Chillout47

OMG!!!!!!! great fun though...........

AE Pilot

Yes, they will.

ct_jazzmaster

Chillout47

Thanks AE Pilot, a change from the normal white or yellow is nice. Yes I know you can dye them guys.... but what the hell.

I bought the RTR and absolutely love it. I ran the hell out of it yesterday in damp conditions on concrete and had an absolute blast drifting it all over the place. I had got it tuned to run sweet, I was really happy with how it was running. I had bought a Duratrax temp thingy and the engine was at...........320!!!! damn....Anyway, I richened it up and got it down to around 260-270 and not a real noticable difference in performance. I see the consensus is that these engines like to run hot and I would agree with that, but I will run it cooler to maintain the engine and not lose much grunt. Lucky I got the temp thingy! I am quite experienced with nitro engines and have always tuned by performance and smoke etc. so I learned a thing or two there.

Something I noticed for the ready to run guys, after removing the carb restrictor with the air filter off, I also checked to see if I was getting full throttle.... and I wasnt. If you are using the stock radio gear, I couldn't get enough travel on the servo so I moved the throttle linkage to the outside hole on the servo arm and now I can get full chat. Just an observation.

Cheers, Mark.

kxbeastrider

Well it has been a while since my last post so I figured I might as well throw something up here.

The racing season in Lexington is over for the year unfortunitly, and with it being cold out that means it time to tear down (again) and start getting parts ready for next season.
I have got a good supply of most of the hardware that is used on the truck. I am still short a few peices and will be ordering some more of what I have just to make sure. A few chassis parts are still needed to have extras, but nothing I am desperate to have.

However my main issue right now is tires. I need to spend some serious money on some tires here shortly and get a fresh set of rubber on all the wheels including some updated foams for some of them. I am thinking about trying some firmer Trinity foams just to make sure they last longer than the Pro-lines. However with my recent addition to the toy chest, a 2005 FZ-6 my time and budget seems to be going elsewhere...lol.

Just before Thanksgiving some buddies of mine here at school got together after class one day at some bike jumps off in the woods near campus. This was the first time I have ever really bashed my truck, so I was a bit nervous doing so. However all went fine. The truck saw some nasty air time and took a few licks as well but held up fine. The other guys were beating around with some T-Maxx's so I was showing them how to do it 2wd style! We took some videos of the action and I will try to get some screen shots or something posted up shortly.

-bryan

kxbeastrider

Here ya go guys. I made a little video last night.
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2toJkvA9HQ]GT2 Bash Video[/link]

Enjoy
Bryan

xhaliex

is the stock rc10gt pipe any good(the silver one). i just bought one of ebay 2,25$

Chillout47

New wheels and tyres fitted, I will try them tomorrow.

REDisFASTER

Looks good Chillout!

I'm loving the black RTR body! I've got the same one as well!

Chillout47

Thanks, I ripped up the standard kit rears real quick. Hopefully these will go a bit longer. I like the black body too, good to get one on the RTR.

Chillout47

I managed to get a blue Factory Team pipe off eBay, are they the same as the smoothy? I got the FT shocks too.

stasoccerkid

chillout is that the rtr or the kit?

kxbeastrider

Thats a RTR, there arent the posi-lock wheels on the rear and no Ti turnbuckles are the first clues.

Nice truck, btw! I have heard good things about those tires for bashing. What compound did you get?

-bryan

Chillout47

No idea about the compound!!! I didn't know they did different ones. I just went for somethng that looked tough and would last longer than 3 runs on tarmac like the kit tyres.

Anybody know about the FT pipe? is it the same as the smoothy?

Also, anybody got a tiger drive on their RTR? I bet there is already something in this thread!!!

Cheers, Mark.

kxbeastrider

FT pipe is the smoothy pipe. It works really well.

Each tire company has differenct compounds that effect traction and tread life. The softer compound gives better traction, but has less tread life. The harder compound gives less traction but longer tread life.

M3 is the softest for proline, and the R compound is the hardest if I am not mistaken. Losi tires have color codes for the compounds. A little research on each manufactors site will get you all the information you need.

-bryan

Chillout47

Thanks for the info on the pipe, glad I got me that, they keep shifting the due date at Tower Hobbies.

I know all about tyre compounds, colours codes etc, I ran electric touring cars to a high standard (2nd overall in the national TORC champs stock class in the UK 2005) but I didint realise they did with what I would class as 'bashing tyres' but I suppose thats me being dumb. Learn something new everyday, I will look on the website and see what I got, I threw the packaging out last week, thanks for the heads up on that one.

The smooth pipe I have coming off eBay is coming with the FT header and I wont need it as my engine is pull start side exhaust so if any one wants it PM me, its brand new still in the bag.

Cheers, Mark.

Chillout47

Do any of you guys have a decent replacement for the plastic front wheel nuts?

