OS 1.60 for a 2x2
#2
My flying buddies use to use the OS 160, the only thing is it is an on/off engine, no torque below half throttle, so you need full power for pretty much all verticals, and if the maneuver is huge it might lack power, it also depends on the airframe, they used on a Camodel Eclipse and Epsilon. Prop APC 16x13 and 17x12 if I remember correctly.
Best regards
Alejandro P.
Best regards
Alejandro P.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Claysville,
PA
I'm using one now in a Brio with a 18.1" x 10 prop. Works good for me, I haven't had any problems. Depending on the weight of your plane.
Bill
Bill
#4

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Orlando,
FL
At the Nats last year I was flying a borrowed plane belonging to Don Lowe and it had an OS 1.60. Flew great. His son John Lowe wrote an article on setting up the 1.60 for pattern , I believe you can google O.S 1.60 cook book and still find it...
#5

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Orlando,
FL
Found it, here is the link :
http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/u...77/Yw67801.pdf
http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/u...77/Yw67801.pdf
#7
Actually I just remember a pilot I do not remember from which country flew at the WC 2009 with it, and had no problems. If I am not wrong that engine can go up to 25% Nitro.
Regards
Alejandro P.
Regards
Alejandro P.
#9

My Feedback: (56)
ORIGINAL: underdw
It will be great! I can't believe more don't use them for entry-mid level 2m planes. Cheap, reliable, good power, low nitro fuel.
It will be great! I can't believe more don't use them for entry-mid level 2m planes. Cheap, reliable, good power, low nitro fuel.
Anyway, good luck.
#11

My Feedback: (42)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Randolph,
NJ
In the power department, the OS 1.60 is not a match for the Webra 1.60 (if you could get one). However, the OS is easier to handle, even when considering the setup mods that turn it into a reasonable Pattern engine. When a Webra 1.60 was set up right, it was a wonderful thing to behold. When it wasn't right, it could bite you hard. The OS is fairly easy to get going with a VP30 pump tapped into the backplate, and with close attention to the low end needle being adjusted right.You just need to remember that the carb on the OS was never meant to run in a pressurized fuel system, so it will definitely flood in the low end to mid range if you don't crank the low end needle way down.
When using a pump, for starters, you want to completely close the low end needle, and then open it up just enough to let a little air through when blowing through a tube connected to the carb intake. Thatshould be less than 1 turn open. Once you get it started, run it above mid-range, for a few tanks, usthe pinch method and so forth to make sure it's rich enough, and then start messing with the low end needle at and below mid-range. If it loads up and stumbles when re-opening the throttle, then you need to close the low end a little more until that stops happening. If instead it tends to stay up in RPM a bit and sound whiny/tinny (andif it tends to get hot)as you close the throttle, then the low end is set too thin. If it quits, but not from loading up with fuel, try opening it up a bit. If should not be dripping a bunch of fuel, or obviously, it's too far open. Be patient, you have to develop an ear for the right sound.
Or, as 80% of everyone else will tell you, you could just go electric...
When using a pump, for starters, you want to completely close the low end needle, and then open it up just enough to let a little air through when blowing through a tube connected to the carb intake. Thatshould be less than 1 turn open. Once you get it started, run it above mid-range, for a few tanks, usthe pinch method and so forth to make sure it's rich enough, and then start messing with the low end needle at and below mid-range. If it loads up and stumbles when re-opening the throttle, then you need to close the low end a little more until that stops happening. If instead it tends to stay up in RPM a bit and sound whiny/tinny (andif it tends to get hot)as you close the throttle, then the low end is set too thin. If it quits, but not from loading up with fuel, try opening it up a bit. If should not be dripping a bunch of fuel, or obviously, it's too far open. Be patient, you have to develop an ear for the right sound.
Or, as 80% of everyone else will tell you, you could just go electric...
#12

