wow911

I will get straight to the point, my rc10gt has had a crappy turning radius ever since I got it, I watched the video that came along with the car and his car was doing 180's no problem when he was driving it, my question is how do i get the turning radius to be that tight? I have all stock parts and would prefer to keep it that way. Another question is I have no brakes, when ever i press the remote forward it skids, and then just stalls out. Do I need to fine tune my car some more? I just got it working yesterday it has been in my closet for 2 years.

Thanks for all the help.

annie_himself

You need to turn the throttle trim up on the transmitter, that will stop the stalling problem. Are you driving on-power or off? What surface, stock tires?

daytimeninja

Yea, either adjust your throttle trim or idle screw. For the steering problem, check your servo to see if anything is damaged on it.

Oliver_Klozov

I ran into the same problem with my rc10gt all you need to do is toe your front wheels out a bit put a lead 14 .oz weight in the front and make the front shocks tight. You can turn up your idle a bit or turn the throttle trim up to stop it from stalling. Also you should have steering sensativity on your remote you might want to turn that up too. I prefer mine with the front toed in so it doesnt turn as fast b/c i made mine to go fast and it gets too sensitive when its going high speeds.

wow911

Thanks for all your help guys, I will try to do this stuff, but I don't think my driving servo is damaged because this is the 4th time I have ever used this car, and I don't know how to check my servo for problems. On my controller all I have are 4 turn switches. one for the throttle trim, one for steering trim, and 2 for the throttle atv one for hi anf one for lo. I have no idea what atv stands for. Then on the back of my remote their are two little switches one that says ST then 2 arrows one pointing up and one pointing down, they say N and R, the other switch is the same but instead of ST it is TH. Then by the throttle part of the controller there is a another thing I can turn I don't know what it is called. I have everythig stock on this car tires, controller. the controller is a Jaguar ASC it came with the RTR package. Sorry if you don't understand I am new to this stuff.

To annie:
I don't understand what you are saying driving on-power or off, I thought you could only drive with the car on, I am riding around in my street.

Edit: I just ran it outside and the steering is a lot tighter all I did was tighten this silver nut where the steering servo connects, now it is turning much better and I can do 180's. But I still have my stalling problem could it be a problem with my low-speed fuel mixture? When I turn the idle screw it seems like it isn't doing anything I adjust my throttle trim but then the idle is way up high and the car wants to take off as soon as I let it go, it stalls when I fully brake the car, is this a normal problem, lately it has been stopping my car that way instead of pinching the fuel-carburetor(sp.?) line.

2916jr

like when she is saying on power is whe you are on the gas while turning and off power means while coastingif you are on the gas and has a wide turning radius that is normal for a 2wd

Oliver_Klozov

You tightened your servo saver nut which acts as a shock for your servo if you crash you tires into something. You stand a really good chance of breaking your servo now.

rclynx

Another point for steering is the caster on your rear wheels (AKA TOE) if your street driving its a must to have your rear caster or toe set to 0, any caster or toe will cause a pushing effect on the front end. that causes a lot of turning problems on pavement or hard dirt (extra wide turns)[&o]

Oliver_Klozov

Thx lynx i didnt know that well i kinda did but never thought about it b/c i want stability over top speed.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Caster and toe are totally two different adjustments. Are you running sway bars? If so go softer on the front.

REDisFASTER

Driving "on-power" is while adding more throttle. Driving "off-power" is getting completely off the throttle and having your trigger in the neutral position.

Think of it this way (I'll use a real-car example for this).

Think of your car's steering wheel in neutral with your tires pointed straight. Now tie some string to your brake pedal and your gas pedal. Then tie them at 6-o'clock on your steering wheel. Make sure there's some slack in the two pieces of string. Now put the gas pedal all the way to the floor. Are you still with me? Now try turning the steering wheel. It You can only turn it probably around 30-degrees. Not much turning ability if you look at it, since your string lost all its slack. Do the same with the braking. Put the brake pedal all the way down and lock up your wheels. Now try turning. You get the same result.

