Long shot I know, but does anybody have a copyof this PDF?

Building the Synergy 90 3D

Before commencing assembly of your Synergy 90, read through these instructions so that you understand the order of assembly. This will help to prevent difficulties that can occur if things are done out of order.

Motor and servo recommendations:

Motor: 2-stroke .91, 4-stroke .91-1.10 (Best results have been found with the YS110FZ).
Servos: 6 servos, 3 high torque for ailerons and rudder, 2 medium or high torque for elevators, one for throttle (preferably a mini for throttle).


WING

1. Remove the ailerons and the wing from the box. Carefully remove the covering from over the hinge slots on the wing and the ailerons, wing bolt hole, servo boxes, servo wire exit, and the little holes on the leading edge for the front hold down dowels. Leave a slight overlap on the servo boxes and iron it down neatly on the inside walls of the servo box. On the hinge slots, do not simply slice the covering over the hole. Cut away a 2mm wide strip the length of the slot to allow a good entry slot for the epoxy.

2. Remove the two long dowel rods from the accessory bag. You will notice that one end of the dowels is machined a little bit smaller. That is the end that will go into the former (F2) at the front of the wing saddle. Carefully test fit the dowels into the wing. The dowels will fit into predrilled holes in the wing spar which will automatically align them for a good fit into F2. Be careful when inserting the dowels to find these predrilled holes and not to push the dowels through the spar. The holes can be seen by looking through the servo wire exits or by shining a light into the servo wire exits and looking though the dowel hole in the leading edge of the wing. Before gluing the dowels into the wing, test fit the dowels into the holes in F2. If necessary, enlarge the holes in F2. The fit should be a gentle slip fit with not slop. Glue the dowels into place in the wing with epoxy leaving the machined portion of the dowel sticking out of the LE.

3. Using epoxy, attach the ailerons to the wings with the supplied hinges. Allow enough gap to remain to ensure very free movement for large 3D style throws.
TIP: A little Vaseline or grease in the hinge pin area will help keep any epoxy from penetrating the hinge pin and keep the hinges free and flexible.

TIP: Clear tape or a strip of clear Oracover can be used to seal the gap between the aileron and the wing. The will stop air from flowing unevenly through the gap and make the airplane more stable. It will also reduce flutter, hinge wear, and servo wear.

TIP: Temperature variations can cause warping of the ailerons in shipping or storage. A covering iron can be used to heat the covering while flexing the aileron in the opposite direction of the warp in order to straighten it.

4. Mount the aileron servos to the wing, opening the servo box holes as needed to fit your choice of servo, install the control horns onto the ailerons, and use the supplied hardware to make the control rod. The control horns are mounted to a plywood mounting block and should be attached with wood screws. No control horn back plate is required.

This completes construction on the wing.

MOUNTING THE WING

5. Place the fuselage in a stand, wing saddle facing up. Remove the wing bolt block from the accessory bag. Test fit the block into the notched wing bolt block seat in the fuselage. Using a scrap of balsawood, make a support to hold the block in place and test fit the wing into the saddle using the supplied wing bolts. Align the wing by measuring the distance from the wing tips to the rudder post area and ensure that they are equal. There should be enough side play in the block to allow perfect alignment of the wing. If necessary, sand the edge of the block to allow for more adjustment. When satisfied with the fit, place epoxy on the block sides, slip into place with the support holding it in place, remount the wing, realign, and gently tighten the wing bolts. Allow this assembly to dry completely before moving it.

PREPARE THE TAIL SURFACES

6. Remove the tail surfaces from the bag and remove the covering from the hinge slots.

7. Remove the covering from the stabilizer slots on the fuselage. Slide the stabilizer into the fuselage. Measure the stab on both sides, leading and trailing edge until it is centered in the fuselage. Also, measure and equalize the stabilizer tips distance from the LE tip to wing tips. When satisfied that the stabilizer is centered, draw a fine line on the stabilizer where it meets the fuselage on both the top and bottom. Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage. Draw another line 2mm inside of the line you drew before. Carefully cut away the covering top and bottom between the inside lines. Do not cut into the wood.
TIP: A heated soldering iron with a fine point will remove the covering without cutting into the wood. Be careful not to scorch the wood or melt the covering outside of the lines.

