OhD

It should not be a problem, however I set my system in the Gaudius to 8.2 volts which kept the 2s LiPo at 8.2. I figured the LiPo packs don't like being stored fully charged so I backed off a little and I wasn't sure how accurate the 8.4 volts was. You don't want to overcharge. You don't really need a fully charge backup pack as you only need to get a few mAh out of it. The only problem with this setup is a short in either cable (2s LiPo or Mezon BEC) kills both sources and your airplane. My Axiome doesn't have HV servos so I run the Mezon at 6.0 and regulate the 2s to 5.7 volts. I need to charge it once in awhile but not very often. Not sure what I'll do when I get the Gaudius back together.

Jim O

PS: You need a Jeti DC-16 to go with that Mezon. Great TM data and a lot of other stuff.

Brenner

Hey Apereira,

Thanks for the reply.

What I would like to do is run the BEC from my Mezon ESC directly into my Futaba S.bus receiver, and then run the second BEC lead into the back of a Digi switch with a small 2s lipo in parallel. The idea is to use the lipo as a redundant backup that's kept fully charged by the BEC set at 8.4V.

However, I realize that the BEC is going to maintain the voltage at 8.4V, regardless of the current draw from the servos, so I need to know if these new SV servos are safe running at a constant 8.4V.

If they are not safe, then I can adjust the BEC voltage back to 7.4V, but this won't keep the Lipo fully charged.

Brenner ...

Dsnow

Hi Brenner, the Mezon specs the BEC out at 8.0 volts max. I'm essentially running the system you stated but with the BEC at the 8.0 volts and cheap HV servos, the BEC keeps the 2s pack charged to 8 volts, or about 75% charged. The setup worked great this season.

Dave Snow

OhD

Hi Dave, see my only concern above. A short circuit on the receiver bus or any cable connected to it will kill the system. I can't picture what Brenner is talking about "plugging into the back of a Digi switch", but it sounds as if he might be isolating the 2s LiPo from the BEC. That might be better but I need to know more about the Digi switch. I thought they were switches with voltage regulators built in.

Jim O

apereira

Jim,

A short in any ser o power wires will kill the system regardles, I have seen it with sohrting servos 8711, it was due to impropper installation, but seen it twice.

Hi Brenner,

I do understand your setup, you will take advantave of the BEC and that will maintain the 8.4V, but I have not been able to confirm the voltage, but let's suppose someone uses a 3000mAh Rx batt, that on an F3A model will probably hold the 8.4 or 8.2 at least for about 4 flights, so we could assume, that they should be able to support it no problem, is the Rx overheating if wrapped in foam for example, I mean certain colling precautions should be maximized. Anyway, the Japanese page say they are designed for 2S LiPo, so you should be ok no matter what.


regards

RByrd

My Feedback: (3)

The HV's are fine on Lipos. I run 9 of them in my Carden Pro unregulated for the last two season. I plan on running HV's on my new pattern planes for next season also unregulated on Lipos. The only thing I am going to do is run heavier gauge wire.

serious power

Hi Alejandro,
I got these some time ago for a foamey ;
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSWC4&P=ML
I have had a good look at one today and I have to say I'm tempted to use 4 of them for ailerons on my new model. They would be ok on elevators as well.
I am talking electric- contra - soft mounted. ie; 4 X 2.4 = 9.6Kg torque - plenty and especially with light wings.
The weight saving is very very significant ; 6 x 10g V 6 x 26g --- 96g saving.
The money saving is not to be sneezed at either ; 6 x $40 V 6 x $140 --- $600 saving.
ie ; if used on elevator as well.

Have also considered using 2 of them per aileron - ie 19.2Kg torque and only 20g per panel.
I think that I will come back to this for my new model - Version 2.

Anyway for now I have decided to go with one of these two ;
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SH0254.../savsh0254.htm
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SH0255...avsh0255mg.htm
I will get one of each to help decide which is best. A gear set will convert the rejected one.
Still a 40g and $400 saving on aileron alone with almost 16Kg torque - can't be bad.

Edit; I mean to add for reference purposes that a pair of S9154's had 9.2Kg torque and we were very happy with those on a 5.4Kg YS powered model.

Brian

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

I had 4 savox in my Miss Wind ailerons for a little bit and I took them out they some play when they were new which I could live with, but they all develop quite a bite more in a very short period of time...talk to Savox they didn't seem to care much and no nylon gear are available to replace the metal sloppy one.....they we're replace with 4 Futaba, couldn't be happier. (No JR that size)

apereira

Brian,

I agree they are big savings, but the power on a servo like the 153 and on (as the 173 it's pretty much the same servo with different electronics) is not to just move the aileron to the extreme, is for moving an aileron about 5mm with presicion and when it returns to center to do it with enogh power it can get to the exact same position, to me move a
surface with great presicion means you need power.

