I was really tired of not being able to run all of my 2.2 wheels due to the bearings needed for the front wheels.So i mounted the stampede c-hub and steering knuckle and now i can run my 2.2 wheels with a hex on the front.
All i had to do is drill out the c-hub with a 1/8' drill bit and readjust the camber and toe.

hey that looks pretty sweet.have you ever looked at steven slayden's article on traxxas.com about his offroad jato conversion?

Looks great, are you going to lower the gearing a bit to compensate? Probably a good idea, will help you keep some bottom end performance and will be easier on your clutch.

nitrofan12-no i have never read that or even herd of that guy.
sheograth-yeah i think i need to lower the gearing.Right now i'm running stock jato gearing 54spur and i can't remember the cb lol.I did loose some bottam end punch for sure and i seem to notice a faint squeek or high whistle sound only for a breif second but it happens every time i nail the gas.I thought it could be the slipper so i tightened it and i'll see how it is tomorow.But it also might be the cb bearings i did notice some lateral play when i was looking it over.

What is the lowest cb/spur you can get in a jato?

Here's the offroad jato article.
http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...cat=143&id=592

Thanks for the link.I'll try the gear selection they mention.
What about the squeeking/high pitch sound upon hard acceleration?and ideas?
What does a clutch bearing getting ready to go sound like?
How about the clutch,does it have any tell tale signs that it is going to go?
Would an alum 3 shoe clutch be a good choice for a clutch upgrade?if not what is good and relieable?

The tires looks like it's from a Tamiya Dual Hauler.

how much was it to convert it ??

just get 2.2 Agitator rims

I have alot of experience running big tires on my basher Jato. You are in for alot of suprises if not already hit you yet. I run the Imex 2.8 Baja wide's in rear and the 2.8 All terrain in the front. They are about as wide as monster truck tires (maxx tires) and just over 5 inches tall (a bit taller than moabs, mashers, and talons). The biggest difference is they will balloon up alot more than most if you dont tape them up good, they get massive. I love them for the extreme traction plus the ability to take your Jato in alot more area's than you could ever of done before. On the down side you will have a ton more stress on your transmission. You will notice you need a tighter slipper clutch cause of the extra traction it has now. Just dont over tighten it. Tighten it till it stops alot of that extra slipping and thats enough. If you tighten too far it will eat the tranny in well under a gallon of fuel. Even after you set it up as good as you can, you will wear out your tranny much faster and if you dont have metal drive shalfs yet you will eat the plastic ones up too. You will need to reverse your clutch shoe direction or it will eat that up and over heat your clutch bearings fast. By reversing the direction of the clutch shoes they will last. Definitlely lower your gear ratio. With mine I dropped down to 20 cb 54 spur. If your tires are bigger than mine you will need to drop it more. The Jato can go down extremely far in ratio might be able to slip even a 16 cb and 58 spur in there. I know they make even 15 cb's that will fit the Jato. The steering is going to be you next issue. The bellcrank used on the Jato steering is not designed to handle big tires and wheels, it was designed for fast responsive steering with smaller tires. As your steering starts to show signs of wear (wont turn the wheels as easy) you can crank down on the servo saver, but eventually it will probably crack the stock servo case. I just upgrade to all alum sero saver and put a better servo in mine, works ok then. I keep my battery pack in the middle to balance the truck off jumps with big tires. So much traction in grass esspecially that you will not even notice much loss with the weight further forward. With the battery in center and huge tires it does wonders for bigger jumps.

