FANTASISTA EVO Build Thread by ISAAC NAJARY
09-18-2015, 05:41 PM
#129
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Step 1:
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[TD]Sealing the balsa:
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[TD]Sending sealer - 2 parts, Thinner 21 - 1 part, Talc - 1 part (brush), sending with dry 220 sandpaper.
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[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[TABLE="width: 376"]
[TR]
[TD]Sealing the balsa:
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Sending sealer - 2 parts, Thinner 21 - 1 part, Talc - 1 part (brush), sending with dry 220 sandpaper.
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Last edited by najary; 09-18-2015 at 05:53 PM.
09-18-2015, 07:48 PM
#131
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Is the Sanding Sealer, a Polyurethane product? and is Thinner 21 a General Purpose thinner?. I was about to order some Japanese tissue and dope for my Fantasista.
09-18-2015, 10:43 PM
#132
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Hi Isaac,
Have you ever used a product called EZE KOTE laminating resin .....you mix it with Talc or microballoons and does the same job as sanding sealer.
You can use it for covering as well.
The good thing about it it is water based
regards
Mavros
Have you ever used a product called EZE KOTE laminating resin .....you mix it with Talc or microballoons and does the same job as sanding sealer.
You can use it for covering as well.
The good thing about it it is water based
regards
Mavros
09-18-2015, 11:26 PM
#135
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10-04-2015, 06:54 AM
#136
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Step 3:
Filing the silk hollows.
Apply: Sending sealer - 3 parts, Thinner 21 - 1 part, Talc - 1 part, Tambour Tinting solution M.G.A. 2000 – 5% of the Sending sealer (Using a Spatula).
The Tambour Tinting solution M.G.A. 2000 (the green stuff) is very important:
Best regards,
Isaac Najary
Filing the silk hollows.
Apply: Sending sealer - 3 parts, Thinner 21 - 1 part, Talc - 1 part, Tambour Tinting solution M.G.A. 2000 – 5% of the Sending sealer (Using a Spatula).
The Tambour Tinting solution M.G.A. 2000 (the green stuff) is very important:
- It makes the clear sending sealer visible so you know where and how much material you apply.
- It decreases the sending sealer tend to release the wood or silk fiber.
- It makes the clear sending sealer visible so you know where and how much you can sand it.
- It make the balsa surface more opaque, so can use lese paint in order to get opaque surface.
Best regards,
Isaac Najary
Last edited by najary; 10-04-2015 at 07:32 AM.
10-04-2015, 10:09 PM
#141
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It is 20 gram/m2 silk
http://www.flighthobby.jp/cgi-local/..._id=26&disp=on
Best regards,
Isaac Najary
10-05-2015, 01:09 AM
#147
Hi Isaac,
Great info,, .
Can you tell us the weight for the silk itself - g/m\2 please.
It seems to be giving a very 'thin' finish as the weight gain is very little.
How does it compare to glass and epoxy for tensile strength (stiffening the part) and for ding resistance (hardening the surface).
Brian
Great info,, .
Can you tell us the weight for the silk itself - g/m\2 please.
It seems to be giving a very 'thin' finish as the weight gain is very little.
How does it compare to glass and epoxy for tensile strength (stiffening the part) and for ding resistance (hardening the surface).
Brian
10-05-2015, 09:23 AM
#148
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Hi Isaac,
Great info,, .
Can you tell us the weight for the silk itself - g/m\2 please.
It seems to be giving a very 'thin' finish as the weight gain is very little.
How does it compare to glass and epoxy for tensile strength (stiffening the part) and for ding resistance (hardening the surface).
Brian
Great info,, .
Can you tell us the weight for the silk itself - g/m\2 please.
It seems to be giving a very 'thin' finish as the weight gain is very little.
How does it compare to glass and epoxy for tensile strength (stiffening the part) and for ding resistance (hardening the surface).
Brian
Hi Brian,
The silk weights about 20 gram/m/2.
You can find it here:
http://www.flighthobby.jp/cgi-local/..._id=26&disp=on
I have experience with glass and epoxy and with thin rice paper glued with sanding sealer.
I find that this method – silk glued with sanding sealer is the best.
The silk is much more dense then the fiberglass although they weight almost the same, so you need lese epoxy or sanding sealer to fill it.
I found that gluing the fabric with sanding sealer and not with epoxy is much much better!!!
You don`t have to wary if you sand truth the silk (this is not the case with the other methods).
All you have to do is just apply some sanding sealer and sand a little bit the aria; this is because you do not use two different materials (sanding sealer and epoxy) and because the silk is organic material like the balsa wood.
About the silk compare to glass and epoxy for tensile strength (stiffening the part) and for ding resistance (hardening the surface); it looks to me the same.
Best regards,
Isaac Najary
11-02-2015, 11:29 PM
#150
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Drawing the paint scheme with AutoCAD software and laser cut the scheme templates.
Many thanks to my friend, architect Haim Edrei.
http://www.haimedrei.co.il/
Many thanks to my friend, architect Haim Edrei.
http://www.haimedrei.co.il/