If a version of the servo would exist with 65oz it will be the choice, but this is what they produce, besides the fact the gear train has to be appropiate to take those loads, specially on the YS185.

cheers

serious power

Hi Daniel,
I was afraid that someone might have bad news on these - thank you all the same.
What model savox did you have ??
Somebody showed good test results for savox on here some-place last year ??

Edit; And what Futaba did you replace them with.

Brian

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

I had the SH-0256 x4 in the wing...they we're replace with the S-3156 which are still very good after 50 flights or so....and 2x SH-1350 has dual elevators.....which I'm changing this winter they have also develop excessive play after just 50'ish flights the only Savox I like Is the SC-1258 on the rudder...this is in my Miss Wind S

The elevators were setup with a single SC-1258 at first but I wanted more setup options....so I change them when I change the wing servos.

I'm returning to flying after 11years or so...and got hookup on F3A all over...I used to Fly pattern pretty much exclusively.....when I say excessive play that might be fine for some it's subjective opinion

serious power

Daniel,
Thanks.
Slop at centre is the last thing we need.
I assume the Miss Wind S is 'E' power.

Brian

Edit; The gears in those 0256 are a mix of plastic and metal according to their web site ??

TimBle

plastic primary followed by metal for the rest is pretty standard

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Serious Pwr Yap upon my return to RC I swear no more nitro or gas stuff.....so far it's working very well

TimB- Yes I guess the time that you could buy the same servo with plastic or metal gear seem to be gone, but I don't find play in the JR and Futaba...at least not that much...and there is no way I'm going to change the gears after every 50 flights on an electric plane.....that would have mean like 5 set of gears per servo's this past summer, and I didn't fly that much

These new Futaba look sweet like the new JR

TimBle

Are you saying you see play in the Savox servo's? I don't experience much of that. Which Savox are you using?
I fly gas engines btw and don't have problem with gear wear on Futaba, JR or Savox. Metal gear servo's need a bit of play to allow the grease to move about and lubricate the gears. If there is no slop in a metal gear servo, then it WILL wear quickly since as the gear teeth heat they will bind more and squeeze the grease out. A small amount of slop is not noticeable if the actuator linkage is set up correctly for pattern

kochj

Ys185???

kochj

Futaba changed from SBUS to SBUS2.
I picked up these BLS174HV S-BUS(1) on sale.... knowing that they would be replaced with same servo but SBUS-2...

The question I have is, the SBUS-2 servos also have METAL GEARS.
couldn't I place the metal gears in my SBUS-1 servos???
I didn't see it for sale at Tower....

serious power

Hi,
On doing some research this evening there seems to be a possible issue with deadband width and savox.
Their better ones have a deadband of 3 μsec and the smaller ones 5 μsec.
It is claimed that JR and Futaba have narrower deadband widths - but finding specifications is proofing futile.

Brian

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Well the bottom line is Savox are off my models forever it doesn't matter that others have good success with them because I didn't....back to the tread please

apereira

Dead band on Futaba S.Bus2 is in degrees, 0.03 deg to 3.98deg, 0.03 is exagerated as it will probably just increase current draw and maybe shorten the servo life, the standard setting is 0.16deg, at that setting you can hear the servo motor working without really moving the stick, just with a very very slim movement.

Kochj,

Yes, YS185

TimBle

Sorry I didn't want to spark off a fight. I just asked which servo's you were using because the servo number you lists belongs to a mini servo which is not really suited to power planes let alone ailerons on such aircraft. They're better suited to gliders and smaller electrics due to having only bearing on the output shaft. Even the S3156 are not suited to a aircraft the size of a Ms Wind and are rated at only 2kg.cm. Just really confused as to why you woudl go this route for a pattern plane when there are better suited wing servo's available.

kochj

Didn't know that Yamada, was increasing the cc's on there current line....of 175's.

Anyone know if you can get replacement gears for the BLS174HV ( sbus1 VERSION )?
Would like to have metal gears for durability...

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Theres no fight it's very well suited for the Miss Wind S for the ailerons (4 of them) just look it up at sebart.it nothing else would fit the very thin wing and very small hole made by SebArt.........I have the JR MP91T WIDE-VOLTAGE BRUSHLESS TORQUE SERVO for the ailerons on my next 2m plane......

I still think that you got what you pay for and Savox was a mistake that I won't be making in the future.

apereira

They should be compatible, the only that changed was the electronics, again, I think.
you should stay with the nylon gears, they are actually more durable unless you hit the aileron accidentally with something.

The YS185 was flown in the WC, I got mine before the worlds but had to cancel my trip due to business. it should be out soon.

Alex Voicu

I also tried a Savox SA-1258TG on rudder at the beginning of this season. The SA series were supposed to have tighter gears for more precision compared to the SH series, but i still measured around 4mm of slop at the trailing edge of the rudder or almost 1 deg of slop measured with the incidence meter.
The plane never flew right with that servo on the rudder, very hard to keep the vertical uplines straight and needed 3% of throttle to rudder mix.
I changed it with a Futaba BLS451 and all the problems disappeared, mix reduced to 1% and the gear slop is almost non-existent.