Need to slow this Focus Sport down a bit, for landing. I am practicing Sportsman, on final, turn, throttle down, almost to idle, let sink, flatten out, nice, but still cannot bleed off speed enough, get it on the ground, long roll out, this is on grass. On hard surface, this will be a long run. Should I set up further out, fly it in at lower altitude? I have never used wing adjuster's, they are there, it is set according to Troy Newman's build thread. If I adjust the LE up, equal turn's on the TE, can I get a better stall attitude, to slow down? From final I am just trying to "drop it in".

I am not an expert here on adjustment's, etc.

Vince

Hi Vince!

Check your idle. It might be too high. Should be around 1800 to 2200 revs.

Try low glide path instead of dropping from high approach.

Head wind conditions and a big wing loading makes it worse.

Never adjust the wing for landing. Only for normal flight.

on final use the elev for speed control and the throttle for height. Once you "Load" the airplane up in the turn to final you want to fly the airplane a bit nose high. Once you have the airplane set a bit nose high you then use the elev to speed the airplane up or down, if you add throttle the airplane will go up. It takes practice and a low idle is good but you'll find you need to add a tiny bit of power to stretch the landing to center, it's much easier to stretch the approach to center than slow the airplane down once close to center. Once close to center and the ground you'll flair it a bit more and slow the airplane down to a near stall condition right where you want it.

A good thing to practice is to fly the airplane to a stall for spins. The exact same principle applies to spin entry as landing.

Tim

Tim, Alex - Thanks. Slowest I can get this YS110S, is 2150 RPM, on 14X8 APC. I am not pulling down to minimum idle, so probably at around 2450-2500 RPM on landing. Trying to stretch the landing, as you said, Tim.
Look's like adding just a little power, it has been gaining altitude from decent approach, sometime I have to go around, and as you know, contest, only land once. Thin airfoil here. On my smaller pattern plane's, thicker semi-symm airfoil, get it to almost a walk. This bigger plane, new experience here. Throttle/elevator, need more practice on that. Nice set up, no wing dropping off.

Vince

Hey Vince,
I set up all my engines with the kill switch option and stop the engine before landing. This habit dates back to the '70s when I'd compete off paved runways and didn't have brakes.
The Focus Sport has very thin wings and is pretty lightly loaded (wing loading); so it will fly a long ways with very little power. You can try less pitch and more diameter on your prop, but I prefer not to choose a prop size just to facilitate landing. Of course, the bottom line is practice!
Happy Flying,
Will

Right Will, practice. I have been away from it for a while, hit a contest now and then, but starting to get more active. I am thinking of a 15X7 on the front, lot of spare power here.

Vince

Program in about 10mm of spoileron. Huge difference.

NEVER use flaperon.

Yep, Kill that lift, and you can come in at a more nose high angle, giving yourself more frontal area-which is more-drag, and grease that baby onto the deck!

I dunno what fuel you're using and what RPM you're getting but that sounds a bit on the small side for a 110S? Maybe something like a 15x8 will help slow the model down and load the engine more to get a slower idle? Just a thought. I get away with running a 15x10 on my 110FZ, but I think I'll prop down soon.

Spoileron, prop change. I am using Pro-Pattern 20%. Thanks to all for valuable info. Going to get a few 15 X 8 APC's today. Crashlander suggested a prop change also. This is the FZ 110. I did find another NIB 110FZ, finishing up another Focus Sport. While on here, Central says the new YS 115 will be in around end of November. I realize these Focus Sport's are fine for my stage of flying experience, just average. What is available for just a small steip up from the F. Sport. I have been looking at the 110 Elation Rapture from the UK, manufacture starting in January.

Vince

As renegade Said; raise that nose while go idle and speed will substantially decrease. And definitively the 14x8 is not the prop. there... go to 15x8 and you'll be great.
Check also the thread about centering and balancig planes; there are a lot's of tips bouncing on there that will really help you not only in landings... check it, you won't be dissapointed.
Cheers
Guille

Vince,

Having flown quite a few of these, they are VERY slippery planes. I would cut your power earlier and get rid of more speed on the down wind. If you end up carrying any power as Tim said, do it once the plane is loaded so that it doesn't pick up any speed. The prop really wont make a big difference on landing as a 14X8 at your idle speed really isn't pulling a lot anyway, but it is is small enough that it wont give you much breaking, so if you get out of the power earlier and come in a little lower as to not have to dump much altitude on final this will help also. Spoilerons also work well. I actually use flaperons dropped about 1/4". I have to mix in some up elevator, which I just fly through it, but it does create a little more drag.

Arch

Crankpin, that is actually the model I'm flying my 110 in. Very nice indeed
I don't have a camera so don't have any shots of it complete. It's a bit draggier than my last airframe, I've found landing it a dodle so far.

Splendid!!!
Steve has me on the list... let's hope I can get mine next year...

That is a REALLY nice airplane. I hope they become available in the states.

Arch

Just call steve; as far as I know he already sent several to US.

www.elation-f3a.co.uk

Rgds.

