what home made shock oil, what did you use?

s_harn

i used a mix of napa multi purpose grease in the blue tub and some 30weight motor oil, to make it take a good blob of the grease and put it in something you can mix it into and start adding the 30w oil and mix it till it's just becomming smooth enough to run like syrup, it works really well o.O thin enough to not be hard but thick enough to dampen bumps and body roll when your really pushing it =)

when you get it right it looks something like that black rubber road tar the pour into cracks in a highway

RC_Racer005

Are you sure thats not too thick? And wouldn't it be cheaper to just buy a 2oz bottle of shock oil. But i guess if you have some grease and engine oil laying around and it works for you than go for it.

s_harn

well that's the nice part, you can thin it out using more motor oil if you want it thinner, but what self respecting gear head or anyone with a full size car doesn't have a lil oil n grease stashed away in there garage?

dicko

the motor oil will degrade the O rings in the shocks the o rings aren't designed to go with petroleum products. they'll end up going hard & leeking. i'd stick with the silicon oil if you can.

just my 2 cents.

RCCanuck

theres corners you can cut and the there corners you can't....shock oil is for shocks...motor oil is for motors....