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Old 08-14-2018, 05:23 PM
  #151  
drac1
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Originally Posted by bjr_93tz
My little contribution to global warming/mosquito eradication has arrived




The Rubik's Cube is so I've something simple to solve if the new YS starts giving me problems....
Good to see Brett, we all have to do our bit lol.

You'll love the 200. Just be mindful that these are much more sensitive to altitude and atmospheric condition changes.
Old 08-14-2018, 06:55 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by drac1
Good to see Brett, we all have to do our bit lol.
You'll love the 200. Just be mindful that these are much more sensitive to altitude and atmospheric condition changes.
Thanks Scott, as a side project I'm thinking about putting a absolute pressure sensor, temperature sensor and humidity sensor in a box and having a microcontroller look at the three of them and spit out a relative air density value.

One of the other guys that used to race TZ250's had a Kinsler RAD gauge and it was handy when making jetting changes throughout the day, so it'll be interesting to make up something similiar and see how things change. Even with the YZ250, the two places I ride are about 300m different in height and it's noticeable. I'm playing with the pressure sensor (red arrow) and will (very) slowly get around to adding the rest. Only 948hPa in my office at the moment...

3.812V = 947.6hPa
Old 08-14-2018, 11:02 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by bjr_93tz
Thanks Scott, as a side project I'm thinking about putting a absolute pressure sensor, temperature sensor and humidity sensor in a box and having a microcontroller look at the three of them and spit out a relative air density value.

One of the other guys that used to race TZ250's had a Kinsler RAD gauge and it was handy when making jetting changes throughout the day, so it'll be interesting to make up something similiar and see how things change. Even with the YZ250, the two places I ride are about 300m different in height and it's noticeable. I'm playing with the pressure sensor (red arrow) and will (very) slowly get around to adding the rest. Only 948hPa in my office at the moment...

3.812V = 947.6hPa
Very interesting Brett. Look forward to hearing how you go with it.

The 2 main fields I fly at are 150m height difference. That's noticeable.
Old 08-23-2018, 06:13 PM
  #154  
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Hey Scot,

Cant wait to see your new bird with the YS 200 ..............

Old 08-23-2018, 11:26 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by MAVROS
Hey Scot,

Cant wait to see your new bird with the YS 200 ..............
Hi Con,

I'm hoping to have it ready for the APA Champs in October. We'll see
Old 08-25-2018, 09:08 PM
  #156  
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I just thought I would mention I received an e-mail regarding my new DZ200cdi.

It seems mine was assembled with a pair of bolts in the throttle body that were 32mm long instead of 35mm long. I'd guess that any affected customers would have already been notified like I was, but if you've bought one very recently it might be something to check next time those two bolts are out.

The overall length of my bolts are 35mm (including head) but the shank/thread is only 32mm resulting in only a few threads being engaged. Easy mistake for somebody at the bolt factory to make I suppose??
Old 08-28-2018, 06:10 AM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by Mike_StampeSV4
Dear apereira,

you can get rapicon fuel CDI30GF at cosmo-rc.de. Ask for Christian, he imports rapicon directly from Korea, YS, Narutec, Nishioka etc directly from Japan.

Michael
Excellent information Michael, thank you!
Old 09-10-2018, 04:39 AM
  #158  
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Hello Scott
In the picture, the seal againts cylinder head seems to be made of copper.
The seal delivered with the YS exhaust pipe that I bought is made of mild steel.
Have you replaced the original gasket with a copper ?
Claude

Old 09-10-2018, 04:45 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by papaone
Hello Scott
In the picture, the seal againts cylinder head seems to be made of copper.
The seal delivered with the YS exhaust pipe that I bought is made of mild steel.
Have you replaced the original gasket with a copper ?
Claude

Hi Claude,

The sesls are now aluminium.
Old 09-10-2018, 07:03 AM
  #160  
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HI,

Does anyone know the material of construction for the little O-Ring that fits in the Hatori pipe ?
I tried Viton. It has a matt finish and doesnt seem to work as well as the original hatori O-Rings.

Thanks

Shane
Old 09-10-2018, 09:46 AM
  #161  
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Hello Shane
Originally Posted by propnuter
HI,
Does anyone know the material of construction for the little O-Ring that fits in the Hatori pipe ?
I tried Viton. It has a matt finish and doesnt seem to work as well as the original hatori O-Rings.
Thanks
Shane
I use YS O ring as shown on picture.
I put the seal with graphite grease that is temperature resistant.
It is important that the pipe slides to avoid tearing the seal
Claude

Old 09-10-2018, 01:53 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by propnuter
HI,

Does anyone know the material of construction for the little O-Ring that fits in the Hatori pipe ?
I tried Viton. It has a matt finish and doesnt seem to work as well as the original hatori O-Rings.

