Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Next I cut a set of 1/8 light ply triangles, about 1 inch by 1 inch. and put them in. I had to trim the bottom of each triangle to clear the glue line where the deck piece used to mate the fuselage. Finally I cut a couple of 1/4 inch square pieces and sanded them to fit into the old landing gear slot. Done!

Don Szczur

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Interchangeability. Since I'm building two BRIO's together, want to make sure that for example the canopy from one fits the other. This could be helpful at a competition when you loose a canopy in flight you can put another one on without having to go to the backup plane. It provides more options and lower risk. Same process as before. First marking the slots consistent with canopy 1 on to canopy 2, then mounting the tabs, drilling the front hole consistent. They both fit. I also tried the wings from Brio 1 on to Brio 2 and they are also turned out to be completely interchangeable.

omsflyer

Would like to know IF anyone is running an OS 1.60 in the Brio right now? And IF so what motor mount are you running...I have a Budd mount that is too big for the engine compartment, and forces the back plate to be 1/4" or more from the fuse nose.... And Jerry can't do another beam mount to move the bolts back...so I am stuck!
Thanks!!! Charlie Rock

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

Charlie, I am using the Hyde mount that dosen't require a nose ring. Even though it dosen't require one, Dave G. put a nose ring mount in it. This is with an OS 140 RX though.

http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...74/Pm34750.jpg

fishgod

My Feedback: (13)

I have a brand new Hyde ARI mount (Nose Ring Built in). I didn't want to have to buy another mount, but the firewall was just like yours about 1/4 inch to close. In about an hour I had the old plywood firewall removed, fuselage cleaned up using a dremel. I then used heavy solder to get the outside shape of the fuselage to make a new firewall. I cut the new firewall out of 1/4 inch carbon/end grain balsa/carbon sandwich. I wanted the extra beef in the firewall for the ARI mount. All in all about 2.5 hours and the new firewall was glued in and now I am able to use the mount I already had on hand.

Don Szczur

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Engine mounting. This whole process took about 45 minutes the second time through. Here are the steps for quick engine mounting.

Using a Hyde mount, cut a 1/8 inch light ply disk out and glue it to the back of the engine mount with thick CA. Place the mount in the fuselage and screw two of the engine mount bolts in. Push the engine/mount against the firewall and hold a spinner backplate in place to get a sense of engine position and general thrust alignment. Take the engine off the mount, slip the mount out and sand the backplate. Slip the engine mount back under the engine, put the two screws in and trial fit again to see if the sanding is making the spinner backplate generally parallell with the nose ring.

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Keep sanding. I used 80 grit sandpaper on a large sanding block because it removes the ply quicker. After you think you are close, put a spacer in place, with the prop nut to secure the spinner backplate. Push the engine/mount against the firewall and slide it so that the spinner is centered, while the spinner backplate is parallel to the nose ring. I sanded mine a little extra because the Brio needs a little less right thrust and just a little bit of down thrust. Maybe 1/32 inch each with respect to the spinner backplate and the nose ring (front of the fuselage). I also tilted the engine about 10 to 15 degrees (rotated the mount) so that the exhaust header will clear the cowling without hitting it or having to make a clearance hole (Central Hobbies Aluminum Header for the YS).

When its just right, put all 4 engine screws in, try it again. If it still looks good, slip a couple drops of thick CA on the mount, hold it in position with the spinner backplate centered on the front of the plane/nosering and wait 30 or so seconds for the CA to harden. I always use ZAP as it dries quickly and is very strong. Gently take out the 4 engine screws and then pull the engine out. Take out the drill with long extension (I use the flex extension) and drill through the 4 engine mount holes through the firewall. Pull the mount off, enlarge the holes just a bit (next drill size).

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Put the blind-nut ring on the back of the firewall, holding it while mounting the screws for the engine mount. Slide in the nose ring retainer and then Replace the engine, all 4 screws, and center the nose ring retainer on the engine so its got equal clearance all around it. Drip down a couple drops of thick CA to hold it in place. I use Zap Goo (its really flexible but will not let go) as a fillet to finish it off. Mount the throttle cable guide, Done!

Don Szczur

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For the second Brio, here are the steps for mounting the stab. Screw in the adjuster. Poke holes in the top and bottom to access the set screws. Draw a center line on the root rib. Mark the LE and the TE.

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Next, mount the stab with the stab tube. Check alignment generally with the wing. Mine needed the backs of each stab root ribs sanded for a flush fit. I checked alignment by measuring 11 inches out from the TE of the wing, and LE of the wing, and then checking the alignment of the stab so its basically aligned with the wing. Mine was pretty close, but I sanded the right stab rib root at the back to get it even closer. Next, cut the aluminum rod the correct length and then lay it between the two stabs and mark where it crosses at each root rib.

Don Szczur

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Next mount the stab and get an incidence meter. With the wings on, I blocked them up so the fuse was generally flat with the ground. I set the digital meter to "0" on the wings and then checked both. Its nice both wings were within .1 degree. Next I put the incidence meter on the stab and set for negative .5 degrees. The instructions call for positive .25 on the wing and negative .25 on the stab, so they are .5 degrees difference between the two. Next I marked with a black pen where the LE was on the fuselage. I also put two marks on the top where the aluminum tube marks were. Just transfer the black marks over to the fuselages side.

