YS user seeking sympathetic ears :(
10-04-2017, 11:51 AM
#201
Hi,
I have been using a futaba mini switch to connect my cdi unit to the Rx for 5 years. Since i moved to the iridum plug this no longer works. I replaced the mini-switch and it worked for a few flights and also started causing engine problems. This has made me wonder if the Iridium plug/cdi unit requires a higher voltage than the original plug ? Either way a direct Futaba HD lead fixed the problem.
Shane
I have been using a futaba mini switch to connect my cdi unit to the Rx for 5 years. Since i moved to the iridum plug this no longer works. I replaced the mini-switch and it worked for a few flights and also started causing engine problems. This has made me wonder if the Iridium plug/cdi unit requires a higher voltage than the original plug ? Either way a direct Futaba HD lead fixed the problem.
Shane
10-05-2017, 09:50 PM
#205
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NEWCASTLE, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Scott,
I just checked my filler gauge and 12 thou is .30 mm which is what I set mine at.
The normal plugs are ok with it but Iridium no good.
What I did notice is that the iridium rod is much softer material and tends to bend when setting the gap so this could explain the misfiring.
I will investigate further and report back .
I think the other blokes are using bigger gaps for the iridium.
regards
I just checked my filler gauge and 12 thou is .30 mm which is what I set mine at.
The normal plugs are ok with it but Iridium no good.
What I did notice is that the iridium rod is much softer material and tends to bend when setting the gap so this could explain the misfiring.
I will investigate further and report back .
I think the other blokes are using bigger gaps for the iridium.
regards
10-30-2017, 01:41 PM
#214
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
Well, four days out from a comp the YS decided to reward me for all the time, money, fuel and grey matter I'd thrown at it by chewing up it's rear bearing.
I can't complain too much, that rear bearing had taking a bit of a beating while sorting out the engine this year and it was going to get changed out at Christmas. So after shutting down halfway up an upline at the upwind end of the 'box' I managed a perfect deadstick landing at my feet (I've had practice) and when I tried to turn the prop it didn't feel good. I'd felt that once before back in 2010 so had a fair idea what would be waiting for me when I'd stripped it.
What I wasn't expecting was the poor condition of the front and rear bearing housings in the crankcase.
Sure a crankcase is only ~$100 AUD and a set of bearings and seals, few gaskets and a damper collar set about another ~$50 AUD but that would mean I've just about officially worn out the original engine after 8 years with only the original crankshaft and throttle body remaining.
I'll cobble it back together with my "good" old bearings for this weekend but longer term I need to make a decision.
I'll be keeping the Aries 07 airframe (5.2kg) so:
Should I stick a 185cdi zero in there swinging the 19x11 at about the same rpm and save on the nitro?
Should I stick in a 185cdi and up the prop a bit?
Should I just go the 200cdi and up the prop a lot? (will the 200 bolt up to the 170 exhaust system?)
I can't complain too much, that rear bearing had taking a bit of a beating while sorting out the engine this year and it was going to get changed out at Christmas. So after shutting down halfway up an upline at the upwind end of the 'box' I managed a perfect deadstick landing at my feet (I've had practice) and when I tried to turn the prop it didn't feel good. I'd felt that once before back in 2010 so had a fair idea what would be waiting for me when I'd stripped it.
What I wasn't expecting was the poor condition of the front and rear bearing housings in the crankcase.
Sure a crankcase is only ~$100 AUD and a set of bearings and seals, few gaskets and a damper collar set about another ~$50 AUD but that would mean I've just about officially worn out the original engine after 8 years with only the original crankshaft and throttle body remaining.
I'll cobble it back together with my "good" old bearings for this weekend but longer term I need to make a decision.
I'll be keeping the Aries 07 airframe (5.2kg) so:
Should I stick a 185cdi zero in there swinging the 19x11 at about the same rpm and save on the nitro?
Should I stick in a 185cdi and up the prop a bit?
Should I just go the 200cdi and up the prop a lot? (will the 200 bolt up to the 170 exhaust system?)
10-30-2017, 02:18 PM
#215
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: oakland,
CA
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, four days out from a comp the YS decided to reward me for all the time, money, fuel and grey matter I'd thrown at it by chewing up it's rear bearing.
