Shadetreeflyer

Can anyone tell me what the differences in the Oxalys 50 nitro version and the electric version are? I would like to know if there are really any significant difference? Such as in weight or hatches for battery access ect.. The reason I ask is the electric version is considerably more expensive than the nitro version.

I will be using an electric motor for power. If there are no major differences I would just buy the nitro version and convert it to electric power. I know the electric version comes with a different motor mount but I want to know of any significant differences to justify the cost difference Thanks

ctsh

I just had to take off my Oxalys 260cc tank because there was a fuel leak and I found that there was some consumed parts in the structure.

First question: is there a original 260cc tank for sale?

Has someone tried to install a bigger tank, like a 300 or 320cc? If yes could please put some photo or schema to help me? Im using a Saito 82 without pump then it must be behing the firewall.

Thanks.

ctsh

No one?!

Super D

I believe I used a 320cc tank. Cant remember which brand probably sullivan or dubro. I also think it was a slim. I'll try to check mine out over the weekend.
Dylan

rolyjr

Hi all,

I finished my Oxalys 50 a week ago. It has a OS55AX in it with pipe – took a while to modify for the pipe, but came out well. I am currently flying Sportsman class, and my previous plane was the Showtime 50 with the same setup. The Showtime is 400gr heavier with the Oxalys weighing in at 2.56kg. This includes two coats of clear coat on the fuzz – came out brilliantly. Did this to prevent the covering issues that a lot of people seem to have had.

The power on with this set up is unbelievable. Half to two thirds throttle on vertical and even then it carries on going. Currently running a 12x6, but need to go to maybe 13x5/4 to slow the plane down. Flying at 5,700 feet above sea level – any suggestions on props?

Regarding the tank, I have put a 320cc in mine. It is a World Models product. Had to grind out the existing formers used to strap the 260cc tank in. Put in a lot of foam to surround the tank, and a screwed in a piece of ply at the back to hold the tank forward. works well.

Thanks
Roly

piroflip2

Hi there

I only fly in the lower F3A class in England but it seems to me that you need a coarser pitch prop.
A 13 x 4/5 would be more a 3D type prop.

btw, I have a little Oxalys and it goes very well on a Saito 82.

rolyjr

Hi all,

Haven't tried any other props yet, but have adjusted the throttle curve drastically which pretty much allows for only up to 60% available at 3/4 stick position. Has made a vast improvement on the throttle management. maybe i will just leave it as is.

Roly

danmix

have anyone tried the oxalys with the t-canalizer yet ??
and plz tell somthing about how the plane react with t-canalizer ?
can you fell different between it with or without ?

hezik

I have flown it with and without and didn't notice a large difference. It might need a little less rudder with the canalizer and possible it'll tend to pitch down slithly on allied rudder without the canalizer, but the ony reason I know this is because I heard other people (who typically don't own the .50 oxalys) told me so.

If i were to buy another one now, i'd leave it off. The difference in flight is marginal and groundhandling becomes more easy. I cannot begin to count the times I had to re-glue the canalizer back on after flipping the aircraft over to remove the wing and incidentally hitting the canalizer..

MJ-MERLIN

im building one with a saito 82 in it and would like to fit a bigger tank as the 260cc one looks too small
ant one whith a sugestion of a larger tank and how it would fit ?
pictures would be great .

merlin

MJ-MERLIN

I have been building my Oxalys this week with a saito 82 and thought I would share my progress
This kit is the EP version with a GP conversion kit (kyosho)
This means that I have some extra hatches in the underside for the lipos that I aint using !

Mod I have done
I have changed the tank to a Hanger 9 one from my crashed funtana 50x (320cc)
This fitted fine with only minor mod to the internal timber
I fitted captive nuts in for the cowling fixings
Used a remote glow connected using a 3.5mm headphone jack
I balanced it last night and found I will have to mount the 5 cell 1400mah pack behind the wing but I should be able to get in without having to cut another hatch in the tail.
Other than that I have used all that stock linkages ant hardware.

