siezed evader engine
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siezed evader engine
1 siezed up the engine on my evader and it is still under waranty.Does anyone know what im supposed to do with it to get the engine fixed as far as the warranty is concernd or has this happend to anyone and have u sent it to duratrax and gotten it fixed i would like to know because i wanna drive it some more and i wannna know how long it takes for them to fix it
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RE: siezed evader engine
personally, I'd call them and see if it's under warranty, if you ran it too lean I'm sure they will not replace it..
anyhow, what I'd really do (what I did) would be buy and OS18 while I sent the stock one in for repair, that way I'd have a hot engine to run with and play, when the original came back, I'd put in my toolbox for a spare..
anyhow, what I'd really do (what I did) would be buy and OS18 while I sent the stock one in for repair, that way I'd have a hot engine to run with and play, when the original came back, I'd put in my toolbox for a spare..
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RE: siezed evader engine
If it is covered by the waranty, send it to Hobby Services (the address on the front cover of the directions). Get the info from [link=http://www.hobbyservices.com/]here[/link]. Thats what I did today. Or take it to your LHS to see what they say.
*And according to the official evader thread here, take out the glow plug and pull start before you send it in, in case they just send a new one, you get spares.
*And according to the official evader thread here, take out the glow plug and pull start before you send it in, in case they just send a new one, you get spares.
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RE: siezed evader engine
You should really get rid of the POS dtx .18 in the evader and get an O.S. .18 engine like most of us have. The engine is really good and has lots of power behind it.
As far as the warranty you just mail in it into to duratrax with the receipt. If it had something to do with what the customer did than they surelty wont take it. If you ran it too lean or something else it is in void of the warranty. Sorry
Rob
As far as the warranty you just mail in it into to duratrax with the receipt. If it had something to do with what the customer did than they surelty wont take it. If you ran it too lean or something else it is in void of the warranty. Sorry
Rob
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RE: siezed evader engine
ORIGINAL: InfinitySpeed04
If it had something to do with what the customer did than they surelty wont take it. If you ran it too lean or something else it is in void of the warranty. Sorry
Rob
If it had something to do with what the customer did than they surelty wont take it. If you ran it too lean or something else it is in void of the warranty. Sorry
Rob
If you're interested in going another route, you can convert your motor to an O.S. 15 CV by getting the piston/sleeve and cooling head. More durable because the CV is ABC rather than ABN.
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RE: siezed evader engine
This has been covered before. Duratrax WILL take the engine for ANY reason. I flat out admitted to them that I ruined my last one, and they replaced it free of charge. They even told me that a worn out sleeve and piston due to normal use is also covered. The 2-year engine warranty covers ALL damage under ANY circumstance. Never throw that DTX away until after the 2 years.. you can always have it as a spare.
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RE: siezed evader engine
ORIGINAL: gerwen
If you're interested in going another route, you can convert your motor to an O.S. 15 CV by getting the piston/sleeve and cooling head. More durable because the CV is ABC rather than ABN.
If you're interested in going another route, you can convert your motor to an O.S. 15 CV by getting the piston/sleeve and cooling head. More durable because the CV is ABC rather than ABN.
tell me about that conversion will ya? what parts do you need?
by the time you buy an OS piston and sleeve won't you have quite a chunk of cash into it?
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RE: siezed evader engine
should i send the hole car in with the radio and everything???? i hope the just give me a hole new engine instaid of just fixing it so that i could start off with a fresh motor.
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RE: siezed evader engine
Nitro you just remove the engine and send it in. You hold on to the clutch and eshast and airfilter just send the rest. And strat i am told you just buy a .15 cooling head and a p/s whether it be the os or dtx set for it and just put it into the .18 block.
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RE: siezed evader engine
Call Duratrax...they are aware the manuals make people run the engines too lean and most burn them up cause of it....their break in procedure is way wrong. The OS CV-R's do drop right in evaders but are alot of power for them...you'd have more fun with a .15 or .12 in it. And yoster is correct in his post also. Send it in they'll replace it.
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RE: siezed evader engine
ORIGINAL: thestratcat
tell me about that conversion will ya? what parts do you need?
by the time you buy an OS piston and sleeve won't you have quite a chunk of cash into it?
tell me about that conversion will ya? what parts do you need?
by the time you buy an OS piston and sleeve won't you have quite a chunk of cash into it?
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJ84&P=7]Head[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJ12&P=7]Piston/sleeve[/link]
$85 bucks. Maybe you can find the head on an older, used motor and save yourself some coin there. Or you could just buy a new [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ30&P=7].15 CV-X[/link] for $100.
I'm not sure if the stroke is different or the bore. So with the new piston/head you may have a .18, a .15, or something in between.
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RE: siezed evader engine
If you're interested in going another route, you can convert your motor to an O.S. 15 CV by getting the piston/sleeve and cooling head. More durable because the CV is ABC rather than ABN.
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RE: siezed evader engine
ORIGINAL: gerwen
This info comes out of the old Official nitro evader thread, it seems you just need to get the piston/sleeve, and head. I'm not sure if you need to buy the button separately, or if it is part of the head.
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJ84&P=7]Head[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJ12&P=7]Piston/sleeve[/link]
$85 bucks. Maybe you can find the head on an older, used motor and save yourself some coin there. Or you could just buy a new [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ30&P=7].15 CV-X[/link] for $100.
I'm not sure if the stroke is different or the bore. So with the new piston/head you may have a .18, a .15, or something in between.
ORIGINAL: thestratcat
tell me about that conversion will ya? what parts do you need?
by the time you buy an OS piston and sleeve won't you have quite a chunk of cash into it?
tell me about that conversion will ya? what parts do you need?
by the time you buy an OS piston and sleeve won't you have quite a chunk of cash into it?
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJ84&P=7]Head[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJ12&P=7]Piston/sleeve[/link]
$85 bucks. Maybe you can find the head on an older, used motor and save yourself some coin there. Or you could just buy a new [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ30&P=7].15 CV-X[/link] for $100.
I'm not sure if the stroke is different or the bore. So with the new piston/head you may have a .18, a .15, or something in between.
Man there is a WAY cheaper version of that.
Check this:
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGYC5&P=7]piston and sleeve[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPZ11&P=Z]head[/link]
Same thing, MUUUCH cheaper.
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RE: siezed evader engine
ORIGINAL: jkulhanek
I have a CV and it's ABN, but I do not care because these motors last ages anyway. Nickel plating is better quality than chrome.
If you're interested in going another route, you can convert your motor to an O.S. 15 CV by getting the piston/sleeve and cooling head. More durable because the CV is ABC rather than ABN.
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RE: siezed evader engine
ORIGINAL: jkulhanek
I have a CV and it's ABN, but I do not care because these motors last ages anyway. Nickel plating is better quality than chrome.
If you're interested in going another route, you can convert your motor to an O.S. 15 CV by getting the piston/sleeve and cooling head. More durable because the CV is ABC rather than ABN.
Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh................. NO.
ABC lasts longer than N.
I have seen 5 or 6 ABN sleeves that lost the nickel coating in the sleeve (and compression is shot) in 2-3 gallons. This is with a couple of BBs as well as these SBs.