Im not quite sure what I need this is the first time Iv personaly done an egine swap I still have the TRS and all the necessary screws. I think I need some kind of collet and for sure a flywheel but I dont know if the mip flywheels are worth it or not.

First...What is TRS?(maybe dumb question, but I'm baffled)
Then...
If it is an engine swap, then you have the old engine, right?
If so, then why not use that collet and flywheel.
If not, then more questions...
Pullstart? Flywheels for pullstart engines tend to be a bit smaller in diameter.
A lighter flywheel will spool up quicker, but will be harder to tune to idle well.
A heavier flywheel will idle smoother at a lower RPM, but will take a little longer to spool up.
Vented flywheel...I'm not sure what benefit you get, but it looks cool.
If you mean the MIP 4 in 1 racing clutch setup...I haven't used it, and I know there was a discussion not too long ago about them in a post by Frost_ called 'no more puny mip gt clutch'.
Give that a look.

If you drop in an .18 size motor find frost's thread on an aluminum clutch. The aluminum cltch is well worth it.

Right now, you would have everything to drop in an OS 12CVRX or 18CVRX. Use the collet that comes with the motor and you can use the flywheel from your original motor.

the 18CVRX is brutal! You would need to do a few other things to have it run strong and reliable. Biggest one is to change the gear ratio of the you clutch bell and spur gear. If you run your stock gears the 18 will top out way to fast and may even cause harm to your new mill by over revving. Plus it is darn right hard to drive when you pick up the front end constantly (wheelie at will). the new gears will help (also give higher top end speed), but, not solve the wheelie issue entirely. the next item is the clutch itself. the MIP 4in1 clutch just heats up tremendously, but, the aluminum clutch will not heat up as much and will lengthen the interval times between replacing bell bearings.

Oh shoot, cool, I found the link to the clutch.

http://www.ssrcracing.com/team-associated.html

Iv read frosts post. He's a cool dude with lots of good advice. LOVE YA FROST! I already have the SSRC Racing shoes aswell as MIP, Joe its not a stupid question its just beter than typing in "Throtle Return Spring". Im always coming up with crazy abrevations. but yeah I still have the collet from the old .15 it came with but I didnt know this motor or anything about it so I wanted to make sure so when I order from tower I dont end up waiting 3 days and get disapointed because I need someing else. OddsNEnds, thanks for the advice on heavy and light flywheels. Ummm (collects thoughts...) Oh yeah, I have the RR steel spur with an 18t CB I think the spur-g is 66t. As for the "Vented Flywheels" there is actually a good use for them im guessing its to cool your CB and clutch, (Best Guess).

I just thought of somthing! I wonder if you could use one of Macs tuned pipes on a GT since the CV-RX is side exhaust you could use one of Macs headers and use a nice tuned pipe. I would sound way cooler I bet. But on the downside youd have to put on a fitting for the gastank pressure system. another upside is your exhaust would be exiting the rear, it would solve my one oily tire that smells like nitro fuel. Anyone ever do this before or seen how its done? 40$ for an axhaust system like that is way worth it.
I dont care it I have to cut a hole in my body, I might have to make a brace for it tho. [&o]

ceo, drop an extra $10 on MIP's stinger exhaust if it's that important:P

but *I* would use a typical header/pipe arrangement and deal with the oily tire.

okay there has to be some good exhaust upgrades for the RC10GT. Right now its stock. I heard the stinger has a design flaw bc the unburnt fuel hangs in the header and constricts flow or some junk like that do you know anything about that?

I have heard that too, and it makes sense, as it points upwards.
Why not just use an extender for a typical pipe. I would cut it as short as possible and still get out past the tire, since it will change the 'tune' of any tuned pipe.
I run the Dynamite short dual chambered pipe on my Dynamite 12SPD. The pipe enables wicked RPMs. I have the identical engine in my buddy's XXX-NT with a stock RC10GT pipe on it, and it doesn't get nearly the revs. It does have more grunt though, I think. Kinda hard to tell cuz the gt is geared lower.
I have heard say that the rippled pipe produces really good torque, but I don't have firsthand experience.

I am with T-Bird...I just deal with an oily tire.

I stuck the stock losi pipe in to compare length. It is quite a bit shorter.

Or, turn your pipe down a bit and not so straight out so as to have the exhaust gases (and oil) go down more to the pavement and not flying in the air where it will land more on your rear tire.

I've used a couple of excellent pipes, it all depends on what you are looking for. Torque? Top end?

Torque, one of the best pipes for torque is the stock single chamber GT pipes.

More top end, still tons of bottom end, try the RD Logics Turbo II pipe.

For even more top end and still have better than good bottom end. This is extreme and only if you go with the 18CVRX. Try the RB Concept TM-01 pipe (it's a big block pipe). I run this in my GT and a 18CVRX, killer top end and the damn car still wheelies at all the wrong moments! (time to loosen my slipper a little)

yeah, i know it's BS:P

it's no more an issue with the stinger than it is with EVERY SINGLE OTHER pipe i've used:P

Im not sure but I think thats why Tower quite selling the Mip Stinger.... [:@]

they probably quit selling it because it quit selling.