this is the standard shaft, you may need a different size http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJL62&P=0
all this needs is a 6 cell with a tamiya plug http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMHR7&P=7

ah i see better just to buy a new motor or pull starter.

Look at the tube that leads from the gas tank to the pipe and hold your finger over the pipe when starting and when gas flows through the tube pull back your finger fast and it should start. Good Luck!

Yeah tried that and got a bark but nothing more. Drill also slips alot to so it hard to get it to start with the stupid drill. I can get a recoil for $29.99 free shipping off of ebay for it so i might just do that later and see if it will start. If not it will be someone else's problem.

Fuel purps out of the carb. So is it loading up or something else going on? Also how hard is it to covert a nitro truck to battery powered?

look at stormer hobbies nitro engine clearence sale they have a peak .15 for 39 .00 also about a week or two ago i got a hot bodies .18 for 34.00 from them you have to know where to look

whats the temp out? nitro engines hate the cold. you may have to wait for wormer weather.

It sets in my house.

guarantee you its just the tuning if you can get it to hit for a second or two, and you know for sure that there are no problems with fuel feeding.

tuning...

high speed screw should be 4 turns counter clock from stopped
low speed should be flush with the edge of the slide valve. about 1.5 turns from stopped

this might help with the fine tuning

http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_se...&highlight=276

Thanks for the replies guys. I do thing i need to adjust the settings but first i need a pull starter.

Hey guys the guy who is selling this on ebay says it comes with bearing included.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Now is that the right pull start for a .16torq motor?

it should work, but it doesnt say anywhere a word about a bearing included.

listen to these other guys, if you can buy a pull starter and bearing for 40-50 dollars and an entire new engine with all that stuff plus guaranteed results and probably more power for 70 or so, why wouldnt you do that?

Yeah then i have a nitro motor sitting in my house not able to run... I don't need anymore stuff in my house wife is already wanting more stuff gone.

Also who is gonna buy a nitro motor that can't be started? I will get rid of the motor if i could get it started and buy a new one. But since i cannot say the motor runs who is going to buy it?

I agree with pig
the auction does not mention a bearing so I doubt one comes with it (never bought duratrax so no idea in all truth), but for the engines I own I know the pullstarters do not come with the bearings.
OWB's are usually $20ish for most models and could be a pain in the ass to locate one that would fit that pull starter

My idea for how to re-purposing old nitro engines(I actually do this). Take it dump it in a bucket of degreaser and then use a dremel bit to polish it up. You get a very attractive paperweight, and conversation starter.

Hmm problem is i don't know if the truck is really worth a new nitro motor though. I mean it is beat. Plus i can't get the back tires off cause the hub assembly in both rears need replacing. I might just take the electronics out of it and get rid of the rest of the truck.

true it is kind of trashed. Might be best to cut your losses seeing RWD trucks are kinda cheap(price wise) anways. If it was 4wd than it might have been worth repairing.
Kind of wish I did on my 1st nitro(which was bought used). Instead I've replaced everything EXCEPT the spur gear, and front & rear diff with modern updated parts within the 8 months I've owned it. I'm only glad MT1 parts and MT2 parts are almost completely interchangeable.

I'd still keep it though you might be able to cannibalize it later for parts on another project. Kinda like what I did to my Nitro RS4 onroad car used a pile of parts in other Frankenstein jobs .

How hard is it to change it to electric? I have a motor laying around that i could use.

usually simple
slap a motor where the engine is with a fabricated motor mount I found a cheap chinese L-Bracket airplane motor mount worked nice in mt MT1 conversion. Gut the nitro parts and slap a battery on (I like using a stampede chassis for the battery box ) and glue a ESC somewhere and go
I did a 4wd truck would immagine a 2wd one would be simpler

Kewl i will see what i can come up with. Maybe i can fabricate a bracket for the motor?

Oh yeah will a 24turn motor work in place of the nitro motor?

check your glow plug to see if thats lighting up, if it is then id reset you needles to the factory settings so you can at least get that out of the way, if its not firing then spin the flywheel over with your finger and see if the motor has any compression if it dose not then its time for another motor for ya. id upgrade to something non durtrax engine, the trx 3.3 is one of the best bang for the buck you can drop in

thats actually the tower hobbies nitro stadium truck, they sell the entire truck with out a radio for 119.00

Yeah but i have one awesome nitro and this one has been a pain in the bleep. So that is why i am going to convert it over to electric.

might I've been running a 27t Saturn in a spare Nitro MT1 I had laying around