evader512

n the past page i was haveing some air leak problems i found where itscomeing from but cant figure out how to get to it its leaking fromarround the thing in betwene the fly wheal ant the  motor casting       i dont know what its called is # 13 on the parts list for the motor.and i cant get the fly wheal off, how do i go about getting it off 

thanks
evader,

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

i cant see us affording the .18 so hats why im going 15, lower price but still good quality

TK66K

[:@][]   my son just got his evader trying to teach him to keep it clean and to do his on maintenance  we took it apart that went smooth cleaned put back together  went smooth until we tried to start it ........we got it to start but when we remove glow plug starter the engine stalls adjusted carb by book it helped but still not right  could it be bad fuel ???? we also put in new glow plug  did not  help really would like for us to fix this ourselves instead of sending it off    great form  thanks for the help

evader512

is it a new or used evader?

TK66K

new lhs broke it in we run a gallon of fuel threw it no problems will fuel have a milk color to it when it goes bad

evader512

how old is it

that kind

evader512

i was having air leak problems and found them    air is coming in around the shaft (the opposite side of the pull start) through the barring. does anyone know why this would be happening and how to fix this

evader,   

BEARBYSR

 I know what your sayin but the OS .18 is usually on sale at Tower for under 120$. You will pay close to the same for a .15 and trust me, you will end up wanting the .18 eventually anyway. The OS .18 turns the nitro vader into a rocketship and is one of the most reliable motors I have ever come across.JMO of coarse.

sheerider1026

my evader has been sittin for a whiel..  evader512 how is that diff mod doing??  i ported my motors and installed the watercraft chrome sleeve.. it rips.

evader512

sherrider last time i drove mine it was 2-3 months ago because no one will answer my air leak question but when i did drive it then the diff mod was great. esspecially on wet grass or a base ball field it also doninated in snow this year i was impressed

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

my SOON 2 BE next project:

evader512

it looks bran new

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

basicly is, friend got it used for $150, then couldnt get or afford to get it running. so im gonna get it for $75, add a .15 os cvx(s) to it, and enjoy it.

evader512

nice

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

what do u all have in yours, mill-wise??

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

Well, traded him(friend) for a bike he wanted 2 build 4 himself, so i just did it that way! barter and trade is better!
took out the crappy 4 cell, added a 5 cell trx pack, extended the antenna. gonna c if my pro .15 will fit in it next

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

 For the new folks who bought a dtx n-evader. :

I recently purchased a Duratrax Nitro Evader ST and have decided to share a couple of my experiences with it that should help folks get it going quicker and solve some problems.

First off, the plastic diff gear is trash. Replace it with Duratrax's new hard anno'd aluminum one ASAP! It's only $16 and saves you a ton of downtime. You can overtighten the diff to heck and back and it will -not- eat the gear or anything else in the tranny.

This goes double for the steering servo! Get that stinking SX100 servo out of there! You -need- a nice metal-geared high-torque servo! You can get one at Tower Hobbies for about $40 (Hobbico brand [Futaba made]). If you need to rebuild your SX100 Servo, remember, it's just a Futaba S3003 Servo. Even though Duratrax doesent offer SX100 rebuild kits yet (Early Feb), you can use S3003 Servo gears. They're the exact same servo (I know, I have both.)

I noticed some people have had an absolutely horrible time with starting those .18 DTX engines. Just like the manual says, try starting the engine at 50% throttle! If your carb is out of tune, just turn the radio gear off, plug your glow igniter in, and use a finger to open up the carb by pushing on the servo horn. Another thing I noticed is that it totally -hates- slightly-going glowplugs or batteries. It's a very finicky motor!

I actually got around all of that by getting my hands on an old-school glow starter. It's essentially the tubular lock-on part and an almost lamp-cord like set of wires comes from the back, out of an orange plastic endcap. Pretty sturdy, just ugly. Well, I had a ton of luck using 6V Lantern batteries with it. It makes the plug glow HOT and BRIGHT and will quickly even heat your engine block! I figure it's a little stressful on the glowplug, but in my experience, you only need 3-4 tugs to fire the motor over. And at $4.49 per plug for a Duratrax Silver Sport plug, I'm willing to take the risk.

As for carb settings? I'm still fighting with mine, sadly. If you mess with the low speed needle, the default setting is "Flush". This means, the top of the screw for the low speed needle is level with the brass sleeve it sits in. Screwing it in 1/4 or 1/2 a turn helped my motor, actually. Default high-speed needle is 2 and 1/2 turns out. After break-in, mine actually sits about 1 and 3/4 to 1 and 1/2 turns out. Seems to be nice (but still spits a lot of oil/fuel?). The idle screw is easily checked, if you mess with it. Pop the fuel filter off for a second and look in with the throttle at neutral. It should only be open about 1.5mm. If you take a look at Duratrax's website and look at the Engine Manuals, some (I forget which) provide a nice diagram of what exactly 1.5mm open LOOKS like! Makes it very, very easy.

I hope this helps some of you Evader Owners out there!

As an addendum, the lamp-cord starter thing was actually sort of an oddball thing for me. I was surprised. I found two of them in a box of parts I got from a friend of mine. It was an old Kyosho Sandmaster nitro stadium truck (Currently rebuilding it. Should be running by 1/9/03. Ruined clutch bell/shoes and air filter. Could use new shocks and tires, and a body.). Anyhow, I tried it just out of sheer curiousity. I figured, hey, More heat from a plug = quicker starting burn! I guess I was right! That 6V cobble-job kicks the motor over every time I've tried it so far!, beats the tar out of the Duratrax starter from the RTR box.

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

Well, reinstalled the og mill,tried 2 get it running, no go. so its sitting on the workbench. gonna pull the mill out, an get a os .15 for it.

evader512

why a .15

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

had the.12 version, had no probs with it. so i hope the .15 is the same.

mill im getting. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXBZ30&P=K

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

is there a set of rims out for my truck in this style??

Kings3

Well ive tried to do as much as we can but cant get my engine to stay going so im going to send it in since i still got the 2 year warrenty on the engine. I got a question will they send me a new engine if i send them my engine. What do i need to take off the engine to send it back(. Will i get a new pull start and glow plug if i take them off mine. Should i buy a new engine instead of the 0.18? What is the best engine under $120?

BEARBYSR

The OS .18 is the best.JMO.

evader512

i am also sending my motor in soon

evader512

pm me if you find anything out