I will do a document search to find out what this tool is and how it works.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
Paul

Hello

Nice colors (pics from Bondaero)
claude

Hi, I am just returning to pattern after a 15yr layoff. I have a Bj Element almost ready to fly, only snag is I can't find a balance point listed anywhere. Does anyone have any suggestions where a good starting point would be? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

"..we are running with the wing set at +.7* and tcan at 0* in reference to the stabs at 0*"

"T-Can should match the wing .7 positive"

Sounds like you need to put a servo on the canalizer and trim that sucker in flight.

Hey, guys here's an update.
I have a new shipment that just arrived.
It has two new AJ New schemed Elements on it. As well as more of Scheme #1.
Here are the listings.

https://www.f3aunlimited.com/bj-craf...ginal-scheme-1

https://www.f3aunlimited.com/bj-craf...jesky-scheme-2

and this for a Contra setup:
https://www.f3aunlimited.com/bj-craf...r-contra-setup
Thanks for your continued support. Mike Mueller
F3A Unlimited

What are you guys using for a manual, using the one from the invitation and/or essence?

tony

Link: BJ Craft USA - F3A Competition Pattern Planes under the "Resources" menu

Has anyone tried this?

https://www.precisionaeroproducts.co...t-element-long

tony

Vent template

Hey guys, my Element down thrust with the stab at an accurate 0° is -4.5° down. This is like 3.5°more than I normally use. The stab is non adjustable. My bolted on t-cant is.55°+ to the stab and my wing is set @ .7°+ to the stab which means my t-cant is .15° negative to the wing. The real big issue here is the huge amount of down thrust @ 4.5° negative? From what I have read most people are using around a -1° to -1.5° down thrust.Wing is adjustable as well as t-cant and painted nose ring (3 colors) could be re done with a lot of work so that could be re- done! Grr Any thoughts on this will be welcome and aporeciated .

Rear T-can stiffener. 1/4" carbon-end grain balsa sandwich. 68mm ahead of previous bulkhead.


Front T-can stiffener. 1/4" carbon-end grain balsa sandwich.

That's not the canopy. It's the turtledeck behind the canopy underneath the T-Canalyzer. There have been reports of canalyzer flutter.

No wheel collars. No lost wheels.

Which axles are those?

how do you mount the wheel pants?

want to sell a pair of those stiffeners?

tony

tony

Those are Dubro axles. The wheels are put on and the axles are measured and cut. The end of the axle is heated to orange, cooled, and a small flat is ground on one side. Then a hole is drilled (maybe #60) at the ground point thru the axle to accept a short piece of .032 aviation safety wire. A washer or washers are used for spacing. You will not lose a wheel in a contest using this technique!
I fly on turf, so there will be no pants and the associated hassle.
Wheels are Dubro Lite 2-3/4".
I cannot guarantee the function of the stiffeners as the plane has not flown yet, so you're on your own. They were designed with scraps of information I gathered word-of-mouth. Kyuho Lee checked the photos and felt it functionally matched the structure he added on his Agenda, but I deviated from what he actually did by adding the front stiffener instead of carbon tow around the front screws.
What? No comments about the tailwheel?
-Ron

3D printed canalyzer shims to simultaneously adjust incidence and tilt. These are the four rejects. The fifth one was correct and is installed under the canalyzer leading edge. The advantage of 3D printing is precise control of thicknesses (better than 0.5mm tolerance was needed in this case) and reproduceability. It could be done with sandpaper and wood, too, but this was a whole lot more fun.

Process looks good. What did you set yhe incidence at as relates to wing?

I set it the same as the wing, pattratt. It seems to be the consensus here.

Ok, thanks

Rigging Pull-Pull rudder.
Slot is located by measuring for the point in the fuselage where the width=cable spacing, 2.5 inches in this case. The 2.5" comes from the servo arm and rudder arm hole spacing, which are equal. Servo arm and rudder arms were mounted vertically to lie on the top of the black paint line as shown. Cables were first rigged to the servo arm and then the servo installed. To retrieve the cables from the fuselage, I pushed a small nylon rod into the exit slot and fed the cable into it from the front. Pull the nylon rod out and the cable is magically in place.