Carbon build up
#1
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From: oakland,
CA
Does anyone have the same problem?
I am using the NMP header, Johnson pipe, Magnum DZ fuel (I believe 23% oil, 30% nitro) on my 140 / 160 DZ, I am having the toughest time keeping the engine from carbon build up. After about 20 flights, the header is full of carbon. I ended up sending the engine back to YS for de-carbonization almost after every 50 flights, even Richard Verano was puzzled with my problem.
Is my engine running too rich, pipe too constricted, temperature too high, too much oil and nitro, or a combination of all?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Adrian
I am using the NMP header, Johnson pipe, Magnum DZ fuel (I believe 23% oil, 30% nitro) on my 140 / 160 DZ, I am having the toughest time keeping the engine from carbon build up. After about 20 flights, the header is full of carbon. I ended up sending the engine back to YS for de-carbonization almost after every 50 flights, even Richard Verano was puzzled with my problem.
Is my engine running too rich, pipe too constricted, temperature too high, too much oil and nitro, or a combination of all?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Adrian
#3
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From: oakland,
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Actually, I have no idea what the nitro percentage is. Magnum doesn't let you know the exact oil and nitro combo. I got the info from the person I bought the fuel from.
#4

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YS Performance actually recommends 30% nitro fuel for the best performance. I've used it almost
exclusively for the past year and YS engine love it. The only thing is maybe your fuel has a little
too much oil content as YS recommends 20% low viscosity oil , which the PowerMaster I'm using has ,
but I'm not sure what the Magnum fuel has.
I don't know if it was just me or the fuel but I tried Magnum - Cool Power 30% in my YS 1.10 and could
not get the engine to run right but it runs very good on PowerMaster 30%.
tommy s
exclusively for the past year and YS engine love it. The only thing is maybe your fuel has a little
too much oil content as YS recommends 20% low viscosity oil , which the PowerMaster I'm using has ,
but I'm not sure what the Magnum fuel has.
I don't know if it was just me or the fuel but I tried Magnum - Cool Power 30% in my YS 1.10 and could
not get the engine to run right but it runs very good on PowerMaster 30%.
tommy s
#5
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From: Oslo, NORWAY
Possibly the greatest cause of carbon build-up is restriction. Try a diffrent pipe for a while.
With regards to the fuel I've been running CP 30% nitro on my YS's for years. Having tried lower contents with varing results I've come to the conclusion that nothing makes 'em happier than the 30%. Secondly, I land with a FAR greater fuel reserve (an understament really, more like 2 times as much) with the 30% compared to the lower levels.
Yes it's more expensive but in my case, it's been by far, cheaper to run a YS 1.40 on 30% than a OS 1.40 on 15%. Considerably.
What was the question again.
With regards to the fuel I've been running CP 30% nitro on my YS's for years. Having tried lower contents with varing results I've come to the conclusion that nothing makes 'em happier than the 30%. Secondly, I land with a FAR greater fuel reserve (an understament really, more like 2 times as much) with the 30% compared to the lower levels.
Yes it's more expensive but in my case, it's been by far, cheaper to run a YS 1.40 on 30% than a OS 1.40 on 15%. Considerably.
What was the question again.
#6

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From: Chicago,
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I had the exact same problem. I have a 140 DZ running magnum DZ fuel also. I use the old style NMP Central header. I noticed the problem after i lost significant RPM. The header inside was contricted to an 1/8" opening from carbon deposits.I also called Varrano at YS, and he stated he hasn't really heard of this prblem with DZs. Now that makes at least two of I know of. All I've done is just clean out the header. I have a feeling this is going to happen to more of us.
#7

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From: Chicago,
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P.S. I use a hatori pipe, which when i looked inside it was very clean. The carbon deposits seemed to only stick to the header. I'm also hoping for any better solution. Is it the fuel, a motor problem, or header problem(ie. to narrow) ??
Hey riot3d is your header the newer style NMP header from Central hobbies or the older style one that was out 3-4 years ago which has a sleeker/narrower front portion ??
Hey riot3d is your header the newer style NMP header from Central hobbies or the older style one that was out 3-4 years ago which has a sleeker/narrower front portion ??
#8

