scottywilkes

what i did was vicegrip the nut behid the flywheel and that stops the wheel from moving. then i used my glowplug wrench on the pilot shapt nut and it loosened it up so i could take the flywheel off.

Hey guys i am buying a OS18cvrx soon will the plastic diffs last long or should i get the alloy ones. At the moment i dont have the $$$$$ for the alloy ones so i am gonna get 2 sets of the Plastic ones will they hold up?

surrealcivic17

thanks for the tips and believe it or not i bashed the heck out of that flywheel and it would not slip off so it must be really wedged on there, but since i have to take my diff off i guess ill redo that engine part too, thanks a bunch

NewfieNitro

If I wear out my stock engine by putting 3 or 4 gallons through it and it is covered by the warrenty can i send it in for a rebuilt or new one?

And will my stock flywheel/clutch assembly and my stock exhauset fit this engine? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGP7&P=0

dirtburglar

I believe its yes on both counts--Whether you get a rebuild or new motor depends on hobby services--if they have the parts you get a rebuild, if not you get a new one--remember to remove the pullstart, air filter and I think the carb before you send it in--when you get it back they will have replaced those parts (least they did for a few guys)

NewfieNitro

Free Parts...[>:]

Midget

hahaha.....Take the Pull start of, glow plug and the clutch bell, clutch nut and fly wheel of.
When you get a new enigne you will have a new pull start and a gow plug.
Well at leased i did any whay........

KARRS

Yep, everything fits...the manifold fits a little snug around the engine head but it fits....I love mine, it starts with ease and is pretty fast. A lot better engine than the stock piece of crap.

scottywilkes

ok well im gettin the OS 18 cvrx very soon. I dont have the money at the moment for the aluminium tranny so i have to stick with the nylon tranny i am going to get 2 sets of the nylon tranny when i get the cvrx. Will the nylon tranny hold up or will it self destruct everytime i use it.

fga

My Feedback: (2)

i don't know why everyone knocks the stocker. i put the stage 2 head, and the engine runs like a clock. holds a tune since i can't remember. the last time i had to touch the needles, was like a year ago maybe, no lie. wheelies effortless.
if it ever does go though.... i'd put that O.S. .18 in.

dicko

go back a page or two & this was answered there.

led1977

my car is up and running again i only have a problem with the servo arm the hitec 625mg really makes it slip i had the screw really tight but it just keeps coming loose. also does it matter which side the diff screw is on i messed up and put it backwards but it works

Evader ---> MGT

Yeah, screwing it tight won't help. I used the arm that came with the servo instead of the arms in the bag the LHS told me to buy or the stock one. Also, The diff won't affect anything, it just makes it harder to get to when the engine is hot.

surrealcivic17

WHAT?! Jaywax just told me in the last page that i had to pull my tranny out and turn my diff around? which is the right answer?

Evader ---> MGT

I don't know. I rebuilt my diff so many times and put it in backwards and it never mattered? Maybe there's a reason, but it works for me becuase mines in backwards now and it works fine. My buds tranny breaks more than mine now.

led1977

i bought an aluminum one from duratrax and its got these stupid plastic inserts but the stock arm worked for a while but thats when i didnt know about the bent servo shaft and it stripped it can you get another one from tower or do you think my lhs has one do the commonly break

surrealcivic17

how to you guys make sure your clutch bell and spur gear are meshed correctly after you put an engine back in? just eyeball it and monitor it or is there a more precise way?

fga

My Feedback: (2)

eyeballing will work sometimes, but will cause headaches.
i have had breat luck with this method.
fold a standard piece of printer paper, copy paper, etc... put it between the gears, push tight, and tighten bolts. then simplyspin the paper out. works all the time for.

IZZYinIOWA

Has anyone tried to find a Hex adaptor for there rims? I was going thru the Duratrax Warhead stuff thinking that something might transfer over to the Evader and I found these:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMDD1&P=V

Just wondering if anybody has looked into this at all.

cookie monster

no those wont work. the st hex size (when the wheel has a hex) is 12mm. the pins that go into the axel part are to big and if you use the stock ones theres alot of unwanted slop and it will either brake the pins or kill the insides of the hexes. i havent tried it on the evader but i did try it on a rustler and it didnt work because of that little drive pin.

jaywax

surrealcivic17,

I just figured that since you were having a bunch of probelms with your diff, that this could be an extra burden. I did the exact same thing with my first rebuild and I just decide to take 10 more minutes to set it up correctly. I've only had to replace my diff gear once. I did not have it tight enough and it melted the gear. After that I have torqued it down tight and backed off 1/8 or less of a turn. It has worked great ever since. It does not sound silky smooth (it never does for long), but it works well. Periodically I check to see if there are any problems, but so far it has been good. I have come to grips that my diff will never sound silky smooth for a long period of time. As long as it works, I'm good.

surrealcivic17

hey jaywax i appreciate the follow up comment alot! i did pull out the diff and turn it around and its been running fine. i was actually going to ask on this forum how peoples transmissions sounded when turned slow. Mine does crunch lightly but i couldnt find out for the life of me why so you comforted me in saying yours did too haha. thanks again man

dicko

remember you can flip your diff plates over & get twice the life out of them, you just need to buy a new set of diff balls when you do this. or use carbide balls for which are harder & will wear your diff plates quicker. my diff isn't smooth on any of my offroad vehicles. the smoothest diff is the one on my RC18B which runs #s lipo on a 8000kv brushless. this cops the most abuse & for some reason runs the smoothest. i don't understand why so many people complain about the diff on them.

surrealcivic17

flip your diff plates over? im confused :P

hughes82

IZZY........ what do you need a hex adapter for? jw....well the rims that i bought came with hex adapters......if you can get rims for the Losi trucks, they fit the evader, and if you want adapters maybe someone that baught the HPI wheels and dont need the adapters will give them to you......heres a link to what i got off tower that had adapters for the Losi trucks (fit evader) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWX57&P=7

IZZYinIOWA

Hughes82,
I like those rims. So your saying those rims came with the adaptor to fit the Evader??? My local hobby shop kind of sucks when it comes to rim sellection, so I am trying to find something different then the 3 spoke chrome rims that they carry. I like the black, does it chip off or is it part of the plastic rim? And if you are saying the Losi rims fit the Evader then maybe I should be looking that direction.

Thanks,

Izzy