The tires and wheels are from my hpi wheely king.They are taller and wider than 2.2 moabs.To do the conversion all you need is the c-hub and steering arm from the stampede.All you need to do is drill the hinge pin hole in the c-hub with a 1/8 drill bit and reassemble the same way you took apart the jato c-hub and steering arm.

mspeed-Thanks for your insight.I tried the aluminum steering kit from new era and i had nothing but trouble with it.I keep stripping servo gears.No matter how i tighten the spring with the new era parts the servo saver keeps binding.When it flexes to save my servo it will not seat it self back in the notch.I tried running it loose and i tried running it tight and no matter what it binds it wont twist back.I put the stock plastic one on and it works like a charm but i really wanted to use the aluminum steering kit because it is stronger.any ideas?
I haven't had any issues with the drive shafts yet but i do plan on upgrading to some metal ones.How about alum tranny gears?That would be a bit stronger than the plastic gears,but i haven't had any problems yet and i have run 10 tanks.
I'm useing the 2055 servo for now but i have a futaba 3010 that i will install sometime this weekend.
Is the traxxas clutch shoe's ok or is aluminum clutch shoe's better and more relieable.Is there regular maitenence that needs to be done to stock clutch shoe's?
How can i tell my clutch is starting to go bad?
Thank you all for the help and comments

Ridgewalker, The stock clutch shoes work really well, the trick is you just need to make sure they are turning in the direction with the edge that is not pinned first followed with the trailing edge as the part with the fly wheel pin. Usually Traxxas ships all their trucks with the clutches on so they dont grab as easily. If you make sure you have yours reversed it will greatly help. I find no reason to go to a alum clutch set up. I have tried one before in my old Savage and they are great for performance, but mine wore out the clutch bell and didnt last too long. When you take off your clutch bell just look them over and if they dont look chewed up, just put them back in as I explained and you will be amazed how well they work. Make sure the little bearings are in good shape too. Everything is matimance free in the clutch assembly. As for the alum servo saver, I know what you mean about stripping gears and it not centering correctly. The set up on the Jato steering is hard to get it right espescially with the big tires. I am not a huge fan of the newera parts, I ended up getting the Hotracing alum servo saver, but it was still not that easy to get it right with the big tires. I would stay with the plastic one if you are having trouble. Now for the tranny, I would not get those Hotracing alum. gears. People have tried them and are reporting under load they tear up fast. You can buy the bronze ones off ebay if the guy ever post them again, but he wants like 90 dollars for them. I stick with the plastic Traxxas ones and just keep replacing them when they go out. You will have to make sure your slipper clutch is adjusted right or you will either slipp all over the place or if its too tight you will eat your tranny gears fast.

Make sure your geared down some too, It will take some of the load off the tranny. After I got mine all set up with everything, the only issue I am really having is the tranny gears will wear out faster than normal. My steering works fine but took alot of work to get it were I want it without breaking things. I have run a good 7 to 8 gallons of fuel (a whole engine life) on this set up and its a blast. My clutches lasted so far the whole life of this motor, just needed to replace the clutch bearings one time near the 4 or 5th gallon. I have gone through too many trannys to count during the time. When I first put a new 3.3 in it, I got maybe a gallon out of it before one of the gears in the tranny let go. Then after I got the slipper just right, I got maybe a gallon and a half out of it till then next gear stripped out. After the engine tappered off in power near the 5th or 6 gallon I started getting alot of life out of the tranny. Now this 3.3 is pretty much done, my power is very low. It still revs out to top end on a flat surface but takes too long heh. I am waiting on my Platium Revo before I replace this motor. My plan is to take the 3.3 out of my Plat Revo and put it in my basher Jato since my Jato is set up as a box start anyways.

Mspeed-well i ended up at the hobby store today and while i was there i picked up a couple clutch/flywheel set up's for the jato and my revo.I also got a 17t cb and a 56t spur.I know about the wearing of the shoe and cb and i plan on being on top of it .I only bash and race my wife with a revo (she drives the jato) on a backyard oval track with about a 150 foot straight so it gets into second about 20 feet out of the corner.Just so you can understand some what the driving conditions.

So how often will this clutch need to be serviced?I run through about a gallon a week.

