Spiro

I see you are in Brazil? How hot does it get where you run your RC cars? I have not talked with many people who run RC in the desert like me (Arizona, USA) and I am often curious what sort of heat issues people have. It often gets to 46-47C here during the summer. I do not think 130C on the cylinder head is out of line as long as you keep the mixture where it should be. If these Nova RC Products cylinder heads do indeed do a good job at reducing the temperatures, I could be interested

Thanks,
Spiro

cristianoepm

My brother usually run with the revo, before using the novarc colling head, at a temperature between 90-100 degrees Celsius and after changing the head he started to run between 70-75 degrees Celsius. Here in São Paulo in the summer the temperature rarely exceeds 30 degrees Celsius. But still my dbx runs with a temperature above the specified by the manufacturer, so that I want to find a head that's novarc manufactures that fit him!

thanks

su3zero

here in Rio de Janeiro is a bit hot than são paulo...
i tuned my car to run at 120º C.... but some times it goes to 150ºc... i know a guy with a fw05 (GXR 15) in a race the engine goes till 220ºC... and still work!!!

Cristiano, make a vido of your car with 14T and Jato pipe... i wan't to see how fast it is!

cristianoepm

Hey spiro, do you test another cooling head in your gxr .18???

thanks

Spiro

Cristianoepm,

I have only the stock cooling head for the GXR 18. Sorry, I do not know how any other head fits or performs on the GXR 18.

Spiro

MgSuPrA101

Just got my DBX today cant wait to try it out, Anyone have any Pre-measurments to take like what to lock tite and what needs lube? Also anyone have any tuning tips for these? Thanks

NITRO ACE

I don't have the manual in front of me, but it seems they tell you to use settings that are too rich and it floods the engine, makes it hard to crank, and the pipe fills up with fuel and it won't stay running. So back off or close the needles a half turn if this happens. I put a little blue loctite on the wheel nuts. Mine had loctite from the factory on the engine mounting screws and the clutchbell screw. I went through and tightened every screw. Concentrate on avoiding collisions with stationary objects (maybe you're more experienced than I was) because these are so darn fast. I have a DBX and a DST and they are great cars.

MgSuPrA101

Hey Nitro thanks for the input, yeah only if i could get mine running!!!!! Im having a problem with the High speel needle at the moment if you look through the other posts you'll see some pictures about it. It seems like its stripped almost because when i turn the needle the whole outter casing turns not just the needle in side, and when i go to tighten it, it does not tighten. But please see my post about it. I could use all the help possible =D

MgSuPrA101

its posted under the same forum btw. =)

Spiro

MgSuPrA101,

Did you get your issues sorted out with the high speed needle body?

Spiro

MgSuPrA101

Yeah Spiro its working nicely, just gotta tune it. BTW I think that bearing is leaking how do i replace it and what bearing should I buy ??

Spiro

Replacing the front bearing is somewhat involved. I would suggest trying to use as is for a while. If it doesn't give you problems tuning it, then perhaps you will be just fine. I have a lot less leaking and fewer tuning issues after swapping that bearing out, but I know some people don't have tuning issues as is. I can't guarantee that swapping a leaky front bearing will be the end of your problems either. I certainly still have issues with that engine.

But since you asked, the brief description would be:
-Order the bearing (I don't recall the size, I would have to remeasure)
-Remove engine
-Remove air filter
-Thoroughly clean engine exterior
-Remove clutch
-Remove flywheel nut and press off flywheel
-Remove cylinder head
-Remove back plate
-Remove cylinder sleeve
-Remove piston/con rod
-Remove crankshaft
-Press out old bearing
-Heat engine lightly with heat gun
-Press in new bearing

Then just reverse the order on everything and button it back up Of course you would have to make sure that no foreign objects got in the engine, everything is kept clean, and lube everything up with oil while you clean and resemble the parts. It's not that bad, but you do need to be careful and you do need a small gear puller to get the flywheel off. Having a press handy makes a big difference too. I would not recommend this to someone new to or uncomfortable working on engines.

For what it is worth,
Spiro

su3zero

check this videos... maybe will help you
http://blogurc.com/2008/09/30/limpezamotor/

MgSuPrA101

Okay and another question, Iv seemed to have screwed up the idle screw so now when i start the thing it wants to friggen take off and if i hold the break too long it starts to smoke which obivously isnt good. Is there a factory settin for the screw? Iv tried to turn it down like half a notch but then it like doesnt idle and boggs out. the HSN and LSN are set too factory. Any suggestions? I dont wanna blow the car up lol

NITRO ACE

There should be an idle tuning spot somewhere between smoking and stalling. Just keep trying tiny adjustments.

NITRO ACE

Hello all. I've been following along here since last november. Here are some pictures of my DBX, DST, and my kyosho multi-starter box 2 which works great for these cars. I have put spektrum receivers in both and I use hitec 5645MG digital servos for steering. The stock servos are still working for throttle/brake. My next steps are 5000-7000-2000 fluid in the diffs and kyosho sway bar kits have been shipped. I am hoping to race this spring when I find a track here in central ohio.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/9126

NITRO ACE

If I upload only two pics at a time it works fine. This starter box is soooo good! [sm=49_49.gif]

MgSuPrA101

Nitro thats some mad Nice stuff you got their, once I get some grades for mine i'll post pictures, I know how you feel about the track thing I dont have any within a 30 min drive.

NITRO ACE

Thanks, I bought a clear DBX body and painted it with pactra fluorescent spray paint and finished it with pactra white fluorescent cover coat. I was stunned at how nice it came out. In bright sunlight it looks awesome. It has a fluorescent blue stripe around the bottom that matches the blue features on the car. [sm=49_49.gif]

MgSuPrA101

Good Stuff, tomorrow I gotta fine tune mine a bit due to the whole idle needle being thrown off. But with all the goddamn snow we just got idk if i'm gonna be able to run =/ All hopes are high though. HEY btw anyone know where the Kyosho hop up parts are?

1nitrohead

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Nitro sent PM

racin in central Ohio has been going on for 22yrs now at same facility, Franklin Cty Fairgrounds In Hilliard. We are the oldest club and only club puttin on national level events with entries from outside the US. Our tracks are constantly changing with top notch racin. Check out web site
www.crcrc.com

Spiro

Nitro Ace,

Nice! I like the paint job. Do you have any trouble with the nitro fuel eating your paint? I have a body I am about to paint as well but want to make sure I won't have any fuel related issues.


Spiro

su3zero

NITRO ACE, your car looks great.... this black dishes wheel are great!!!!

when you go race, make some movies...

NITRO ACE

Thanks everyone. I'll be back after work tonight. Looks like I found a racing event to attend this weekend in Columbus. [sm=49_49.gif]

NITRO ACE

Hi Spiro. I liked your pictures of your DBX rebuild on flicker. At least I think they were yours?

I am sure fuel will compromise paint at least in the longterm. No immediate issues yet. I am looking forward to painting more bodies with the pactra fluorescent spray paint. Although the first one came out great I will use slightly less paint next time to give it more glow. This paint gives an intense pro-competition look.

I painted over the ugly scheme on my thunder tiger tomahawk st body (on the outside) with some leftover glow paint and it is uglier than the original. It is a shameful disgrace of a paint job, but on the bright side it could easily win an ugly truck contest!