Yamada YS 175 CDI
#1
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From: ORANJESTAD, ARUBA
Well boys it looks like soon they will be available at Central Hobbies and it would be nice to have this thread here to talk about performance and reliability etc. it looks like the 175 is much more reliable and has much design improvement over the 170.
It also seems that the 175 can run on much lower nitro content less $ and deliver awesome power.
It also seems that the 175 can run on much lower nitro content less $ and deliver awesome power.
#2
It works from 0 to 25% nitro
Idle on the 170 is 1500 and 175 is 1200!!
Prop is 20x10.5 top RPM 6000 to 8000(if recall correctly from the manual)
It is identical to the 170, but they went back to the old carburator without the needle for the cranckcase cooling.
Better termination on the hall sensor in the back plate, and the spark plug cap is bigger and better.
Regards
Alejandro P.
Idle on the 170 is 1500 and 175 is 1200!!
Prop is 20x10.5 top RPM 6000 to 8000(if recall correctly from the manual)
It is identical to the 170, but they went back to the old carburator without the needle for the cranckcase cooling.
Better termination on the hall sensor in the back plate, and the spark plug cap is bigger and better.
Regards
Alejandro P.
#3
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From: saint just, FRANCE
Apereira gives some general caracteristic of the YS 175CDI but is anyone which do RPM's measurement on some propellers such as 19x11 apc or 20x10.5 apc ?
regards
steph
regards
steph
#6
RPM with the 19x11 or 20x10.5 is around 7600 when the engine is new, so during break in the engine performs as a broken in 170, actually you can go directly to 20x10.5 on break in.
As Don mentioned above, this engine is the best running YS yet, extremely easy to set, and the vibration at idle seems to be half of the 170.
Yamada told me APC was working an a new prop for it, 21x10 I think it was, but not 100% sure, time will tell.
Regards
Alejandro P.
As Don mentioned above, this engine is the best running YS yet, extremely easy to set, and the vibration at idle seems to be half of the 170.
Yamada told me APC was working an a new prop for it, 21x10 I think it was, but not 100% sure, time will tell.
Regards
Alejandro P.
#7
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From: ORANJESTAD, ARUBA
Yes we do and there`s a guy from France who has won the F3A Worlds 6 times and flies some GLOW powered plane with some sort of GLOW engine and i think he enjoys it too[8D] 

Just kidding
..!!!.


Just kidding
..!!!.
#8
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From: saint just, FRANCE
<![if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:view> <w:zoom>0</w:zoom> <w:hyphenationzone>21</w:hyphenationzone> <w
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</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">regards</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">steph
</span></p>
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</span></p>
#10
Hello Steph,
Measurement, I will let you know more as soon as the engines start to get loose after a few flights, note this is with 30% nitro, not 25% as recomended. On the next flight I will get you exact numbers, as once the engine is set the first time there is no need to recheck RPM, and the RPM increase with flights.
Christophe and Benoit have been flying with the 175 for over a year now I think, they can give you exact numbers as they tried the engine from the start I guess, I will give them a call if I were you, they might know more about the new coming prop.
Regards
Alejandro
Measurement, I will let you know more as soon as the engines start to get loose after a few flights, note this is with 30% nitro, not 25% as recomended. On the next flight I will get you exact numbers, as once the engine is set the first time there is no need to recheck RPM, and the RPM increase with flights.
Christophe and Benoit have been flying with the 175 for over a year now I think, they can give you exact numbers as they tried the engine from the start I guess, I will give them a call if I were you, they might know more about the new coming prop.
Regards
Alejandro
#11
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From: saint just, FRANCE
thanks Alejandro for your helps,
have you done good flights ?
I know what you say for the increase of RPM in flight
I interested in the performences of engines serie''s and not in the performence of "selected or prepared" engines as it is the the case for Benoit or Christophe engine.
regards
steph
have you done good flights ?
I know what you say for the increase of RPM in flight
I interested in the performences of engines serie''s and not in the performence of "selected or prepared" engines as it is the the case for Benoit or Christophe engine.
regards
steph
#12
Sure thing Steph, I will let you know how it performs for sure. I will do a comparison between the 170series(as there are 3) and the 175 once I have more data.
Best regards
Alejandro P.
Best regards
Alejandro P.
#15
You could use a Mezlik prop, but there are no 3 bladed prop specific for the 170/175, I remember Quique Somenzini used in Argentina a repitched APC 15x12 if I am not mistaken, I used that prop on the 160 and did not liked it at all, his was special.
#16

