venom69_420

i have the rs4 evo 3 and i love it
ive had some problems with my evader, but once you get the bugs worked out its a great car

greywolf187

I love my BX. the thing will do wheelies with the right tires on it. the bad thing about the is they don't turn for the life of them. so stock up on the front A-Arms and get a bigger front bumper for it. to conver it to an ST you will need a new front and rear shock towers, the ST A-Arm, turnbuckles, and front tires. and thats it. I think.

venom69_420

wouldnt changing the tires help that? those tires dont look the greatest

greywolf187

you can, I guess? never though of it. the tires I run right now I think do better that the stock.

venom69_420

the bx looks pretty much the same huh? bisedes tires, what else is different?

scottywilkes

it is the same, its the same car, just converted to buggy

It runs shorter front and rear arms, shorter turnbuckles, it has shorter shocks, comes with higher geared CB and Spur, shorter driveshafts, slightly different shock towers, body, narrower tyres and a few other little bits

greywolf187

yea, what he said.

BEARBYSR

No, unless your intrested in a couple of melted ones[:@] Yeah, after the second one melted, it was time for the alum. upgrade. I have the diff and everything back together and noticed a slight wobble in the diff. gear, like maybe it wasn't perfectly flat or somethin. I do notice that when I spin. the tranns. I can feel a little resistance in the gearing at the wobble spot. It doesn't seem to excessive and was going to try it out and see if it kinda" works" itself out. I tore the diff. apart lookin to see if I assembled everything correctly, and it looks ok. I guess I will find out soon[] I will post some pics of the new alum. rear soon, I have everthing off the chassi at the moment, giving a good spring cleaning

greywolf187

it will center itself. when you rebuild the diff every thing needs to be re broke in. to do this you run the car at in figure eights NO more than half throttle for about two tanks. then readjust everything again. and re adjust about five tanks after that. just to check that it has not come loose. I use about ten foot circles. I get through the first tank doing that then I'll do a straight run then a few figure 8's then a few more straight run then the eights again till the tank is out the re check the diff to make sure it's still tight.

venom69_420

MAN IM HAVING SUCH HORRABLE WITHDRAWLS I NEED TO RIP MY CAR!!! cant wait till my new moter gets here.
id take my rs4 out but the roads arnt quite dry and thier still kinda dirty...lol i baby that thing

by the way no happens to have a extra pullstart for the dtx .18 they want to send me do they, lol i orderd all the parts to fix it but i forgot to order a pull start mine was completely messed

bigstang

i have just the handel lol

Evad77

Alright guys, I'm at the end of my rope here. I rebuilt the stock engine and started the break in. I've made it through 5 tanks and now I have a problem. The only way I can get it started is to hold the throttle wide open. Then when I let off the throttle the truck dies.

I'm just about ready to toss it in the junk room and say the #$@! with it.

keeblerelf

Check your carb while the engine is off and the radio equipment is on. Pull the throttle, then release it and watch the carb. If it closes too much or all the way, then your idle is set too low. In this case, pull the throttle a bit and screw the idle screw in a bit, then release the throttle and let it reseat.

If it's not your idle, then it's your tuning. Your lsn/hsn might be too rich and just giving the engine too much fuel, which is typically the case after break-in since all the needles are set rich from the factory. Try leaning out the hsn a bit, but don't over-do it. I wouldn't go farther than a full turn from factory settings.

docphysics

change the glow plug, check the clutch spring, and shoes, make sure they aren't rubbing the CB at idle, and set the needles back to factory spec, you should be fine.

Evad77

Thank ya guys. I leaned it out to 1 1/2 turns and it is running great

I was afraid to go down past 2 turns but after 3 tanks at 1 1/2 it is still running strong.

BEARBYSR

Hey guys, need an opinion on the breakin of my new alum. diff. In the past(with the plastic diff.) I would tighten the diff. all the way, then back off about an 1/8 turn or so, run a few tanks thru, then repeat. After the diff. was broken in, I would generaly run the diff. tight and adjust my slipper. My question is, do I do the same thing for the alum. diff. or should I break in with the diff. tight or a little looser?

clayc2727

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys,ive been gone for a bit.I got the hyper 7 and built it up to being an A-main 2nd place car with a mediocre driver.Anyways,I was going to put the evader st up on ebay tomorrow but figured id let you guys get first dibs or let me know an asking price on ebay.So My stock DTX 18 engine crapped quite quickly so I just need to mail it in and have them send me a new one but figured id sell the car with the old one and my reciept.The buyer can deal with duratrax.I have new proline bowties on the back and new edge's on front with new wheels all around.Aluminum brake nut,aluminum aft bulkhead,aluminum front hub carriers,Stage II performance head (blue),Venom racing fuel tubes,Servo saver in package,Front bumper in package(spares),blue ball cups all around(looks really neat.bout it),extra e-clips,body clips,antenna tubes,screws,body(I painted)among other things.I'll post more pics tomorrow.Dont feel like breaking the camera and such out.Gotta go to bed. but what should i ask for it?Oh,radio,reciever and servos are all stock.Cars in great shape though.

drunkenjustin

hey guys i picked up some masher 2000's yesterday and when i finaly went to rumem the motor was reving really high as the car was moving but it wasnt moving very fast so i tightned the rear diff and loosend it 1/8 turn and ran it again and still not much speed, is the clutch gone and if it is what kind of shoes would fit?

docphysics

might be clutch, slipper pad, or diff. Check to make sure the slipper pad isn't glazed over first.

drunkenjustin

where's tha slipper??? is it tha thing behind tha spur?

docphysics

yes, there is a blue padded ring, behind the spur. I would bet its glazed over, and not thick enough anymore, causing your spur to spin and rev the engine, but the top shaft isn't moving into the diff.

drunkenjustin

how do i change it and what part number is it if it is???, im thinking about changeing tha clutch, and rebuilding tha diff

drunkenjustin

how do i check it??

docphysics

take off the slipper nut, and pull the spur gear and slipper plate off the top shaft. Then you will see the blue slipper pad.

N49185

Scottywiles, i would like to thank you for giving me the advice to drill out the screws in the heatsink. If you had never told me that my truck would be shrap metal right now... My cluth broke and at the moment i instatntly thought oooooo shoot how am i gonna get the heat sink off to get the whole engine off... The only bad thing was i figured i would clean the engine while i had it out anyways, and the piston sleeve wouldnt come out so i got some pliers and pulled it out with them..., the only mistake i realised it kinda sortove chipped alittle bit at the top... So i have no clue if the motor will even run now..., over a stupid cluth. If it doesnt im going for the 0.S. .18 cv-rx