stasoccerkid

hey i have a rc10gt2 rtr and was wondering if any one else has ever had probles with the pin in the rear axle cause i have broke mine twice

REDisFASTER

Try loosening your slipper clutch.

What kind of terrain are you running on? It sounds like all your engine's power is being hindered by binding wheels, therefore releasing the torque to the second closest thing to break, the pins. (First, and easiest thing to break is traction)

stasoccerkid

yea thats about wat i was thinking but thought i would ask
im driveing on grass with a pretty big ramp with the stock tirers in the rear
how many truns out from tight should the cluch be or a good starting point
thanks for the help

REDisFASTER

Actually, I can't exactly remember I usually use a caliper and measure the distance from the face of the nut to the edge of the threads. Stock settings should be 2mm. I recommend anything between that and 0.8mm

stasoccerkid

thanks but thats the problem i dont really know how to measure it cause i dont have a coliper and i tryed with a ruler but i didnt really work

REDisFASTER

Ah, okay... Here's an alternative method, if your finger nail is long enough, try to use that! Try to have it so that theres about 2-3 thumb nail thicknesses from the end of the shaft, to the face of the nut Its not as accurate, but you can always adjust the nut while you're testing out the setup.

Hope that helps

stasoccerkid

yea i think i got it fiured out my lhs isnt very close so i made a pin out of a body pin
and i found out that a dime is about 1mm thick

nitrolstdan

Hi all,
i'm building a rc10gt2 factory team kit. I'm having a really hard time screwing the plastic rod ends onto the thread on the ti turnbuckles. I know that the thread on each sides go the opposite direction but it seems really difficult to twist them all the way on. Any tips? Thanks.

wolfgang123

i just heated up the middle metal part an pushed them in to where they needed to go then put super glue on the end of it been working great

1FastGT2

Try putting chapstick on the ends of the tie rods. They will thread in there better and also when you need to adjust camber or steering they will turn way easier.

robbrwstr

Hey GT2 owners. Go to this site for a neat 2 piece engine mount for the GT2
[link=http://www.onstatcomputers.com]onstat computers[/link]

SouthFloridaAppraiser

I have been racing my RTR GT2 for a month now except for one major change. I purchased a new O.S. CV-R and love the control at the bottom end (O'Donnel 20% Racer Fuel). This seems to fit the technical track that I race at. I have to lean out the HS and LS a bit further as I have just broke it in. I beat all the average racers, but cannot beat the fast guys (yet). I have also installed a good steering servo (Hitec 5955MG) and a Futaba 9301 for throttle. I have a few questions. The Futaba servo is quite old and was wondering the transit time and torque (Is this a good throttle servo?) I am running Losi Directionals on the fronts (they appear to work well), and JC Concepts Double Dees (Green - soft compound) and it hooks up pretty well. I have also ordered Pro-Line Bow Ties M2, and Pro-Line Lug Nuts M3...What works best on a Loamy track, and a hard packed somewhat dry track? Is there a better pipe than the stock AE Pipe such as the Team "Smoothy" or AE torque pipe? (Must give me 5% better performance to change)..Should I clean/relube the diff after a month? FYI..I am a pretty good driver and pride myself on not crashing/relying on turnmarshals, yet I don't think I am at the "fast guys" level (superior driver/skil). Obviously, practice is tantamount, but I want to close the gap as I think there set-up/equipment must be superior..Any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated....

stasoccerkid

^Ill let some one else anwer your questions but ill post some pics form today i just got the dirt dawgs and thay seem to work pretty good in the dirt and really good on road but now my cars is filthy any segestions on cleaning it like wat should i take off or out?

kxbeastrider

Congrats on your racing. I race my GT2 a good bit during the last summer and fall and I am looking forward to running her on a more normal basis as the temps come up.

A coule things to look into for racing.
Before you buy alot of wheels and tires. Invest is the Quick Change rear wheels for your truck.
In the rear, I run several different things. Most of which are for hard packed tracks with a little sand on top, which makes things slick.
For Prolines,
Holeshots, Bowties (all M3)
For Team Losi
Step Pins, T-Bones (Red Compound)

Up front I run Proline Edge and blade tires
as well as a set of holeshots for more bite.

As for power increases. I am running a dynamite .12 motor and it runs really strong. My throttle servo was a little too slow but I recently upgraded and we will see how that goes.
A pipe I dont think is really going to help you all that much. Where the top guys are more than likely getting you is in the corners. The hardest part of racing is the corning and knowing what line to take and to do it consistantly.

Another thing to look into will be bearings. When ever I can stomach the money for them I will be getting a full cet of Acers or something. The stock bearings are junk.

I would also recomend playing around with set ups and suspension work.
I purchased a kit that includes all the rear springs and front springs available for the truck. Then I purchased the other 2 clutch springs that are available for that car to adjust when the clutch engages.

Racing can be expensive there is no doubt about it, but IMO it is worth it.

Feel free to PM me anytime or email me ( i will see that more often) if you have other questions.

-bryan

REDisFASTER

Bryan, good stuff!

I haven't actually raced my GT2 yet, but I'm going to take your advice on the wheels/tires/QC-hubs, as well as the shock springs and clutch springs. I've got the same theory going on for my on-road. You've got good advice. I recommend others looking into racing their GT2 also go along with what you've said!

kxbeastrider

NP!

Look back several pages and you will see a scan I posted about a "mud flap" to protect the CVD's and lower shock mounts from oil and debris.

Oh and another thing. Buy like 4 complete shock rebuild kits! You will need it. They leak and go bad all the time. I usually rebuild mine after each weekend and depending on how hard I am on it during the heat races, I will rebuild them before the main.

-bryan

dirty_j_62

hey bryan

do you know of any tracks north of charlotte near va i am about 2 hours north of charlotte in va, strait up 77, and i cant find any tracks around here. the closest one i know of is in king. you wouldnt happen to know of any around mount airy or so would ya?

stasoccerkid

im thinging abot buying a new engine for my rc10gt2 and segestions links would be great

REDisFASTER

O.S. .18 CV-RX and an NTC3 Clutch nut.

Mr.Positive

why the NTC-3 clutch nut?

REDisFASTER

the .18 CV-RX is a short threaded shaft. The clutch nut holds in the flywheel, as well as provides an extended shaft for your bearings and a hole at the end for your screw to hold your clutchbell in place

Checkpointracer

Hey guys how would this engine fair for racing a GT2? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRUN7&P=0. I know about the CV-RX but I don't think I can get a backplate for it since I want to use a starter box.

Thanks.

stasoccerkid

i was just going to ask the same thing and if not what is a good race engine becaue the os .12 only has 30000 rpm so will that increase from the stock becseu the stock should be close to that

REDisFASTER

Higher RPM doesn't exactly mean that its better. Look at touring .12 engines, they go up to 47,000 RPM, but how come we don't use them? We don't use them because they don't make as much torque in the low-end as offroad-based .12 engines.

The OS .12TZ is a monster of an engine. I'd recommend that one instead.

stasoccerkid

o ok yea thats what i was looking for but couldnt find it but what about 1.5 hp is that too much can u control it bercause my car spins out pretty easy