I can't complain too much, that rear bearing had taking a bit of a beating while sorting out the engine this year and it was going to get changed out at Christmas. So after shutting down halfway up an upline at the upwind end of the 'box' I managed a perfect deadstick landing at my feet (I've had practice) and when I tried to turn the prop it didn't feel good. I'd felt that once before back in 2010 so had a fair idea what would be waiting for me when I'd stripped it.
What I wasn't expecting was the poor condition of the front and rear bearing housings in the crankcase.
Sure a crankcase is only ~$100 AUD and a set of bearings and seals, few gaskets and a damper collar set about another ~$50 AUD but that would mean I've just about officially worn out the original engine after 8 years with only the original crankshaft and throttle body remaining.
I'll cobble it back together with my "good" old bearings for this weekend but longer term I need to make a decision.
I'll be keeping the Aries 07 airframe (5.2kg) so:
Should I stick a 185cdi zero in there swinging the 19x11 at about the same rpm and save on the nitro?
Should I stick in a 185cdi and up the prop a bit?
Should I just go the 200cdi and up the prop a lot? (will the 200 bolt up to the 170 exhaust system?)
I can't complain too much, that rear bearing had taking a bit of a beating while sorting out the engine this year and it was going to get changed out at Christmas. So after shutting down halfway up an upline at the upwind end of the 'box' I managed a perfect deadstick landing at my feet (I've had practice) and when I tried to turn the prop it didn't feel good. I'd felt that once before back in 2010 so had a fair idea what would be waiting for me when I'd stripped it.
What I wasn't expecting was the poor condition of the front and rear bearing housings in the crankcase.
Sure a crankcase is only ~$100 AUD and a set of bearings and seals, few gaskets and a damper collar set about another ~$50 AUD but that would mean I've just about officially worn out the original engine after 8 years with only the original crankshaft and throttle body remaining.
I'll cobble it back together with my "good" old bearings for this weekend but longer term I need to make a decision.
I'll be keeping the Aries 07 airframe (5.2kg) so:
Should I stick a 185cdi zero in there swinging the 19x11 at about the same rpm and save on the nitro?
Should I stick in a 185cdi and up the prop a bit?
Should I just go the 200cdi and up the prop a lot? (will the 200 bolt up to the 170 exhaust system?)
10-30-2017, 02:46 PM
#216
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
Now you're just trying to make me look bad. Here's one from 2015, when pulling the engine apart was still a once per year special occasion for "preventative" maintenance.
Edit: on closer inspection the crankshaft isn't looking too flash either. The bearing inner race is happy to spin on the crank so it's quite probable that this engine will only get new bearings and a couple of drops of retaining compound in key areas then run until it grinds to a halt.
Edit: on closer inspection the crankshaft isn't looking too flash either. The bearing inner race is happy to spin on the crank so it's quite probable that this engine will only get new bearings and a couple of drops of retaining compound in key areas then run until it grinds to a halt.
Last edited by bjr_93tz; 10-30-2017 at 02:57 PM.
10-31-2017, 02:06 AM
#218
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
Quick Update: YS cobbled back together with a few bits of shim and CA where appropriate and two flights this afternoon without issue. Usually I'm not this rough but I just need a dozen or so flights and I can sort this out properly later.
Touch wood, it seems to be running as good (if not better?) than ever. I'm guessing some tolerances have been a bit on the loose side for a while.
Touch wood, it seems to be running as good (if not better?) than ever. I'm guessing some tolerances have been a bit on the loose side for a while.
11-06-2017, 03:10 PM
#220
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
Weekend comp came and went, and I must have have been touching enough wood in the lead-up to and during the comp.
Not only did the engine perform flawlessly while practicing in the few days leading up to the comp, but did the job I asked of it in each round, helping me take the overall win in my class. New parts have been ordered and those old bearings will go in a glass case...
Not only did the engine perform flawlessly while practicing in the few days leading up to the comp, but did the job I asked of it in each round, helping me take the overall win in my class. New parts have been ordered and those old bearings will go in a glass case...
05-09-2018, 07:07 PM
#222
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
It turns out (being the sucker for mechanical punishment I am) my car engine also has a bearing buried into a blind hole in the end of the crankshaft. An appropriately machined mandrel, some Plasticine and a hammer and out she popped!!!!
05-09-2018, 09:42 PM
#224
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: ToowoombaQLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,026
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
15 Posts
Keep an eye out in your letter box for a set of worn out original (km's unknown?) cam bearings as first prize
