I read where someone cut a ply rib to sandwich between the foam wing halves. It sounded like a good idea to me. Maybe some long dowels, expoxied a few inches down the span??? Maybe 30 minute epoxy doesn't soak into the balsa well......

blwblw, it's possible about the 30 min epoxy. I think on the ARC this step is done for you.

rc sport,

I remember a previous message about a wing breaking, and it must have been yours. I haven't fiberglassed a plane yet, so this will be a first time method for me. I was also wondering about thinning the epoxy just a little so that it flowed well and penetrated balsa and the fg material. I did hear a tip about spreading it with a credit card once it is all down for smoothing and penetrating. It is supposed to make sanding easier after a second light coat.

To get the epoxy to flow, you can either put both bottles in a hot water "bath" for a few minutes before you mix them, or take your heat gun and pass it over the spread "cold" epoxy after it is put down and spread out. Just get it to flow out, not any hotter. Either way, you will have epoxy that will soak in just fine. I have been doing it like this for over 20yrs, and never a failure.

I did thin mine alittle bit which allows it flow better but it also slows down the drying time. I used a credit card to smooth it out made sanding easier.

See the fact sheet at www.probuild-uk.co.uk I've always been told to use thinned epoxy. Some say to mix alchohol with the epoxy to thin it out but I always use dedicated stuff.

The site had the comment that single layer fiberglass would be a cause of a wing snapping at the fuselage point.

That's interesting, the Widebody instructions just have you do one layer. Maybe thats why my wing failed.

Mine had three layers of 2 oz cloth starting with a narrow strip in the center and then a little bigger and finall the outer layer the same size as the supplied "Boat repair" fiberglass. I also had a CF strip 1" wide top and bottom from wingtip to wingtip on the outer skin just behind the high point on the wing.

You'll note the word "had" in the above sentence. My WB60 went straight in nose first going very fast on Saturday. Destroyed it completely......the wing broke at the edge of the widest fiberglass strip and was held together only by the CF strips after the crash. The fuse was in peices no bigger than a business card from the wing TE forward. My new YS110 was buried up the firewall.....[&o]

Richard

BTW - what was the number for PP again???

Thats on 2 meter models though, the WB is smaller. I never heard of using straight epoxy though.

rwlewis, ouch sorry to hear about this. Did the wing break before or after the crash? Call Carla and she'll send you a new ARC. The website has the #.

The wing broke on impact with terra-firma....[&o].

The crash was caused by a failed elevator pull-pull linkage. The knot in the Spider-wire where it attached to the rigging coupler pulled out. The knot was not CA'd properly by the builder.....me[&o]. Once one side of the elevator was unconstrained, it fluttered and destroyed the remaining elevator linkage to the other half.

Richard

I had a WB60 until the right wing half snapped in flight. I was coming out of knife edge at about 1/2 throttle when the wing snapped about 4 inches from the fuse side. I fiberglassed the center section of the wing but it not break anywhere near the center section. I plan on building another WB60 this winter and I will install a fiber carbon rod as a wing spar.

extra, I picked up my second WB and I plan on doing that same alteration.

question about the control surfaces, did everyone cut them out like the instructions say, 4mm then 10mm cut lines

Does nayone have the web site for CA Models? My search won't find it and I didn't save it to favorites. Thanks

camodel.com

http://www.camodel.com.ar/Ingles/homeingles.htm

Thanks, It looks like a lot of the work/fun is already done. Great videos.
Mike

ok have a question on the wide body 60 stab, there are 2 solid lines about 3/4 of an inch apart is this the top? There are 2 dashed lines about 1/4 of an inch apart. is this the bottom? The instructions say to draw a line just like the one on top to go on the bottom then draw 2 more lines 4mm, then 14mm for the bottom, since the stab I have has these lines already drawn which lines to I cut from, kinda confusing, the wing is not drawn out this way, any help would be appreciated

I would say the 3/4" appart lines are drawn on the bottom. The intent is for the hinge line of the elevators to be at the top edge of the stab. This mean you would remove a wedge shaped peice that is 1/4 thick at the top and 3/4" thick at the bottom. Then when you cap the TE of the stab and the LE of the elevator with 1/8 balsa, the elevator will sit back in it's original position with a wide gap in the bottom surface and no gap at the top....

That being said, I center hinged mine. I cut a straight piece out 3/4" wide and capped the LE of the elevator and TE of the stab with 3/8" balsa. If you are doing pull-pull elevators, this makes the geometry easier (for me anyway).

Richard

so just cut them on the 2 solid lines, did you do the wing the same way center hinge

A Picture is worth a thousand words......

The pic is missing the text "Cut here on Bottom" in the top hinge example.

I top hinged the ailerons. It looks better, and with a conventional linkage (pushrod) it works just as well as center hinged.

Richard

ok I never top hinged before always center hinged, what type of hinges do you use, and how are they installed, thanks for the drawing, Richard

Here is my new widebody 60. 6 flights and it is a great flying plane[:-]
OS 91FX with pitts muffler and tank up front - 14x8 prop at 10,500 rpm
All standard construction and standard gear without pants.
It weighs 6lbs 14 oz and has CF rods on ele and pull-pull on rudder.
Trimming it out and everything looks good at this point

Consturction:
Turtle deck worked OK with a 2 hr soak in 10%bleach
Wood quality was super and the laser job is outstanding
The stab cutout is small and it is time intense to fix it
Ultrakote and paint on outside

Flying:
The throws are very active and it takes about 1/2 the throws I thought would be good for the plane.
CG came out 35%back from LE and it needs to move back later
The horizontal balance is key on this one it makes it drop a wing if it is off at all

All and all a great plane and I will check out the 3D later