Official RC10GT Thread
 

oh ok, but what peforms better?

Official RC10GT Thread
 

For a beginner, I'd just go with the rotary. I dont think youd tell much of a performance difference between the rotary and slide carbs.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Stay with the rotary unless you have a good radio that you can set throttle servo travel end points and servo expo. The setup you have to use for a slide carb requires very little servo travel causing the servo to stall out before it reaches its max. movement with a standard radio. The slide carb does give a little better all around performance and fuel mileage. Most racers at our club use them. The picture of my truck in a previous post shows the slide carb linkages and servo setup.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Is there a choice between rotary and slide carb when u pick an OS .15?
Well, im still waiting for my ft gt....im so bored..
has any one of u made a jump in your backyard or something where u use just for bashing??
because where i live there aren't any good bashing places... i want solid jumps! how can i make one?
I was thinking about just putting a pile on sand in when area, pour water onto it, shape it up a little bit to make a good jump and then just leave to dry in the sun for a day or two,,,?

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Hey Master,

Try just digging up dirt. It's stronger. Also, if you can, get a few cinder blocks and a wooden board.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

go to kmart/walmart/sports store, and get a cheap ($15?) plastic ramp (skateboard/bmx thing) its not too high, but you can put stuff (boards) under it and bury it in mud , let it dry and it looks like you have made a nice big jump by hand lol, or, i used to make a lot of my own bike jumps, its messy but its worth it, get a wheelbarrow, put your dirt in it (usually a mix between dry dirt and clay dirt is good) and slowly ad water whille tearing up dirt and mixin with a small hoe, spade, hand etc, then when it is thick, but still able to pour, pour it where you want the jump, shape it the best you can, let it dry a few hours, shape it more, let it dry some more, etc, and when it is completely dry you can add more mud to sides where it needs it , takes 2 days to actually be jumpable, but the jumps are rock solid and pretty cool looking

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Yea, thats what i was gonna do jamiels :), I could actually make a track... hmmm... btw my friend got a really really good deal with this guy, the kyosho v one ss or rr, not sure what it's called, well he got for 350$ with two futaba s3003 servos, a OS .12 cvr, aluminium hop ups, 2 speed, he just needs a radio and hes about ready to go...
the guy hasn't used the car and its brand new, no scratches everything clean..

Official RC10GT Thread
 

I put the first bucket of water on to it yesterday, lookin quite good... still gotta wait a bit tho...
its about 3 - 4 feet high...

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Excellent. A bit of advice, DON'T UPGRADE TO ALUMINUM!!!!! Plastic breaks, so you can catch a mistake before it becomes too late. Aluminum will warp and can have serious consequinces if not caught in time.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

My friend has his v one ss without pull start, and it seems like a pain in the ***** .... u gotta carry this big thing around with ya, pullstart rules! :) no but his car, is really fast i must say...

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Really, a bump sarter is better because it lasts a hell of a lot longer, and a pull starter breaks very easily, so even though it runs a higher cost, over time, you spent less money.

FT GT...
 

Hey, I just got my factory team GT a few days ago. It came with a Megatech M16, I was hoping it would be a lot faster then it is. Other then that, it is pretty nice, I am thinking about getting a Fantom .12 or .15. Here's a pic of it:

Official RC10GT Thread
 

I just got the refurbished RTR plus from AE and its broken in and it runs great. I have the idle set just high enough so it idles without stalling, but it still wants to roll while its idling. I know theres a way to adjust the clutch, but idno how. This is my first nitro. Please help. Maybe i just need a new clutch. What are some good ones?

Also, the radio sucks because both ATV knobs broke off and there was no way to fix it. I just had to solder two of the leads together on the circuit board so now the ATV is set on the highest setting.

This is a very good truck in general because I ran it into a curb angled at 90 degrees at full speed. Instead of breaking the bumper or anything on the front, it just moved the engine forward.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Hey dadams did ur kit come with the engine? how much? I think u should get a fantom or OS... how was the gt to build?

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Well I got my ft gt!! I got it on tuesday and I nearly finished, I thought I would take about a week to build! 2 days! lol i just have to install the sevos, radio fuel tank and the .15 O.S :)
When I start to break in, ill let u guys know how it is..
i gota question... do i HAVE to replace the spur gear and clutch bell with new and better ones? or can i do that later?

Official RC10GT Thread
 

You don't have to change anything unless you want to.

I just started reading-hope I'm not too late
 

Do not put blue thread locker on EVERY screw. Do not put it on any screws that go into the black molded material, like the transmission, unless it is somewhere that you can put a nut on the other side of it, then you can put thread lock on the nut. If you use thread lock on the screws that hold the trans to the chassis, when you take the screws back out the threads come out with them sometimes. I learned this from working on someone elses truck. I had to buy several parts just because the threads were gone.
Put thread locker on the muffler screws and all motor mount screws. Motor to mounts and mounts to chassis.
One place you may want to do a little carving and put a nut on the backside of it: Where the ball ends go into the rear bulkhead. Carve or grind with a dremel until you can put a nut on the end of the ball end on the other side of the bulkhead. I'll see if I can take a closeup pic and post it later.
I have a HPI NitroStar .12 with a slide carb in my GT. The thing flies! Not even the big money guys at the closest track where I live can out run my down the straightaways. I'm pretty fair in the turns also, but I need to work on my setup. A few of the guys have gave me some setup tips to try, but I haven't done it yet.
Here is a pic of my GT when it is fixed for playing around. I call it my GT MAX! It is a blast to drive with those Masher 2000 tires on it, and my motor has plenty power to turn 'em around.

NitroStar

Official RC10GT Thread
 

im gettin a RC10GT Plus RTR within the next two weeks and was wonderin what tips you guys had for me to make it backyard bashing proof. Also what kind of upgrades would make it race compatible as well as bashing compatible?
thanks

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Get all the RPM stuff and get some titanium turnbuckles.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

If you plan on racing i'd just get a factory team kit and build off of it.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Go with dad's idea's. Also, plop in a fantom 12 engine. It is one of the MOST POWERFUL engines out there. It is also the highest class of engine you can use in stadium truck competitions.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

rb .12 slide carb w/turbo
the fastest motor ive ever used except its not roar legal, if you dont plan on racing in any ROAR races than dont worry bout that.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Who makes RB engines (full name of company, website)?

Official RC10GT Thread
 

yea i dont think im gonna be racin it too high up in the ranks and also i dont have an unlimited budget being a teenager. but i do like the rb .12 with the turbo. i heard that one flys. and i am curious and interested by the fantoms. but again, since i am fairly new to this hobby, i am kinda leaning towards the O.S. .15 CV-R but i mean im not 100% positive.

Official RC10GT Thread
 

Here is my factory team GT...Novarossi engine, everything else stock. I am not finished with it yet, have not had the chance to run it either.