Its so hard to tell how long each alum. clutch set up will last, some are harder alum. grades than others. If I remember correctly, my savage alum set up lasted about 3 gallons max give or take. I dont remember, but I can tell you without a doubt my stock clutches in reverse direction last and last, I dont ever have to think about it being a problem. You might like the alum. shoes for performance, mine just didnt last. On my revo I did the same thing with the shoes, reverse them. They held up on a .32 axial big block with gearing all the way to 18 cb 36 spur. After I maxxed out the gearing to 20cb 34 spur the stocks couldnt hold it, so I went to my savage 3 shoe set up (not alum). It was amazing how much those stock shoes could hold up to after they were reversed. If they were not reversed the big block would just tear them a new one.

I am pretty sure the stock shoe's are ok but i want to try the alum 3 shoe so i know first hand the difference between the two.It is suposed to rain here for the next two day's so i have to wait.What will i notice with the 3 alum. shoe's?

Well, its so hard to judge cause of the different types on the market and as you know I am not a fan of them. I can only tell you what I have found from my limited experience with mine on the Savage X. I noticed a more stable idle. I guess they are lighter on the savage than the stock ones, just seemed to idle better, I did have a nice engagement, good control over it. Just over all they were a bit better in low speed engagment and performance at idle. They wore out way too fast for me and ate into the clutch bell. For racing I would consider them. If those are integy, I have heard bad and good things from them.

No there not from integy.
I got them at my lhs here is a link to them http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=44321
They say the shoe's are 7075 time will tell.

Try anything as long as it's not a product of Integy. NEVER EVER EVERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR by an Integy product.

hey man i've been rained out for two days too.i live in biddeford maine.but anyway i like aluminum but it is true that reverse the clutch will last longer.go with what you feel like doing and if it does not work out then try somthing new untill you get the satisfaction you want from it

The rain cleared this afternoon.My back yard track was a bit wet but the jato didn't mind.I am very happy with the clutch.It is a quicker transition from stop to go and comming out of the corner it dosen't bog any more it just shoots rooster tales.
I also added a 17t cb and a 58t spur much better for the backyard track.I can now get to top speed before i get to the coner not as i get to it.

I am having trouble getting it into second.I had this problem before and i do think my lsn is out of adjustment but i only had a 1/2 tank left when i started fooling with it.Note to anyone, make sure you have plenty of fuel if your going to start making adjustmentsI ran through two 500cc fuel bottles todayand then i ran out of fuel
So do you think the lsn is lean or rich,it does hesitate a bit(as long as it takes to say "one" quickly.It's a 2.5, 20%nitro running around 220-230 outside temp 47*f.

it is not your lsn the only time that comes to play is from a idol to getting on the gass everything else is the hsn. Get your car up to op temp and then let it idol for a few seconds then gun it (make sure you are at factory setting first for lsn).when you hear it gurgle and pop and almost die lean it 30 degrees. keep doing this till your car lights up on the start and you lsn will be set and 9 times out of 10 you will never touch it again.

Thank you Toki.
I got it all tuned up today It's running great 230* 20% out side temp 70*f and the air pressure was the same as yesterday(i have a home weather station)I still can't get it to shift into second and i now have plenty of room to open it up but it won't shift!I tried turning the adjustment screw for the shift timming in the tranny,i turned it toward sooner a 1/2 a turn.I don't know if that was enough but i didn't want to loosen anything up that shouldn't be.So how sensitive is the adjustment screw?Is therea way to tighten it down then back it out "X" number of turns like you do with the hsn?

I would not tighten it down unless you want to have it shift later. You can damage the spring if you start cranking it down all the way. Sometimes going to bigger tires like that takes more than a half a turn out to get it to shift to 2nd. Try another half a turn looser. Dont loosen too far or you will have that adjuster screw hit second gear and cause alot more issues. I have sprayed wd-40 into the adjusting hole in the tranny to help the clutch work better. It shouldnt hurt anything inside the tranny to use wd-40. Quarter or half turns is the most I turn it before testing it again.