how should i pull the aileron servos leads on a widebody 40?
#1
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From: AU
how should i pull the aileron servos leads on a widebody 40?
im not sure how to go about this
would it be ok to join the wings (with epoxy/fiberglass) then cut a hole in the servo lead channel in the center of the joined wing to pull the aileron servo leads?
im not sure how to go about this
would it be ok to join the wings (with epoxy/fiberglass) then cut a hole in the servo lead channel in the center of the joined wing to pull the aileron servo leads?
#2

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Usually wings have root (or end) ribs that are glued together at the center. It would be difficult to make a hole for the leads in them. What I have done on similar planes is to cut/drill two holes, one in each wing just outboard of the root ribs. Make sure they will be insde the fuselage! It's easier to do this before the wings are joined because usually you can see the servo lead tubes (or openings in the ribs) from the ends. You can then line up the holes you will make with these.
If you fiberglass the center section, just cut through the glass with an xacto knife after the resin/epoxy cures. You will be able to see the holes.
It will make things easier later if you install servo lead tubes in the wings. If you have to change the leads for some reason, or if you switch radio equipment form plane to plane, it will make it easy to snake the leads through the wings for re-installation. The tubes can be made from rolled paper and tape! Cheap and easy. Or you can get cardboard ones at the hobby shop. Of course, this needs to be done before you join the wings.
Hope this helps.
Dave
If you fiberglass the center section, just cut through the glass with an xacto knife after the resin/epoxy cures. You will be able to see the holes.
It will make things easier later if you install servo lead tubes in the wings. If you have to change the leads for some reason, or if you switch radio equipment form plane to plane, it will make it easy to snake the leads through the wings for re-installation. The tubes can be made from rolled paper and tape! Cheap and easy. Or you can get cardboard ones at the hobby shop. Of course, this needs to be done before you join the wings.
Hope this helps.
Dave
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From: AU
i havent put the wing halves together, but they already have channels for the leads, and the manual doesnt mention anything about putting wood between the 2 halves, so i guess put the halves together, fiberglass it, then cut a hole
#4

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Your plane has FOAM wings, right? I assumed they were all wood. You could, then, drill a single hole after the wings are joined and glassed. Just be sure to mark the location of the servo lead channel on the wings before you join them so you'll know where to drill the hole.
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From: AU
excellent, thanks, just wasnt sure if a hole drilled in the center would affect the strength in a significant way
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From: JoivinlleSC, BRAZIL
Hi,
With my WideBody I made a center rib out of 1/8" liteply because I think a foam/wood joint is much stronger than a foam to foam joint. Also I covered my plane with tissue and dope doubling the tissue at the wing center area. Got it very strong and light.
Wladimir
With my WideBody I made a center rib out of 1/8" liteply because I think a foam/wood joint is much stronger than a foam to foam joint. Also I covered my plane with tissue and dope doubling the tissue at the wing center area. Got it very strong and light.
Wladimir
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From: AU
tissue and dope? wow i didnt think that was used for any modern rc aircraft anymore, if i were to put a center ply rib in the wing would there be anything else to change at all with the wing?
#9

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The ply rib makes good sense. Also, extra ply for the fuselage bottom and nylon bolts for the main gear.
Do the foam parts come sheeted with balsa? The website is confusing on this. I assume they do the sheeting at the factory.
Does the engine have to be inverted for thrust lines?
Do the foam parts come sheeted with balsa? The website is confusing on this. I assume they do the sheeting at the factory.
Does the engine have to be inverted for thrust lines?
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From: JoivinlleSC, BRAZIL
Hi all,
I got mine directly from the factory in Argentina for about US$80 (I was there...hehe)
The kit comes with the fin, rudder, stabs and wings presheeted, you have to sheet the turtle deck and the after deck. I have used white glue for this.
The manual is not very useful. You must be reasonably experienced to build this kit, but you can frame it in two hours or less.
Tissue and dope adds a great amount of strengh to the airframe and I like using it. Messy and smelly but it makes for a wonderful finish.
The engine must sit at 45 to 90 degrees inverted, there is no place for enclosed pipes here so a >.63 4 stroke or a muffled .60 is in order.
For the builders this kit is definitively recommended, this year I will bring two Widebody 60 to home...(expecting to pay about US$100 ea.)
Have yet to weight my model...
Wladimir in Brazil
I got mine directly from the factory in Argentina for about US$80 (I was there...hehe)
The kit comes with the fin, rudder, stabs and wings presheeted, you have to sheet the turtle deck and the after deck. I have used white glue for this.
The manual is not very useful. You must be reasonably experienced to build this kit, but you can frame it in two hours or less.
Tissue and dope adds a great amount of strengh to the airframe and I like using it. Messy and smelly but it makes for a wonderful finish.
The engine must sit at 45 to 90 degrees inverted, there is no place for enclosed pipes here so a >.63 4 stroke or a muffled .60 is in order.
For the builders this kit is definitively recommended, this year I will bring two Widebody 60 to home...(expecting to pay about US$100 ea.)
Have yet to weight my model...
Wladimir in Brazil
#11

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That is a very good price compared to up here. Thanks for the build info. Helps a lot. It seems that you really like the plane. Haven't used dope and tissue since building rubber powered planes when I was a kid. I guess I'll be shopping around for better prices. This seems to be a great kit.
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From: Concepcion, CHILE
On my W40, I joined the wings just like the manual said, and fiberglassed using the supplied cloth, nothing extra or fancy.
I made one hole on the center of the wing over the wire "channel" with my Dremel. Very easy.
Good luck, it is a superb plane!
Saludos,
Jean Paul
I made one hole on the center of the wing over the wire "channel" with my Dremel. Very easy.
Good luck, it is a superb plane!
Saludos,
Jean Paul



