bump start to pull start conversion
#1
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From: Dwight,
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hey guys, I know obviously that I need the starter cord, but what is the one way bearing and what does it do? Do I need to have one of these?
thanks!!!
thanks!!!
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From: KEWANEE,
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why would you want to switch? usually people get the bump...
anyways- your crank has to come out the rear of the motor and the back plate has to be switched to a pull start, the 1 way bearing rides on the crank shaft it grabs when you pull the cord and then it slips when it starts cause the crank is spinning after it starts. am i messing you up yet? i think youll need a diff crank that sticks out the rear... better off just getting a pull start motor. or just sticking w/ the bump box.
anyways- your crank has to come out the rear of the motor and the back plate has to be switched to a pull start, the 1 way bearing rides on the crank shaft it grabs when you pull the cord and then it slips when it starts cause the crank is spinning after it starts. am i messing you up yet? i think youll need a diff crank that sticks out the rear... better off just getting a pull start motor. or just sticking w/ the bump box.
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From: KEWANEE,
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here is a pic- if you look close you can see the small bearings in the inside
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJL63&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJL63&P=0
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From: Dwight,
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why? boxes are a pain to set up, and probably if done right I need a box for each car.. but, that's not the important part, with a pullstart, I'd be mobile and not have to carry the box with me in the yard or whatever...
I may not switch them over, I'm kind of deciding whether to do it or not.
I may not switch them over, I'm kind of deciding whether to do it or not.
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From: KEWANEE,
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ther are ups and downs to both- im not knocking you- to each their own. 
the one way bearings tend to get hairline cracks in them and then they dont grab (happens more on roto starts) the recoil sometimes f-up , its a little harder to prime it and start it when using a pull. the cord sometimes breaks....
the box is a beeoch to lug around and if you have a few diff cars it kinda suks. i mark my posts w/ the dremel in the top for each car (etching bit) or they make plates that go in the top for diff cars and your chassis fits perfect every time. its easier to prime and start w/ the box, the batts go dead sometimes, the mugen box is lighter than the crome top.
one thing to remember is that if you ever decide to race its a must to have the box.
http://www.wademcgeetradingcompany.c...plate_page.htm

the one way bearings tend to get hairline cracks in them and then they dont grab (happens more on roto starts) the recoil sometimes f-up , its a little harder to prime it and start it when using a pull. the cord sometimes breaks....
the box is a beeoch to lug around and if you have a few diff cars it kinda suks. i mark my posts w/ the dremel in the top for each car (etching bit) or they make plates that go in the top for diff cars and your chassis fits perfect every time. its easier to prime and start w/ the box, the batts go dead sometimes, the mugen box is lighter than the crome top.
one thing to remember is that if you ever decide to race its a must to have the box.
http://www.wademcgeetradingcompany.c...plate_page.htm