Just a few more little bits to fit and it should maiden this bird Sunday




















Sorry about the fuzzy picks but it was taken on my phone

maukaonyx

Where is the best price on the Oxalys 50 now? Thanks. Jon

onewasp

I think you mean the ONLY place in the US_____as well as the best (only) price.

[email protected]

He deserves the business as he has stayed with it for three years now___from July 2005 through July, 2008.

That ought to tell you something !!!!!

MJ-MERLIN

i have maiden this bird and its fly great
i have had about 6 flights on it and about to start fine trimming it
but before i do that i have a question
the caniliser thingy on its spine,
is it worth putting it on as i have left it off at the mo
knife edge requires less than 1% elevator and it ever so slightly rolls out
nothing i cant handle tho
will the cantiliser thingy help ????

merlin

MTK

Leave it off. If you got the dihedral correct, it shouldn't need any roll mix. Knife edge flight pitches very slightly to canopy on mine, but very manageable with no elevator mixing. Up and down lines are very close. A really good little model that has full capability to perform F3A schedules. Mine knife edge loops easily (YS63, 12x8) so there's ample power for practically anything. And BTW, this little model performs truly flat rudder turns in either direction. Very sporty.

However, the nice table manners of the small model don't translate well to the larger brother. The larger brother definitely needs the T thingy help. Actually it only needs the dorsal fin without the horizontal surface. That goes for most of the current 2 meter designs. A small dorsal, about 10 to 15 sq inches, at mid ships around the wing's TE eliminates most of the dreaded pitch to belly with top rudder. FWIW

MattK

tclaridge

Does anyone have any tips on installing the wheel pants? I am having a hard time getting the double-nut next to the wheel to tighten at just the same time the outside nut tightens on the LG. I go back and forth, one tightens, other becomes too loose. . .

Any ideas?

MJ-MERLIN

Thanks MTK

think I'm still a little undecided as I don’t really think it needs it but I like the look of it, I think it looks “wizzy� but on the other hand I know I'm goanna snap the dam thing off when transporting it or when I flip it over to fit the wing.

Tclaridge

It’s simple don’t fit them, my ones were junk !
I fitted mine and they only lasted a dozen flights.
I had them nice and tight and on a bed of hot glue to stop them rotating and to spread the load.
They still cracked and fell apart the ones in my kit were very light and flimsy so I have replaced them with a set from a crashed plane and also added an extra screw to fix them in place rather than just relying on the axle.

tclaridge

I finished my Oxalys 50EP and it flew great! The precision exceeded my expectations. My AUW was 5.3 lbs with a Power 46 and a TP 4S5000. This gives a wing load of 24 oz/sq ft, so I was worried it would fly a little hotter than I am use to. This was not the case and it was amazing how well it did slow flight. Glide was very good too. Power was just right with this motor, but it does not have unlimited vertical.

It basically handled like a full size pattern, and looked very very good in the air. Landings and TOs were easy.

The only complaint I have is the battery compartment was too small for a 4S5000. A 4S 3300 or 3850 would fit. However, I like the longer flight time with a 5000 mah and the wing load is perfect, so I mounted the bigger battery above the wing. I think this also helps to move the weight and CG closer to the thrust line, as now the battery is directly in line with the motor.

MTK

I have decided to sell my Oxalis 50. Just engine (YS63, 12x8apc and TT spinner), plumbing and plane. No radio equipment. 399$ US or BO

Also have a Brio 10 I need to sell. Hacker motor (16M and 40A controller). Again no radio. 199$ US or BO

Anyone interested, please contact me in a PM.

Matt Kebabjian

hezik

Indeed. It's not needed and if you put it on you're bound to break it off sooner or later when you turn the plane upside down on the field or something. It's just a hassle and not worth it.

Mine didn't pitch, you might consider slightly lowering both ailerons to get rid of this behaviour.

This is not true. The dorsal fin part of the canaliser, is not the effective part. The whole idea of the canalizer is that the turbulent air behind the canopy is 'canalized' towards the horizontal stab/rudder, hence the name. Without the horizontal surface, the canalizer is pretty useless, though it might slightly improve knife edge behaviour simply because it enlarges the area that carries the plane when flying knife edge.

