kennyandannie

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Hi guys,

Does this wing come off from the top, or is this a 2 piece wing?

Ken

ElectRick

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I have a MVVS .91 with the good carb coming for my Excelleron. I bought the plane totally on a whim after reading this thread and lurking on the NSRCA discussion threads<thanks Aerobob >, and because it was on sale and such an amazing value for $200.
But reading this thread, I'm beginning to get a little pumped about it. I dabbled in pattern a few years ago, but I doubt I'll ever try to fly it again competitively. Nonetheless, this should make a great high performance sport ship that might just serve to re-kindle that spark (who knows?). Either way, I have always loved flying such honest flying planes as most thoroughbred pattern ships are. I've flown strictly electrics for the past three years, so this will be a re-initiation of sorts. If I could justify the cash outlay for a big Hacker and a truckload of LiPos, I'd have gone that direction. Simple economics prevents that, however.

That said, I'm wondering how/where you guys are installing your tanks? Is anyone planning on using a fuel pump, and won't it be necessary if the tank is mounted back near the CG? I'm going to try a Hattori 650 pipe on my MVVS (RE configured). I have a Perry VP-30 available, but don't know if it's desirable or even preferred over a Cline or Iron Bay regulator on pipe pressure. I have zero experience with either of these regulator devices.

Comments? Suggestions? I haven't begun assembly yet, waiting on the engine to arrive. I then need to find a suitable fuse-top header for it. It looks as though a header for a YS .61 will fit the exhaust port, but not sure without the engine in hand.

Rick

olddogg60

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Hi Bob,
I did not realize that the picture did not clearly show that the pipe is partially in not on the belly pan. I thought I would get some of the cutting out of the way before I attached the belly pan to the wing. Good advise on the cut out width. I need to expand the belly pan cutout also. I will be moveing the fuel tank to the rear and down as low as it will go so that it will clear the pipe cutout in the firewall and to get it closer to the carb level. The rear of the tuned pipe clears the fuselage behind the wing but I think that I will use the exhaust deflector as an insulator and to get the exhaust away from the belly.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Kennyanddannie - one piece wing. Comes off from the BOTTOM.
Olddogg60 Bill - thanks. Hope you don't think I was being critical; I know that we like to keep things close, but pipes and headers as a rule of thumb need at LEAST 1/4" all around, and I try to get to 3/8-1/2". Yeah, it ain't as pretty, but it's about COOLING....you do NOT want that wing center section joint to get too warm, eh?[&o]

Rick - Thanks! I can tell you that THIS AIRPLANE *will* reignite the spark. It is an exceptional performer, with wild throws you can go 3D or Artistic Aerobatics CRAZY. Tone 'em down to 15-17 degrees A/E, and you have a beautiful, solid, and groovy pattern bird, capable of F3A.
My words on the Cline/Iron Bay - btdt on both - no longer use 'em. IF you need a pump, the Perry VP30 is the ticket. That is the configuration I'm using on my OS 1.60's on 2M birds. Flawless. All of my regulator efforts ended up with inconsistent reliability over the long haul, and would NOT work just at the wrong moment (like in Ready Box 1 at a contest!!!)
Tank is always better on the CG, but the moment is pretty short on this, so I left it forward. We'll see over the long haul if I leave it there. It was just too easy to do it stock. Leaves everything "right there" at the firewall where you can get to it. I like that part.

Happy New Year, ya'll.... 2005 will ROCK!!!!

Bob Pastorello

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olddogg60 - I get it NOW -
You're one of those meticulous guys.... You even layed out lines on the bottom!!!!
I just sorta eyeball stuff, start hacking away (usually with a power tool), THEN measure. Amazing that my stuff even FLIES....

Yours is gonna be GREAT!!!!

kennyandannie

My Feedback: (2)

Bob,

That's the way my Quest is, I was confused when I saw that your pipe was installed with zip ties, neat install but a pain to pull the wing after your fun. Do hose clamps work for the pipe install? It looks like that would be easier to remove the pipe. I'm new to this type of muffler system, I used the stock muffler on my Quest, just so I wouldn't have to go through this every time. I'm thinkin' I should have done it your way.

Ken

Bob Pastorello

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It's just one zip tie per flying session. I remove the one on the pipe neck. Since it is soft mounted, it is pretty easy to work it out of the short coupler piece. All the flex is a good thing; reduces noise and vibration.

I should have mentioned that.
The canister is held on my pipe mount with an o-ring that loops around the canister, and under screw heads on either side of the pipe cradle. It isn't very easy to install, but then that doesn't get messed with unless it breaks!

kennyandannie

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Got it, Bob,

Thanks,

Ken

olddogg60

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AeroBob,

No, just the opposite. I appreciate the input. I was thinking clearance for heat and didn't really know how hot the pipe would get that far back. I had not given that much thought to the engine rocking around. I looked closely at your pictures and saw that you had considerably more clearance. Easier to make it bigger then smaller.
I tell Ya, I'm not that meticulous. I just want it to resemble something like a straight cut. I was also trying to see when I should stop bending the header. I'll do some more cutting and get it sheeted. I'll put up more pic's then and see what you think.
A very Happy New Year to you Bob and to everyone else too.!!