What I'm trying to say is that you really can't turn if all of your car's weight is in the rear. There's no traction on your front tires, as the weight has all shifted backwards. When you add some braking, you can turn sharply, but it depends on how fast you were going before you started braking. If you're going fast, you need to do quite a bit of braking. But too much breaking and the momentum of the weight from the rear of your car will go forward. Too far forward that a) you lock up your wheels, or b) the weight shift continues going parallel to the direction the car is pointed in, and that momentum disturbs your tire's lateral grip, its ability to maintain in its desired course (where you point them), resulting in understeer.

Its not so much apparent with the GT, since its brakes are only acting upon the rear wheels. You probably need to properly set your steering trim and endpoints, as well as your brakes.

Hope that helps.

rclynx

It not my falt the idiots in RC call a caster setting Toe now is it............but there is a setting for toe on rear suspension.................and if you believe that your a bigger idiot than I thought...............you should get an education on suspension before you go correcting anyone 46u your not the last word on anything and just because I try to get the proper terms out there for the new people doesn't give you the right to try and correct something you obviously no nothing about[>:]

neilt6

Oh lol! HAHAHA!!!! I know EXACTLY what your problem is!!! The transmitter comes from the factory with the steering dual-rate fully on!!! I had the same rediculously wide turning radius and it took me like a week to figure it out!!!!! Just turn the little dial above your trigger until it stops and you'll be fine! [>:]

wow911

Wow that fixed it alot thanks so much, but yesterday I was running it and I took it off a jump and the cars throttle was stuck wide open, it got away from me but eventually hit a curb but the after result wasnt so pretty the glow plug was so hot it burrned the top of my piston in the engine, is it still safe to run? Can anyone give me some instructions on how to properly set up my engine to use the brakes instead of whenever I apply full brakes the car shuts off. it doesnt seem possible because the ide opening is suppost to have that 1/16"-1/32" opening and when I use brakes the opening shuts off no matter what.

neilt6

Ok, here's the fix. Your idle speed screw mostly takes effect after you hit your brakes, so if your car stalls when you hit them it's set too slow. You'll need to speed it up a bit then adjust your throttle trim until there is very little or no difference in RPM when braked or nuetral. I usually have mine set so that when I return to nuetral from driving, the car just barly wants to creep ahead, but after I hit the brakes it slows down a bit and stays put. That way, it's not pushing into corners, but not perpetually moving! [8D] Also, sorry to hear about your run-away. You should really invest in a failsafe like Dynamite's Race Guard Micro, it fits easily in your reciever box and doubles as a low battery alarm. As for the engine, if it runs fine I'd say run it until it dies. Even if it does break the first time you try it, your still only looking at a new piston + sleeve, although you should probably replace the plug, if it got THAT hot the coil could be damaged and might break off and fall into the engine, again costing your a new piston + sleeve. Hope that helps!

wow911

I replaced my glow plug luckily I had an extra around. The car still runs fine, I am still trying to figure out how to set the brakes though I am still tinkering with the idle getting it to work. How much is that little failsafe? It sounds like a neat little thing to put on the car. I am a little tight on cash though as I am going on a 2-week trip and saved up all of my money for that.

The_Shark

you can get a slightly larger duratrax micro failsafe for $13. it works great! it saved my @$$ three times at open throttle, it slammed the breaks and found the cause was a walkie talkie near by. it will also slam the breaks if the batts go dead.

i will never run again without one.

angus67

your rebuttle, mr 46u? camber is angle top to bottom of a tire (lean in or out) toe points in or out. if your tire leans in at the top, at high speed turns, more contact patch of the tire is on the road, more traction onthe turns. look at road race cars, and you will see that their steer tires lean in. when they run through a corner, inertia straightens the tire, squaring it to the road, more traction for turning. Toe adjustment, helps too in that when you turn, the inside tire on the radius of the turn, rotates faster, and the radius is redused, giving tighter turns. [:'(]

rclynx

LOL you don't have a rebuttle for your buddy M8............camber and caster are two different things. front and rear suspension are two different things. Number one there is no toe setting on rear tires and the cars that use bars to pull the tires in don't get the same effect as a proper camber and caster setting on the rear. Sorry if I hurt you boys feelings but you need to live in a real world and not use terms that some twerp dreamed up in the RC circle

angus67

I know dude! I just freakin agreed with you. My jatos rear tire have toe in, and I can put camber in the rear of it. maybe we just have different ways of saying the same thing. no worrys.