cvd's toast!
#1
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From: rhinelander, WI
Just a word to the wise. Bought some mip shiny cvd's for my jato last fall and they were a dissapointment from day one. While installing them, one of the pins was oversized or holes at joint undersized causing one side to bind badly and set screw to work loose, pin slid out and promptly ate my rpm arm. Repaired all and used a homemade hardened pin. Got a total of maybe half gallon on them and today my truck slowly stops and don,t move. Oh no, here we go again, this time the axle split in half where the pin is on one side and the other one is severly bent,WTH! I can't remember the last time a "hop-up" this pricey was so badly made that it cost me some arms, constant worry of failure, and more down time than stock. Yeah, I'm not happy right now as closest hobby shop is 50+ miles and they rarely stock parts for jato. If you go to cvd's, don't go mip. GGRRRrr!
#2

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From: Temecula, CA
Whoa... MIP makes the best CVDs in the industry. They are the creators of the CVD.
Your first mistake was trying to reverse engineer them. If you had an assembly issue, why did you keep putting them together? Usually if something doesn't go together right, I put it down and call the MFG instead of continuing assembly. I guess I am giving MIP benefit of the doubt here and leaning towards operator error. I am not saying they are perfect, and maybe you got a bad CVD or wrong part, but you should have handled it with them before putting them on the truck.
Your first mistake was trying to reverse engineer them. If you had an assembly issue, why did you keep putting them together? Usually if something doesn't go together right, I put it down and call the MFG instead of continuing assembly. I guess I am giving MIP benefit of the doubt here and leaning towards operator error. I am not saying they are perfect, and maybe you got a bad CVD or wrong part, but you should have handled it with them before putting them on the truck.
#3
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From: Houston, TX
yea, I heard mip cvd's were really good. Jared tebo uses the mip ones, and I, am also an leaning toward operator error, not mfg error...I still plan on getting a set for my rc10gt
#4
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From: rhinelander, WI
Maybe it is just the ones for the jato? As to operater error, partly yes for using the one as it was, but they should have been right from get go. Like I say, my closest shop is 50+ miles away and I don't want to have to wait for parts I just bought. Also the design kinda sucks too, instructions say you may need to limit suspension travel, why? for that kinda money you should be able to increase travel
. Also you have to constantly check set screws so you don't have the problems I did, when they could have designed them to have captured pins by the bearings like some other ones. I'm just saying because you here something is good don't make it so. Just think they should be manufactured to tolerance like most expensive parts, and live up to there reputation of strength. These were way to weak for their intended use. So I will accept blame for using one and ruining an arm, but not for having one bend under normal use and not for having one split in half. Like I say, buyer beware[8D]
. Also you have to constantly check set screws so you don't have the problems I did, when they could have designed them to have captured pins by the bearings like some other ones. I'm just saying because you here something is good don't make it so. Just think they should be manufactured to tolerance like most expensive parts, and live up to there reputation of strength. These were way to weak for their intended use. So I will accept blame for using one and ruining an arm, but not for having one bend under normal use and not for having one split in half. Like I say, buyer beware[8D]
#5
A common trick to relieve the constant worry of set screws backing out, is to put a short piece of heat-shrink tubing around the bell of the cvd.
Also, if they were chrome plated, then there is always a risk of flashing left in holes, and on edges. One should make it a practice to always check parts for fit and finish. I would bet that a pass with the right size bit, or even de-burring with a blade from an X-acto would have loosened that pin up.
Another common trick for cvds is to use a short piece of the appropriate size allen wrench as a pin. It seems to be stronger, and it's got flat edges for the set screw to seat into.
As for the limiting of the suspension travel...When you run dogbones, there can be 'clearance' on both ends of the bone to facilitate full articulation of the suspension arm. When you capture one end of the bone, then you may have to limit the articulation...That is just logic, and has nothing to do with MIP, or anybody else that makes them.
I agree with you in the notion that when you buy expensive aftermarket stuff, it should make your ride better. But law of averages says that there are going to be a couple of bad ones that slip through. Luck of the draw, and you got it this time.[:@] Better luck next time.
Also, if they were chrome plated, then there is always a risk of flashing left in holes, and on edges. One should make it a practice to always check parts for fit and finish. I would bet that a pass with the right size bit, or even de-burring with a blade from an X-acto would have loosened that pin up.
Another common trick for cvds is to use a short piece of the appropriate size allen wrench as a pin. It seems to be stronger, and it's got flat edges for the set screw to seat into.
As for the limiting of the suspension travel...When you run dogbones, there can be 'clearance' on both ends of the bone to facilitate full articulation of the suspension arm. When you capture one end of the bone, then you may have to limit the articulation...That is just logic, and has nothing to do with MIP, or anybody else that makes them.
I agree with you in the notion that when you buy expensive aftermarket stuff, it should make your ride better. But law of averages says that there are going to be a couple of bad ones that slip through. Luck of the draw, and you got it this time.[:@] Better luck next time.
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From: cape coral,
FL
ive got a set of mip shiny cvds on my rc10gt. i found the threads on one of the drive axels were a little messed up but other than that they work great. my car does 60+ mph and i have a os 18 tz in it. i think you just happened to get a bad set. everything cant be perfect. and imo i think the design is pretty good.