My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Mt. Pleasant,
OH
I had real good luck with mine. Plenty of power for Intermediate and pretty much bulletproof once you get it set right.
Mine actually came from Frank, of post #9 above.
As Ed pointed out, the carb needs to be re set to work with the pump. The technique I used was to get the high end right, then close the throttle until it started to get rich. Stop the engine, look into the carb and adjust the low speed needle to where it's just entering the jet at this point. That will get you close.
Scott
Mine actually came from Frank, of post #9 above.
As Ed pointed out, the carb needs to be re set to work with the pump. The technique I used was to get the high end right, then close the throttle until it started to get rich. Stop the engine, look into the carb and adjust the low speed needle to where it's just entering the jet at this point. That will get you close.
Scott
#13
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: Strat2003
I had real good luck with mine. Plenty of power for Intermediate and pretty much bulletproof once you get it set right.
Mine actually came from Frank, of post #9 above.
As Ed pointed out, the carb needs to be re set to work with the pump. The technique I used was to get the high end right, then close the throttle until it started to get rich. Stop the engine, look into the carb and adjust the low speed needle to where it's just entering the jet at this point. That will get you close.
Scott
I had real good luck with mine. Plenty of power for Intermediate and pretty much bulletproof once you get it set right.
Mine actually came from Frank, of post #9 above.
As Ed pointed out, the carb needs to be re set to work with the pump. The technique I used was to get the high end right, then close the throttle until it started to get rich. Stop the engine, look into the carb and adjust the low speed needle to where it's just entering the jet at this point. That will get you close.
Scott
It didn't turn the same props as well as my Webra 160 and 145's did but it worked okay in the light planes I had it in
#14
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: New Milford,
CT
I'm still running OS160's on all of my glow Pattern planes (yes I'm migrating to electric now). Once you get the pipe + header to work correctly (I had problems breaking headers until I figured out how to mount the pipe) it's a good setup and very reliable. I use a slightly different method to set up the pump and carb. It works for me so you may want to give it a try if you have no one to help you:
1. Break the engine in correctly according to the instructions. It's a ringed engine so this is pretty easy.
2. Install the desired prop and get the pipe close to where it should be based on someone else's experience or recommendation (plenty of this exists already).
3. Don't touch the pump setting yet - just run the engine, tune the needle for max. RPM at wide-open-throttle (W.O.T) and record it.
4. Keep shortening the pipe length until RPM no longer increases.
5. Add 1/2" ~ 3/4" to the pipe length that you found to be optimum.
6. Run the engine, tune for Max RPM at W.O.T. and open the needle about 2 - 3 clicks - use the pinch test to fine tune the needle.
7. Stop the engine and see how far the needle is open. It should be about 1.25 ~ 1.5 turns.
8. Adjust the pump pressure until the engine runs happily at 1.25 ` 1.5 turns open at WOT.
9. Don't touch the pump setting anymore.
10. Adjust idle to about 1700 ~ 1800. Play with the tlrottle and low-speed needle until this happens.
11. Check transition from low - high. Adjust low-speed needle accordingly.
12. Idle mixture should be just slightly rich. You'll know it's right when it transitions smoothly form low to high AND it comes back down to idle quickly. If it takes a long time to "slow down" - it's still too lean.
You need to set things a little rich on the ground because in the air the prop will unload - even at idle. In order to get good downhill braking the idle mixture cannot be too lean.
As far as pipe setups go - Cut the header as short as possible: leave about 1" of straight tube on on it. Use a short piece of aluminum pipe coupled between the header and pipe with short pieces of pipe coupler to adjust the pipe length. Fasten the pipe at the front so that it can't move side to side very much. The whole idea is to let the engine move while not imposing any stress on the header. The short piece of pipe between the header and the pipe allows movement and pipe length adjustment.
As I said this all worked for me. YMMV. Oh yeah - use an "F'" plug and 15% nitro. This will haul an 11 lb. airplane all day long unless you're flying Masters or FAI. By then you shouldn't be flying an 11 lb. airplane anymore! LOL
John Pavlick
1. Break the engine in correctly according to the instructions. It's a ringed engine so this is pretty easy.
2. Install the desired prop and get the pipe close to where it should be based on someone else's experience or recommendation (plenty of this exists already).
3. Don't touch the pump setting yet - just run the engine, tune the needle for max. RPM at wide-open-throttle (W.O.T) and record it.
4. Keep shortening the pipe length until RPM no longer increases.
5. Add 1/2" ~ 3/4" to the pipe length that you found to be optimum.
6. Run the engine, tune for Max RPM at W.O.T. and open the needle about 2 - 3 clicks - use the pinch test to fine tune the needle.
7. Stop the engine and see how far the needle is open. It should be about 1.25 ~ 1.5 turns.
8. Adjust the pump pressure until the engine runs happily at 1.25 ` 1.5 turns open at WOT.
9. Don't touch the pump setting anymore.
10. Adjust idle to about 1700 ~ 1800. Play with the tlrottle and low-speed needle until this happens.
11. Check transition from low - high. Adjust low-speed needle accordingly.
12. Idle mixture should be just slightly rich. You'll know it's right when it transitions smoothly form low to high AND it comes back down to idle quickly. If it takes a long time to "slow down" - it's still too lean.
You need to set things a little rich on the ground because in the air the prop will unload - even at idle. In order to get good downhill braking the idle mixture cannot be too lean.
As far as pipe setups go - Cut the header as short as possible: leave about 1" of straight tube on on it. Use a short piece of aluminum pipe coupled between the header and pipe with short pieces of pipe coupler to adjust the pipe length. Fasten the pipe at the front so that it can't move side to side very much. The whole idea is to let the engine move while not imposing any stress on the header. The short piece of pipe between the header and the pipe allows movement and pipe length adjustment.
As I said this all worked for me. YMMV. Oh yeah - use an "F'" plug and 15% nitro. This will haul an 11 lb. airplane all day long unless you're flying Masters or FAI. By then you shouldn't be flying an 11 lb. airplane anymore! LOL
John Pavlick
#16
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: New Milford,
CT
ORIGINAL: jetmech43
and change the stock bearings as they are junk
and change the stock bearings as they are junk
John Pavlick
#17
I am planning to fly a P13 or F13 sequence on this 1.60 setup...
any idea on how will it perform & what will be the best prop for this flying.
any idea on how will it perform & what will be the best prop for this flying.
#20
ORIGINAL: flyintexan
Art Wagner in the North Dallas area has been flying FAI competitively for years with an OS160/bladder tank setup. You can ask anyone who has seen him fly, he does not lack for power with this setup. BTW, he has OS headers available for sale.
-mark
Art Wagner in the North Dallas area has been flying FAI competitively for years with an OS160/bladder tank setup. You can ask anyone who has seen him fly, he does not lack for power with this setup. BTW, he has OS headers available for sale.
-mark
Thats superb...



]