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Finally, get the ruler and mark the intersection of the two perpendicular lines to find the X. Drill a 1/8 inch hole on the X and slide in the aluminum rod. This was so perfect I won't use the donuts on the outside. Finish by putting the stabs back on, adjust the stab adjuster screws so the black mark lines up with the LE mark and then loosen the top screw a half turn and pull off the stab. Pull the aluminum rod out for painting (you can CA it in place when everything is covered and together. Put the small pieces of nyrod on each elevator half for a clean hole and access to the stab adjusters. Done!

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

While the wings are on, sand them to fit with the fuselage. Since the fuse is not straight, I found that instead of a block, use a sanding stick for a perfect mating surface against the fuselage and wing center.

Don Szczur

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By carefully sanding the fuselage with a block, most of the waves will just about dissapear. I'm told that a shot of primer and another sanding will take care of most of them for a nice smooth paintable surface. A little filler on the seam fills any holes or openings along the seam surface or any voids under the primer. Just poke the primer out and dab some filler in the void. This process did not take long at all. I used extra lightweight automotive body filler. Its two parts and sets up in about 20 minutes. Although it reminds me of chewing gum, it sands easily and does not clog the sand paper. The fuselages are ready for final sanding and painting after just an hour or so of filling and sanding.

Don

OM

Don,

You said that you used Klett hinges to make the rudder removable for easier shipping. I assume Klett hinges are the same as the Dubro hinges with pins. How do you manage the pin hinges? Do you replace them with one long piece of music wire that goes through all the hinges?

Thanks.

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, same as Dubro. I'll use one long wire through all the hinges. I have to make a trip to the hobby shop to get a wire with the correct diameter. I'll probably have it taped at the top, (or bottom) after a 90 degree bend. Probably the bottom for better looks. A few notes, or clarifications. I did not install a new rudder post. All I did was cut back to the existing balsa rudder post and then sand it so its flush/perpendicular at the back. The process of exchanging the rudder saved me approximately 1.5 oz. The process of cutting off the rudder and sanding the post flush took about 10 minutes. The other reason for doing this is I can fit the plane in a smaller box, which I discovered is a good thing- at least if flying Air France. The Brio design is a top-level competitive model and I have found the process of putting it together to be an excellent method of getting familiar with the plane and clarifying assembly steps.

I hope all have found this "by the numbers" building forum helpful. I'll add some more if needed, but I think I've covered most of the details to get you going.

Don Szczur

omsflyer

Thanks Don and others...who contributed to this...Charlie

yepe

Don and Troy,

I finally test flight my Brio. My setup is
1. YS160dz with hyde mount and nose ring
2. ES pipe and NMP header
3. Deps and MK BB horns
4. 4 futaba 9255 servo
5. Bolly long carbon landing gear
6. 16.5x12 apc prop with tru turn 3/38 lighten backplate
7. NMP 2 cell litium ion battery with 5.1 regulator
8. 24 dubro tank
Plane flies very well, tracking is good and vertical power is unlimited. CG a little bit nose heavy. Im using 15% coolpower fuel. The flying weight is 5200grams or 11.44 pounds which is 200 grams over FAI restrictions. The big problem is I'm joining CAOCC 2006 in Japan and flying this Brio. Any suggestions how to cut down 200 to 300 grams of weight. The fuse is painted with urethane, wing and stab is covering by monokote. Thanks

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

If my calculations are right you need to loose a little over 7 oz. You can take out 2 oz immediately switching to a 2-cell LiPo. I flew one of these at the NATS and it worked fine, although only flew it for 3 flights between charges.

Wheels- Joe Lachowski posted some interesting stats somewhere here on wheels, saving as much as an ounce. If you are flying off of pavement you could use smaller wheels and save as much as 1.5 oz depending on the type you are using now.

If you get into a real bind you can fly without wheel pants which puts you approximately 1.75 oz lighter.

I read somewhere that if you use a 24 oz soft drink bottle (the clear very lightweight plastic ones like pepsi) you can save about 1 to 1.5 oz over the Du Bro fuel tank.

Finally, you used DEPS. You could switch to two mini servos in the tail and go to 9411 or equivalent servos in the wing for another ounce savings.

Aside from all the above, double check your scale- just in case....

pmr

The paint job for my Brio fuse will be done by tomorrow and I'm very eager of the all up weight of the plane after I install the hardwares, electronics and engine. My set up is identical with my flying buddy Yepe and that of Don as he is the one I asked for advice. Thanks Don. I'm expecting it to be a little heavy since Yepe's set up and the guy who painted his fuse is thew same as mine. The question is, what should be the approx weight of a fuse paint job?

yepe

Thanks Don,

I already change my original rudder to a balsa build up with monokote covering and save 80 grams or 2.82 oz. I was thinking if we could use carbon fiber wing tube instead of alum. tube and save another 3 oz of weight. Any ideas where can we buy PBG tube that fits in the original socket. What size should I buy?

Eric.Henderson

Don,
Did your two come out heavy? I heard that you had sent them back to Dave Guerin for finishing?

Regards,

Eric.

Don Szczur

My Feedback: (1)

Eric,

Not that I'm aware of. I weighed everything and these should be lighter than my current Brio. Dave painted the fuselages. They turned out very nice. Missed you this past weekend. It was a great event.

Don

Eric.Henderson

Greensea is as far as the Nat's for me. To be there would have required Michelle taking time of work that she has reserved for the Nat's.

See you in Muncie.

Eric.

yepe

Don,

Where can I buy Carbon fiber wing tube for my Brio. What size should I order.

Thanks.