Jim Oliver

My Feedback: (1)

Hey olddogg60,

Thanks for the pix of the TT120/pipe set-up. Do I correctly understand that you did NOT have to do any surgery to the fuse behind the wing T.E. to clear the pipe exhaust? I can't quite see what I think I want to see from the pix.

Thanks,

GDAVIS

Bob,
I ran into the same problem on my TS 120 engine lugs as you did with the ST 2300. What type of grinding bit did you use to grind off the lugs?
Thanks
Greg

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

It's the #115. 5/16" diameter, end and side cutting bit. Looks like a mill bit. I held the dremel parallel to the crankshaft and just worked the square edge of the bit from the outside edge of the lug working toward the crankcase. It worked very nicely. Easy. Wally World has the bit, too.

I also mounted the engine mount with 6-32 socket heads into blind nuts, easier to shift/change for different thrust/offsets, etc.

olddogg60

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Pattern Student,
I'll put up some more pictures here and I will have better ones tomorrow. I have the wing together now so I can mount the belly pan. The pipe will clear the fuselage past the wing. The pipe is on a downward angle to do that. You could leave it flat and modify the fuselage further back but I don't see that it is necessary. This way the pipe is more in the breeze for cooling. Does anybody see a down side to this?
Question for AeroBob. Did you mount the belly pan with silcon sealer as the manual states to do or cut the covering and epoxy the belly pan on?

GDAVIS

Thanks Bob,

I'll have to go to Walmart tomorrow and get one. Forgot to say that It just needs about 2mm shaved of the ends of the lugs. That is a good idea to use the blind nuts for mounting. I'll do the same.

To answer your weight question I just weighed the engine on a digital mail scale and got

muffler with bolts 6.6 oz
engine,washer,nut 25.9 oz
total 32.5 oz

Greg

Bob Pastorello

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Neither. I used a pin and punched about a zillion holes in the edges of the belly pan. Put in place on the wing, drew lines.... put a FEW pin holes here and there, but most of it was where I had my CF weave epoxied to the wing anyway. SO I just sanded that to roughen it, used thick CA, put 'er on there...she's stuck fer GOOD.... NO signs of loosening, and remember I did all of my tunnel making/cutting/carving with it glued on the wing.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

That is outstanding. You may have to park your battery back a bit, but maybe not. If you do, don't be bashful at all about cutting a hatch in the fuse bottom, building in the stuff to hold the batt wherever you need it. Remember, if you do it once, correctly, for a given engine, you never have to change it again, so .... it's a pretty good investment to get away from having to use ballast.

The 2mm sounds about like what the ST needed removed.

JVB

My Feedback: (2)

Aerobob,

Have you ever considered a Jett Turbo in-cowl muffler for your st2300? Looks like the Excelleron fuse may be too narrow for something like that. It would eliminate the header, pipe, and tunnel. I don't know how well they work, but I am considering one for my new plane so I don't have to make all of the mods to the bottom of the fuse.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

No, didn't consider that, as a friend had one awhile back. It's a pretty large diameter, and relatively-thick, so on an inverted motor would require all sorts of hacking. Plus, they are VERY loud; well over the 96db that I want to make.

The KS canister was also laying on my workbench gathering dust....so...check my Avatar !

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

olddogg60 - VERY nice work on the tunnel, and going behind the t.e. Proves that it's do-able...so...maybe I will consider a 1.20 on a pipe like you're doing for Exc. #2 (still NIB) Looks VERY nicely done!!

olddogg60

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Thanks aerobob. I widened it all up as per your advise.

Did you reinforce the wing center section?

Bill

Bob Pastorello

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Yep. I marked the tunnel on the joined wing, then carefully removed the covering on the bottom. In the bare space that left, I used some .5 oz CF weave cloth (not matting, this is a unidirectional fiber stuff from Lonestart Balsa) laminated with epoxy. May not do honkus for reinforcement, but the psychological factor was helpful. I only did the bottom, also.

olddogg60

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Pattern Student,
Here are a couple of more pic's. The wing and belly pan are just set in place and the pipe is resting on the fuselage at this point. I haven't figured out the rear pipe mount yet but I will raise the pipe off of the fuselage just a bit. In the one pic the belly pan is removed so you can see the pipe clearance from the wing.

Bill

olddogg60

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Thanks Bob. I understand. Peace of mind. Your pipe mount is attached to the CF then?
Bill

LShaver

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Hello Bob...tried your blue tint ( Testers 1257) on the Icepoint canopy and glued it down...sort of gaves it that 2 meter flavor...on #2 I think I'll recover around the canopy so the striping will match better.
Hope you got to fly this weekend
Doc

Jeff Page

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Bob, does the pyramid loop in the 2005 Masters have the long segment on the bottem or the top? thought you might know----Jeff B