droidswarm

Hey,
Im trying to understand my Firestorm and tune it as best I can, but ive got no local LHS so you guys are the only help ive got!! Sorry if these are stupid questions/problems so Ill group them altogether in one thread:

1) Im geting alot of fuel leaking from somewhere out of the engine, I think from between the heatsink and engine. I did take the heatsink off the other day, I didnt notice a gasket but should I have used some sealant to seal the join? [sm=red_smile.gif]

2) I cant seem to get the brakes as sharp as I would like them. If i disconnect the link from the servo to the carb and apply the brakes they are really sharp and strong, however when the link is connected the carb stops the servo arm from rotating so much and applying the brakes as hard. Is there an adjustment I can make for this?

3) I want to re-tune the engine but dont know how to find the stock setting for the idle screw. The LSN and HSN are in the manual, but not the idle screw. Does it matter?

Thanks for helping out,

A

daytimeninja

Hey, I can't seem to help you on the first 2 problems, but when tuning, just adjust the idle screw to whatever you feel comfortable with, just not too much to where it creeps forward. I'll try to see if I can find some answers to your first 2 questions.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Was the head leaking before you took it off? You should have at least one metal shim they call it which acts as a gasket to seal it. All so when tightening the head bolts you should do it evenly.

In the manual there should be the factory settings. If you do not have the manual you should be able to down load it off the HPI web site.

See if this help you to tune, as tuning can be a pain stacking learning experience!
http://www.*********.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm

Number one rule about this hobby learn to do all your own work!

Good Luck and have fun.

REDisFASTER

Swap the brake spring for fuel tubing, and adjust the rear collar to how much braking you'd like.

Make sure to adjust on your transmitter accordingly.

droidswarm

Thanks for the replies!! [sm=shades_smile.gif]

46u - It certainly wasnt leaking this much, but as I did few things at the same time I cant be sure where it is. Is it ok to use sealant as well as the shim? Im trying to learn to do my own work, but its difficult when no-one i know is into RC and I havent got an LHS.

REDisFaster - There is fuel tubing on the brake arm. but a spring on the carb arm. Do you mean change the spring on the carb arm? I think it would all be great if the carb arm didnt stop the servo from turning. Can you lengthen or shorten to carb arm?

Can anyone advise a decent online shop based in the UK?

Thanks again

REDisFASTER

DON'T swap the spring on the carb arm If you do, then you may end up breaking the plastic horn on the carb.

You can, by all means adjust the collars on the carb arm though, just adjust it in your transmitter accordingly, since your "neutral" point will include about 5-10% throttle. You may need to adjust your brakes afterwards

jatoracing33

wen u tighten the head, make sure u do it like a tire.....do 1 screw, then the 1 directly across from it but dont go in a circle. according to my lhs it can strip the screws

droidswarm

Once again thanks for the replies [sm=biggrin.gif] but i think I am still missing the point [sm=confused_smile.gif]

What I am saying is, if I could get more clockwise movement in the servo arm (before it is stopped by the carb arm), then I could get harder braking (as i am not convinced my braking is hard enough). The only way I can see this can be done is by changing the spring on the carb arm to allow more movement of the servo linkage toward the carb.

Please bear in mind I am a total noob and probably need the most basic things spelling out.[sm=red_smile.gif]

Cheers

jatoracing33

could you show us a pic of your problem?

droidswarm

Hey Jatoracing33,
The first pic is the servo in neutral, the second pic is with the brake full on, the third pic is with the brake full on and the carb arm disconnected from the carb.



As you can see there is very little movement between the neutral position and brakes full on, as the carb link is stopping it turning, this is making it very difficult to get the brakes set right. Also as the third pic shows the servo is working fine as when the arm to the carb is disconnected the servo can turn alot more. You can see the spring on the carb arm is virtually compressed in netral, i think this might be the problem.

Ive also just whipped the heat sink off, there were only 2 gaskets on top of the piston instead of 3 shown in the manual! Is that enough to cause fuel to leak out?

Cheers

jatoracing33

try to mess wit the spring on the throttle link...it looks like thats what is hanging up. if not that try messin with the placement of the links on the servo arm. it looks like they can be moved around a bit. as far as the head gasket thing a missing gasket will cause leaks

Vigilante212

Put a longer piece of fuel tubing on the brake arm. Just enough so when its idling the brake is slightly engaged or dragging. You dont really want too hard of brakes though or they wear out real fast. As for the leak check to see if the faces of either engine gasket is discolored this is a sign of leaking or detonation outside the cylinder.

rdt45

Try tightining the brake shoes a little bit, this helped mine. Do not use any sealant on the head. Just use the shim that was on it.

droidswarm

Sorted it!! [sm=lol.gif][sm=biggrin.gif]

There are spacers either side of the spring on the carb arm, I removed a couple of them which has given more movement,

Thanks to all who responded and helped [sm=shades_smile.gif]

Now to source the new gasket set...............

(X)

MY bad, I'll PM you instead