Cheers, Mark.

REDisFASTER

Look into the part # for the locknut on the slipper clutch! Its the right size for the front axles! I learned this through my B4!

IMO, I would stock up on the nylon front wheel nuts than purchasing aluminum locking nuts. My reason for this is that I'd rather have a wheel fall off than break my knuckle, upright, suspension arm, or worse...

But if you're still looking into aluminum locking nuts (like the ones in the rear for you non-FT guys), find the part number of the slipper clutch spring nut. Its the right size for the threads on the front axles.

Chillout47

Nice one, thanks mate.

REDisFASTER

No problem! I just checked AE's site, the part# you're looking for is 6629 (taken from exploded view of the B4)

stasoccerkid

with the stock motor do u have to stop and let it cool or can u just keep it running as long as you want say around 85 degreas outside

REDisFASTER

Well, it depends. Do you have a temp gauge? If you do, check to make sure that the motor itself is within operating temps in accordance to the ambient temperature. If it is, then it'll be safe to keep it running.

It is a good idea to let it cool down every few tanks, though. The AE .15X runs pretty good when its hot, as it has a somewhat higher operating temperature than most engines.

On another note, I'd like to ask if the Ofna/Picco JRL .12 Offroad Red-Dot engine is any good in the GT2?

Here's the link to Tower: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LNSNB8&P=G

I'm thinking about this engine since I really want to get into the racing scene, yet need to keep a minded budget, since money is extremely tight right now, tighter than usual... Even though a .12TZ is only about $100 more, its stretched money that I just can't afford to use...

I'd like to know what are some people's opinions on the Red-Dot.

Thanks in advance.

SouthFloridaAppraiser

I NEED HELP PLEASE!

I just purchased a RTR GT2. I pretreated the oil filter and ran one tank with McDonnel 20% Nitro for cars and started at the factory settings for the initial breakin. I drove the truck on the dirt part of a baseball field and ran it basically 1/4 throttle, and was on the careful side. I utilized my TGX1 temp gun after a few minutes and noticed the temp was 300F so I richened the High Speed needle counter-clockwise 1/8 of a turn. That brought the temp down to 257F. I ran it for a few more minutes checked the temp again and it was the same, then almost ran it for the remainder of the tank and then let it rest for 10 minutes. By the way, the truck did stall out a couple of times, during the 1st tank run, but it started back up pretty easily. Also....I never saw white or blue smoke out of the tailpipe, but I never ran it full throttle. After the first tank, I could not get the car started again. I changed glow plugs (MC59), checked for flooding. etc...I tried about an hr. later (the fuel was still in the tank...i know that's not a good thing, but I don't think this is a huge problem..)--Florida and 70 degrees... I even tried adjusting the Throttle trim on the transmitter a few degrees in either direction. At times in this whole process the pull cord got tough to pull so I pulled the glow plug and air filter and possibly remidied the flooding. FYI I have the stock AE .15 engine (RTR Truck). Now for my questions?

I have read to check the glow plug...How does one do this..I put a glow plug in my glow plug igniter and tried to see an orange or white "light"...none...

What method do you recommend of priming the engine?

Should I set the Highspeed needle back to the original setting (lean out 1/8 a turn)

Any other suggestions/fixes would be greatly appreciated...

LAST, BUT NOT LEAST, I am taking a poll to name my Tempermental Truck. Please Cast your Vote

Hagatha

Peg

Clitilida

(For the old-timers...remember when they use to name hurricanes after women...of course we all know why...they are so tempermental...Kinda Like My Truck..)

For what it's worth, I also bought a new energizer battery for my Glow Plug igniter
I charged the transmitter batteries again....they are fine....I now drained the tank, put some after-run in the engine and took a hair-dryer to the tank to evaporate the fuel...by the way...I also tried using a hair-dryer on the heatsink/engine to start it up.....
I have new energizer batteries in the receiver....I don't think the transmitter or receiver batteries impact the ability to starta glow engine, but what the heck do I know..Al Bundy is my hero!

I might take it to a track tomorrow and ask the guys there, but would prefer not to...

SouthFloridaAppraiser

Pertains to latter post......I did turn the flywheel and positioned the crankshaft at BDC after the first tank.

Also..........Write in candidates are welcome for naming of my Truck...

REDisFASTER

Here's a good article (with pictures) explaining how to read your glow plug: http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/G...g-reading.html

As for priming the engine, plug the stinger with your finger and pull the pull-start cord a few times (WITHOUT the glowstarter on the plug) and watch as fuel travels up the fuel line and into your carb. After you see it flow into your carb, pull the cord one more time to make sure its getting into the carb and not just the carb nipple. Any more and you may risk flooding the engine.

IMO, put the carb settings BACK to what it was from the factory, and break it in for 2-3 tanks before you start leaning out the engine.