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From: oakland,
CA
Is the engine for a fixed gear pattern plane? If yes, you can fit a pair of gear designed for the electrics, they are usually longer than the glow version. I'm using a 20.5x10 PN prop on my 175, & still have enough clearance.
Adrian
Adrian
#17
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: felker14
Any one have long term update on this engine? What would be good 3 blade prop (need ground clearance)?
Thank you
Any one have long term update on this engine? What would be good 3 blade prop (need ground clearance)?
Thank you
I think that Biela and Menz make an 18x12 3 blade woodie. I've not usedeither so I can't vouch for performance or sound.
Mezjlik has an 18x10 carbon 3 blader which I have used on my OS GT33. Works adequately...not quite enough prop tho. And sound was only average. A 12 pitch would be much better.
It might besimpler andless costly in the long runto put on a longer gear set that will handle the 20" props. If you need something lighter than most, I can help
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From: saint just, FRANCE
My RCGF 32 run the 20,5x10 between 7000 to 7100 rpm. to compare this result with the 175CDi I ask to Christophe (CPLR) if he had measure this propeller he said me 7050 rpm. so what is interesting in this result is that it is obtained with basic fuel for the RCGF and with ultra rich nitro fuel for the YS .... the OS 33 gt is in the same case than the RCGF.
#19
Well... my 175CDI on 20x10.5 turns at 7880 with 30/23 and about the same with the 20.5. that is with 30% Cosmo, on Coollpower 30% I get 100RPM less with identical setting (means just changing fuel, no needle or reg adjustment), I do not know the height where Christophe flies, but know he uses 25%. BTW I have never seen a YS 175 running at just 7050RPM, he might have it limited.
#21
You have to use after-run oil to prevent corrosion, besides that, there is nothing better than use after-run and remove the engine then store y in a ziplock bag. I have only used good fuel, Power Master, Cool Power and some Cosmo (very difficult to get), and the fuel is definitely the only variable which is responsible for the engine condition under proper storage, and even though they say they have anti oxidants etc, good maintenance practices are above any else.
The engine is very reliable provided, good fuel is used, good plug and valve maintenance and very good tune in, the later determines if an engine will be a great engine good for 400 flights without dis-assembly or a nightmare after 100 or 150 flights.
Regards
The engine is very reliable provided, good fuel is used, good plug and valve maintenance and very good tune in, the later determines if an engine will be a great engine good for 400 flights without dis-assembly or a nightmare after 100 or 150 flights.
Regards
#22

ORIGINAL: apereira
You have to use after-run oil to prevent corrosion, besides that, there is nothing better than use after-run and remove the engine then store in a ziplock bag.
Regards
You have to use after-run oil to prevent corrosion, besides that, there is nothing better than use after-run and remove the engine then store in a ziplock bag.
Regards
For long term storage I remove the plug, flood the engine with oil then spin the excess out with a starter.
Then I remove the cam cover and fill it up then put the cover back on.
After each flying session I open the carb and turn the engine so that the intake port is open then add oil down the intake, then spin with the starter.
There are no starting or plug flooding problems at the next session.
I've been doing this for several years now on all the motors I have and the bearing life has increased noticably as well as elimination of corrosion.
Dave
#23

ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
After each flying session I open the carb and turn the engine so that the intake port is open then add oil down the intake, then spin with the starter.
After each flying session I open the carb and turn the engine so that the intake port is open then add oil down the intake, then spin with the starter.
I just shut the motor down with the throttle, drain the tank and put the plane away although it's only about 4 weeks max between runs. Replace the bearings every year and no signs of rust, but I live 100 miles away from the closest ocean and don't suffer from high humidity. I also try to leave the engine in a position where the valves are closed and the throttle barrel is shut (ie not cracked open in the idle position) so the engine is "sealed". Can't say that it works but leaving the throttle half open with a valve or two open as well just seems to be inviting moisture (and oxygen) into the engine...