The big Oxalys really needs the canalizer WITH horizontal part, and set with the correct incidence.

MTK

This is not true. The dorsal fin part of the canaliser, is not the effective part. The whole idea of the canalizer is that the turbulent air behind the canopy is 'canalized' towards the horizontal stab/rudder, hence the name. Without the horizontal surface, the canalizer is pretty useless, though it might slightly improve knife edge behaviour simply because it enlarges the area that carries the plane when flying knife edge.

The big Oxalys really needs the canalizer WITH horizontal part, and set with the correct incidence.
[/quote]
Hezik,

Have you tried using the dorsal without the horizontal? I think you will be surprised. The dorsal at midships adds very little area to the overall side area of the fuse but adds enough as a pivot of sorts, just like a shark's dorsal, to makes the model more agile in yaw (just like a shark). Take the dorsal away from the shark and the animal's fearsome reputation as a top predator could be compromised. The dorsal also adds some effective vertical area to top side of the fin and rudder, eventhough it is found at midships. This raises the CP of the fin and rudder which increases the down moment on the tail when rudder is applied.

Every model we have added a small dorsal to, either at midships or further back in front of the fin, has required much much less elevator mixing to fly a straight knife edge. BTW, some of the guys use a piece of 1/4" Depron as dorsal. Simple to do and tune the shape

What we all seek (the holy grail for pattern models) is a model that needs no electronic mixing to fly true under all attitudes. If the horizontal adds trueness to your plane, great. I am saying it isn't necessary

Matt Kebabjian

hezik

Ah well, in the end it's a matter of personal preference, everyone trims his or her plane the way he or she likes it, what works for one doesnt work for the other and vice versa.

All I know that the whole design idea behind the canalizer is solely based on the horizontal part. It is ment to give you the benefits of a biplane without the hassle of an extra wing. The dorsal fin part was merely placed because.. well, you need something to keep the horizontal part in it's place

Wether or not it does that in real life, I haven't checked, nor am I going to, since I don't own a full size Oxalys (before we get into that discussion, I do know people with this airplane and I have had lengthy discussions about the canalizer with more than one pilot). One point everyone in these discussion agreed on, is that on the big Oxalys the canalizer IS effective and that the incidence of the Canalizer DOES matter. Another thing all pilots seem to agree on, is that there is no such thing as 'the perfect plane' which works for everyone.. each pilot has his or her own flying style. For instance; do you set all surfaces to 0 incidence and no down thrust on yer engine so that you always need to give some up while flying a straight line (makes the easy stuf somewhat harder but the difficult stuf much easier) or do you set an incidence and downthrust.. and so on and so on.. millions of things to experiment with and form your own opinion

However, this thread is about the small Oxalys, which I do own and we do both agree on that one; leave it of, it's not needed.

fabianomoser

Hello,

Please I want to know if this engine is enough to do F3A flight at OXALYS 50 ?

The weight on aircraft especifications are ~2400g weight. This are only airplane (empty) or with an class 50 engine, servos, and batteries together?
I want to find a good eletrical setting to this model.

Spec.
TR50-55B
Working Voltage: 8~30
Kv: 600
Weight: 300g
Shaft: 8mm
Dimensions: Length: 55mm
Thrust: 2200 ~ 4600g
Stator Size (AXi Measurement): 40-20
Recomended ESC: 80A
Suggested Prop: 5cell:14x9 / 6cell: 14x8
Shaft: 8mm
Power equivalent : .40 to .60 glow engine

Similar to AXi Gold 4120/14, E-Flite Power 46. Roughly equivalent to .46 2-stroke or .65 4-stroke glow engines.

Use this motor with 4-6 cell Li-Poly packs and 11-12 inch props on planes up to 8 lbs flying weight.
Manufacturer suggests a 12 x 8 prop on 6 cells or 13 x 10 on 4 cells.


Thanks for help.

Best regards,
Fabiano Moser
Lisbon/Portugal

hezik

Sorry for starting this discussion again, but did you see the new CPLR model (Axiome) ? Did you notice it has NO dorsal fin, but it DOES have the horizontal part.

Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

MTK

No it doesn't and yes you should be