r3bldr

My Feedback: (6)

I bought a used 2 meter Finesse that I want to mount my Saito 1.50 in and I'd like to buy a nice Hyde soft mount for it. The problem is I only see mounts 'advertised' for OS and YS engines. does anybody know which one or the part number for a mount to fit my Saito?

rcprecision

My Feedback: (6)

r3bldr,

Try inquiring directly to Merle Hyde the designer/manufacture of the Hyde mounts.

Merle Hyde, 3 Golf View Drive, Henderson, NV 89074.
Ph/fax: 702-269-7829 or e-mail: [email protected]

Troy Newman

The difference in the motor mounts for the most part is the spacing on the beams. If you have a YS 140 mount and an OS 140 mount the Isolator is basically the same. Sometimes Merle sticks a flat spot on the top of the isolator to accommodate the rear exhaust 2 stroke motors. Not sure if he is still doing that or not. But the rubber content and the way the isolators are made are basically the same.

The question becomes what is the width of the case and are the Beams spaced properly. The OS and YS are the same physical dims. My guess the Saito 150 should be in the ball park also...

But Merle can make you a custom mount specifically for the motor.


[email protected]


TN

jamesjoneill

The Saito 150 (and by extension the 120 and 180) have the same mounting hole arrangement (hols spacing and crank case width) as the YS 140's. BUT bear in mind two things - firstly, the Saito's have a web coming forwards from the mounting lug. Depending on the type of mount this may or may not interfere. Secondly, the Saito is a different length (can't remeber for sure whether it is slightly longer or shorter, it's a couple of years since I replaced my Saito with a YS so can't recall exactly which way I had to move the mounting holes), I think it is shorter though.

These should not be of much concern when installing from scratch but may need to be considered if swapped from YS to Saito or vice-versa.

James

fishgod

My Feedback: (13)

Merle is really great to deal with. I am putting togeather my first pattern plane, a Focus version 1 and wanted a softmount that didn't need a nose ring. I emailed about an A style mount and told him I need it for a Mintor 170. I got a response back very quickly. I told him I wanted one, sent him a money order and a few days later the mount was at the house. The Mintor fit perfectly. The top of the mount was squared off to allow clearence for the header. He was very helpfull. He also let me know that if I had any questions mounting it to let him know. Email him and he will help you out.

Michael Laggis
"AKA" Moose-Boy
NSRCA 3618

raptor5900

My Feedback: (4)

hey guys i just got my mintor 170 in and i have the OS mount for it, it fits perfect but the header runs into the mount???? do i have to cut it down?

TOYMAKER

My Feedback: (6)

RAPTOR

Here is what I did to make mine work. This is my custom mount. I originally had my Aries setup for an OS.
If you are still building the plane it will work if you mount the engine way out to the end of the beams.

Wayne G.

raptor5900

My Feedback: (4)

I could cut it down but then would that mean i would have to get a new rubber ring for the mount?

r3bldr

My Feedback: (6)

I sent off an email to Merle to see what he says. The crankcase width of the Saito (1.81") falls in between all the OS/YS specs of 1.75 to 1.90 so that's not a problem, but I've seen pictures of these mounts with capscrews already tapped into the beams. I want to make sure my engine bolts in cleanly. I've also ripped out all the crushed and fuel soaked plywood up front and will make a new firewall assembly so engine spacing won't be a problem either.

TOYMAKER

My Feedback: (6)

If I remember correctly there is no room or smooth surface on the front of the crank on a Saito for a nose ring.
You will probably have to get his mount version that does not require a nose ring. It is larger and heavier then the std mount.


Raptor...
Do not cut the mount for the clearance you will ruin the mount. If you want I could make you one like mine. Email me off line.

Wayne

stevezero

My Feedback: (11)

Look at www.piedmontmodels.com Lee shows a "cheap" homemade softmount that uses the Dave Brown 4 120FS mount, and neoprene well nuts. I made a similar mount for my Dr J. PHD for a saito 150, and it has worked well so far. We drilled the firewall to accommodate 8/32 or 10/32 neoprene well nuts (cant remember which at the moment), mounted the dave brown mount to the firewall, and then laid the engine in place for proper spinner/backplate alignment. It's cheap,low tech, adjustable for thrust (either by washers or just an extra 1/4-1/2 turn on the closest well nut. Best part is, if you change out to a different engine, you just spend $6.00 for a new Dave Brown mount and it bolts right into place. All up cost (including the DB mount) was less than $10.00. Cant even buy a movie ticket and popcorn for that

Steve

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks for the link, Steve. I didnt want to put a soft mount on my new Widebody 60, so I put on a dave brown mount. Now I will change the hardware and redrill the holes for a semi-soft mont. Hey, Something is better than nothing!

stevezero

My Feedback: (11)

One or two words of caution on these. I would routinely check the well-nut bolts to make sure they are snug. If you decide to use threadlock on them, make sure it is the removable type (not the red loctite). I now use elmers tite-n-up, or a small dap of blue rtv silicone on mine after I noticed that one started to creep loose a little bit (culprit turned out to be a slightly warped spinner causing vibration). The blue RTV will allow you to remove the mount without spinning the well nuts, or tearing them trying to grip them. The red loctite will cause the brass insert in the well nut to come out of the well nut, or spin around inside it.

baronbrian

My Feedback: (13)

O.K.- another question;
How much benifit do you think would be obtained if ONLY the fuel tubing/neoprene washers were used? Or do the well nuts supply the most of the vibration resistance? Again, I am at the something is better than nothing viewpoint for THIS project, and i wonder....
Also, any sound readings with /without the full mount setup on the same plane?
Thanks again,

stevezero

My Feedback: (11)

Brian,

I use only the well nuts and not the fuel tubing. The well nuts are thick enough to be able to bite into the firewall, but soft enough to allow the engine to float some. The key part is to make your well nut holes in the firewall just the right size. Practice on another piece of lightply with different bit sizes aand mount the nuts. try and pull them, twist them, etc. then take the best bit size and drill the firewall.