Best part is you give him a colour scheme, and he makes you your personalised ARTF! Don't have to worry about oil getting under the covering either as the fus is painted...

Here is their Zephyr.

Spoilerons!<div>Brings my old super slippy Hydeout down real quick, and so stable due to he added washout effect.</div><div>Without them, it's an engine cut on the down wind leg and a long glide.</div><div>My Focus (basically a Hydeout wing and stab with a balsa body) acted exactly the same.</div><div>Either way, I've gone over to the engine cut method on finals.</div><div>Everybody seems to be doing that with IC power F3A.</div>

YS 115.....Used to be the YS 110....used to be the YS 90. It seems they just keep on crankin out one model after the other, leading the Pattern community by the nose.

Why not get a 120FZ and be done with it. That had to be about as sweet running as their YS60 round head 2 stroke, back it the day. Are they not making 120FZs anymore? Too bad if yes....it is a fine engine for the smaller airframes

I have a 1.20FZ and it's the best non-complaining-easy-to-live-with YS I've owned, better than the almost equally friendly 1.40FZ-Sports.<div>Can't get 'em anymore. Sad.
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Not an expert here, except the new 115 is supposed to be the cure-all for all the hassle's of setting up the 110FZ. Took me a while to just learn it, after using 2 stroke's, now it is running like a Timex. Included here, Atul from CA, picked one up in Japan, his experience with the 115.================================================== ================================================== ==================================================

I finally managed to run the YS115 (that I picked up last week in Japan), today. Here are the results.
Prop: 16x8
Fuel: 30% Nitro with 20% oil (all synthetic: Klotz)

Starting was a breeze. There is no regulator to mess with so the engine is obviously a lot simpler to set up and run than the YS110 (which I also have).

I set the HSN to 2.25 turns just to keep it extremely rich and ran the engine at about 3000 RPM for about 10 mins. This was followed by a complete cool-down. Ran it again for two 10-min periods at about 3500 RPM. With the HSN set to 2 turns out, the engine runs *extremely* cool. In fact, at 3000 RPM the engine got downright cold on one of the runs and cut the Glo! Running it at 4000 RPM ensured it worked well.

After two full 400cc tanks, I decided to check the top-end while still keeping it rich. At about 1.8 turns out, the engine hit 9450 RPM at peak. I did not want to lean it in any further since it's brand new. I'm pretty sure it will hit 9600+ with a 16x8 once run in properly (15+ flights at least).

Transition: with a 16x8 prop, the transition between 3000 and 7000 RPM was very good indeed. After 8500 RPM, the move to 9400 takes slightly more time (probably because the engine is new). For most pattern flying, however, the transition should prove to be excellent. The new regulator seems to be set up so as to keep the whole run a little rich, which is probably a good thing.

I did notice that, like the YS110, the engine is extremely sensitive to the HSN setting. Going even slightly lean (1.7 turns, in this case), resulted in the engine heating up almost immediately. So the key seems to be to keep it on the richer side, as with the YS110.

Low-speed Setting: After about 3 full tanks and setting the HSN to 1.75+ turns, checked the Low-speed setting. The factory setting was definitely right. As with the YS110, there's an air-bleed screw which has to be turned counter-clockwise to lean the low-end. With the factory setting, the engine would get progressively rich if run just below 2000 RPM. After three 1/4 turns, the LSN was finally set properly. The engine now idles fairly reliably at 1900+ RPM and transitions well. The HSN setting does seem to affect the low-end somewhat, in the sense that if the HSN is too rich then the transition after a *long* idle can sometimes result in hesitation. But this could simply be because the engine is brand new.

Overall, the engine is excellent: very easy to set up (as long as one keeps it rich - any lean run will seriously mess up the piston-rings/piston: I know, since I've done it twice with a previous YS110!). Transition is excellent with a 16x8, and should be similar with a 15x10, though I plan to continue with the 16x8 for a while.

Flight testing this weekend with a Focus Sport. The 115 is already bolted in. Can't wait to get it in the air!

Atul Saini

Didn't see any mention of CG - if CG is forward, the plane will land faster. More aft CG will let the tail drop on landing and plane present itself to the wind, rather than gain altitude. Small change makes a big difference.

Of course your CG should be set for flying, but when I was flying my Venus in Sportsman I didn't realize how forward my CG was as I was used to it.

Excellent, excellentadvice Tim,. Practice it that way Vince and eventually you will know just how much elevator you need rolling out on final (you'll get a sight picture of the planes attitude). I do reference the background for that, something as near horizontal as I can find on the approach path. For me it doesn't matter if it's above or below the flight path, it's simply visual cue for referencing the attitude I want.

Mark

Definitely get off the power earlier. I throttled back my Sport when it passed me on the downwind. I powered up some if needed once the nose was up on final. I liked to use 2% or 3% flaperon to increase drag on final. Once runway is confirmed I killed the engine.

My YS 110 would swing a 15x10 with no problem at all.