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I'm having the same problem on my 140s using Magnum 1.5 Just cleaned out the header pipe and exhaust valve area (removed head). It runs noticably better...but for how long?
I'm using a hatori header and pipe...I'm guessing restriction of exhaust flow is the main culprit in my case...
I'm using a hatori header and pipe...I'm guessing restriction of exhaust flow is the main culprit in my case...
#9
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From: oakland,
CA
Eno,
I was using the older style header until the middle of last year. The newer style definitely gives more rpm. But, I was having a lot of trouble with header coming loose, even broke two of the nut by over tightening. Therefore, returned to using the older style again, and the carbon problem became real severe. I have since solved the mounting problem with the help from the list and Al Coomber from Central Hobbies. However, the carbon buildup seems to persist.
I think once you have carbon on the valves, it will continue to build until de-carbonized, there is no way you can just clean the header. I was thinking of using Magnum # 1 with lesser oil percentage, but Verano told me both the 140 and 160 DZ runs better with higher oil percentage.
Don't get me wrong, I wasn't trying to blame any manufacturer, just trying to solicit suggestions.
Thank you all for the reply.
Adrian
I was using the older style header until the middle of last year. The newer style definitely gives more rpm. But, I was having a lot of trouble with header coming loose, even broke two of the nut by over tightening. Therefore, returned to using the older style again, and the carbon problem became real severe. I have since solved the mounting problem with the help from the list and Al Coomber from Central Hobbies. However, the carbon buildup seems to persist.
I think once you have carbon on the valves, it will continue to build until de-carbonized, there is no way you can just clean the header. I was thinking of using Magnum # 1 with lesser oil percentage, but Verano told me both the 140 and 160 DZ runs better with higher oil percentage.
Don't get me wrong, I wasn't trying to blame any manufacturer, just trying to solicit suggestions.
Thank you all for the reply.
Adrian
#10
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From: Lincoln,
NE
I was using the old style wrap around header AAP? for the 140Ls on a DZ. It has a narrow diameter pipe at the head compared to the new NMPs. I totally filled that header with carbon to the point the engine wouldn't run properly. The pipe (older hatori 120/140) was OK. I am not having the carbon buildup problem this year, but I changed a lot, so I don't know if the buildup was from one cause.
I changed the following 140DZ to 160DZ, Wildcat 30% to Coolpower Heli 30%, Old header to new NMP header, and old style hator pipe to newer less restrictive pipe. I know, probably doesn't help much since I changed so much, but something in the above mix or a combo thereof solved my carbon issue. If I had to guess, I'd say it was a combo of switching fuel and installing a less restrictive exhaust.
Cheers.
I changed the following 140DZ to 160DZ, Wildcat 30% to Coolpower Heli 30%, Old header to new NMP header, and old style hator pipe to newer less restrictive pipe. I know, probably doesn't help much since I changed so much, but something in the above mix or a combo thereof solved my carbon issue. If I had to guess, I'd say it was a combo of switching fuel and installing a less restrictive exhaust.
Cheers.
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From: Chicago,
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To me it is starting to look like the older style header may be culprit prone to buildup to the point of constriction. Just wondering if this build up has occurred with the newer NMP header??
Just wanted to know because I may just have to get the newer style header to prevent this problem.
Just wanted to know because I may just have to get the newer style header to prevent this problem.
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From: tulsa,
OK
The new NMP header is supposed to be a "cooling" header, I have this w/ about 10 gallons through it and only enough carbon to turn it black. PM 30%
I wonder if a higher temp tends to cook off the lube thats in the header, does the header carbon up at the widest part as well as the narrowest? Seams like the narrowest part of the header would be the hottest.
I wonder if a higher temp tends to cook off the lube thats in the header, does the header carbon up at the widest part as well as the narrowest? Seams like the narrowest part of the header would be the hottest.
#13

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From: Chicago,
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It builds up at the narrowest portion which is the beginning of the header.
I wonder if some petroleum based after run solvent will help?? I'm not sure if petroleum based sustances can be run thru a DZ without causes some engine problems however.
I wonder if some petroleum based after run solvent will help?? I'm not sure if petroleum based sustances can be run thru a DZ without causes some engine problems however.
#14
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From: oakland,
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Actually, I noticed the carbon on both the nut and the threads when I open up the outside cover after 10 flights to re-tighten the header. The carbon coated the inside of the nut so badly to the point I couldn't even fit the hex key for tightening. I had to scrape off the carbon with an x-acto knife before I could insert the hex key into the nut. I hope this is just an isolated case, I sure hate to keep sending engines to YS. May be I should really look into electric, nah, just kidding.
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
don't use any petroleum based solvents in any of the YS engines, as they all use silcone seals and diaphragms which will be damaged by the petroleum.
Have you tried changing the brand of fuel for a dozen flights or so? It could be the different types of oils in the different fuels, some could work better than others. I have never had carboning in any of my YS's (91/110/140L/140DZ/160DZ) which have all been run on coolpower 30. Maybe try a gallon of that?
James
Have you tried changing the brand of fuel for a dozen flights or so? It could be the different types of oils in the different fuels, some could work better than others. I have never had carboning in any of my YS's (91/110/140L/140DZ/160DZ) which have all been run on coolpower 30. Maybe try a gallon of that?
James