Thanks

Shane
I'm pretty sure they are Viton. I've tried other brand O rings, but Hatori or YS ones last much longer.
Old 09-20-2018, 12:23 AM
  #163  
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Hello
What kind of spinner are you recommending for an engine 200 CDI
I tried the Great Planes Spinner 3" Nylon Aluminum
and Sometimes, I see a shift between the spinner and the prop
Thanks
Kobi
Old 09-20-2018, 04:23 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by kobi
Hello
What kind of spinner are you recommending for an engine 200 CDI
I tried the Great Planes Spinner 3" Nylon Aluminum
and Sometimes, I see a shift between the spinner and the prop
Thanks
Kobi
Hey Kobi,

Any spinner with a aluminium back plate should be OK. I've used TY1, Tru Turn and now Marquette with out any problems.

If it is moving, just means it's not tight enough. The prop nuts need to be very tight.
Old 09-20-2018, 12:37 PM
  #165  
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Thanks Scott
Old 09-20-2018, 03:55 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by kobi
Hello
What kind of spinner are you recommending for an engine 200 CDI
I tried the Great Planes Spinner 3" Nylon Aluminum
and Sometimes, I see a shift between the spinner and the prop
Thanks
Kobi
I use the Gator flow thru spinner on my 200 sold by F3A Unlimited, it has a lightened back plate:- https://www.f3aunlimited.com/gator-spinner-82mm-red.

However, be careful on over tightening on spinner with a lightened plate, may cause warping. If the prop is slipping, just put two spacers made out of sand paper - one between the drive washer & the back plate, & the other one between the front of the back plate & the prop - that should solve the problem.

Adrian

Last edited by riot3d; 09-20-2018 at 03:59 PM.
Old 09-20-2018, 07:12 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by riot3d
I use the Gator flow thru spinner on my 200 sold by F3A Unlimited, it has a lightened back plate:- https://www.f3aunlimited.com/gator-spinner-82mm-red.

However, be careful on over tightening on spinner with a lightened plate, may cause warping. If the prop is slipping, just put two spacers made out of sand paper - one between the drive washer & the back plate, & the other one between the front of the back plate & the prop - that should solve the problem.

Adrian
Hi Adrian,

I've often looked at those spinners. The only thing that has stopped me getting one, is not knowing the weight. Can you tell me how much it weighs?

Sandpaper has never been successful for me. The driver serrations just cut through it. The only real solution I think is FT
Old 09-20-2018, 11:32 PM
  #168  
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Hi Scott,

The spinner is 50g

I agree sand paper doesn't last long because the rough material only on one side, that's why I have started using these pre-cut spacer from Japan for the past year, & the sand paper material is on both sides. So far, it works great.

Adrian
Old 09-21-2018, 12:22 AM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by riot3d



Hi Scott,

The spinner is 50g

I agree sand paper doesn't last long because the rough material only on one side, that's why I have started using these pre-cut spacer from Japan for the past year, & the sand paper material is on both sides. So far, it works great.

Adrian
Think I'll stick with the Marquette spinner
Old 09-24-2018, 11:11 PM
  #170  
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Hello
my question
Engine 200 CDI
Is it necessary to Put sponges inside the COEL ,
Between the cooling sides of the engine and the COWL
Do you do that ?
thanks
Kobi
Old 09-24-2018, 11:27 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by kobi
Hello
my question
Engine 200 CDI
Is it necessary to Put sponges inside the COEL ,
Between the cooling sides of the engine and the COWL
Do you do that ?
thanks
Kobi

Hi Kobi,

Depends if the engine gets hot. I did in my Xareltoo, but didn't have to in my Valiant.

Scott
Old 09-25-2018, 01:19 AM
  #172  
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Thanks Scott
How much temperature is allowed to engine getting ?
And in any area in the engine you measure it ?
kobi
Old 09-25-2018, 01:57 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by kobi
Thanks Scott
How much temperature is allowed to engine getting ?
And in any area in the engine you measure it ?
kobi
45 - 60 degrees Celsius is OK. Measured just to the side of the regulator.
Old 09-26-2018, 10:53 AM
  #174  
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What is the recommended muffler for the 200? I just received my engine but it seems that obtaining a header and muffler is going to be more problematic - Do the 185 mufflers work for the 200? What is the best source for a muffler now that Hatori is gone?

Chris
Old 09-26-2018, 11:30 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by Agilefalcon
What is the recommended muffler for the 200? I just received my engine but it seems that obtaining a header and muffler is going to be more problematic - Do the 185 mufflers work for the 200? What is the best source for a muffler now that Hatori is gone?

Chris
There's no problems getting mufflers and headers. YS sell both. http://www.yspower.co.jp/en/engine/acce.html

185 ones are fine.

Last edited by drac1; 09-26-2018 at 03:22 PM.


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