8. Mount the wing to the fuselage. Insert the stab, carefully re-centering it in the fuselage. Check for parallelism between the wing and the stabilizer. When satisfied, spot glue the stab in place with thin CA. Remove the wing. Hold the fuselage at various angles and run thin CA into the four joints. Use medium CA to fill any remaining gaps. Allow the CA to form a small fillet and then spray it with accelerator.

TIP: Epoxy can be used for this step also. Paper towels and alcohol should be used to clean off any epoxy residue on the stabilizer or fuselage before it dries.

9. Cut away the covering on the fuselage for the vertical fin. Test fit the vertical fin in the fuselage and marker the sides where the fin base meets the fuselage. Remove the covering from the fin where it shall be glued. When satisfied with the fit, glue in with epoxy. As the fit is very tight, using CA may not allow time to properly position the fin.

Set aside the elevators and rudder for now. Next will be the motor. You will need to set the airplane on its tail which is not possible to do with the elevators and rudder mounted.

MOTOR

Note: With the various motor combinations possible, there is no absolute set distance from firewall to spinner back-plate provided or needed. The motor mounting procedures as outlined here are similar to mounting the motor in a modern F3A airplane where the builder determines the best motor angle and distance from the firewall for the combination to be used. Take into account your exhaust system (pipe through the belly pan or plain muffler), throttle arm position, etc.

10. Set the fuselage on the tail so it stands vertically. Pad the edge of your building table and use some masking tape to hold it securely so that it will not fall over. Leave the belly pan taped in place so that the cowl fits properly over the whole assembly.

11. Remove the thrust plates from the accessory bag. These are the thin, square plates with the fuel tank stopper hole in them. They are angle cut to provide right and down thrust. The plate with one edge of 6mm and the other edge ~2mm is for right thrust, the other, thinner plate is for down thrust. Align the holes ensuring that the thrust provided is in the correct direction and glue them together. Medium CA works fine here.

12. Cut out a hole in the nose of the cowl for the motor crank and drive washer to extend through. Place the thrust plate assembly on the firewall aligning the holes (do not glue at this time) and fit the cowl to the fuselage allowing for a 1-2cm overlap over the fuselage sides (this distance is not critical to the performance of the airplane). Tape the cowl into place and measure the distance from the cowl front to the thrust plate. Add 3mm to that measurement and that will give you the distance from motor mount base to the drive washer of the motor.

13. Tack glue the motor to the motor mount with a couple of drops of CA to provide your measured distance from step 12. Remove the cowl from the fuselage, place the motor and mount assembly on the firewall and fit the cowl over the motor and tape the cowl back into place in your predetermined position. Adjust the position of the mount on the thrust plates until a good relationship between the cowl and spinner back-plate is achieved. Experiment with different mounting angles in order to best suit your planned exhaust system. If necessary, change the distance of the motor on the motor mount (that is why you tack glued the motor to the mount instead of directly mounting it with screws. This gives the builder maximum flexibility in the motor set-up. When satisfied, carefully remove the cowl without disturbing the motor’s position and mark the location or the motor mount.

14. Glue the thrust plates into position, place the motor mount against the thrust plates and using the mount as a drill jig, drill the holes for the mount. Re-drill the holes on the firewall for the blind-nuts and install the blind nuts.

TIP: Drilling one hole, inserting a screw, then drilling the second hole and inserting a screw really helps keep the mount in the proper position to ensure that the four mounting holes are perfectly aligned.

15. Mark the bolt hole locations on the motor mount and drill and tap for your mounting screws. If using a four-stroke motor, use screws long enough to add nylon lock nuts to the bottom of the motor mount.

16. Bolt the mount to the firewall and install the motor to the mount. Mark the hole location for the throttle pushrod and drill.

17. Place the cowl back over the motor, put the spinner on the motor, align the cowl for a good fit leaving about 3mm clearance between the spinner back-plate and cowl nose ring and tape into place. Drill four holes, two on each side, to mount the cowl to the fuselage. Ensure that your locations for the screws are going into the wood behind the firewall. Drill one hole at a time, mount the screw, then the next hole, mount the screw, etc. When finished, remove the cowl and strengthen the screw holes with a drop of thin CA.

TIP: An extra set of hands makes the cowl mounting step must easier than taping it into place. If possible, enlist the aid of a friend or spouse to hold the cowl centered on the spinner at the right location while you drill the holes.

18. Determine the locations for intake and exhaust cooling holes, needle valves, etc., in the cowl and make the holes.

LANDING GEAR and BELLY PAN

19. Remove the belly pan from the fuselage. Inside the accessory pack are two brass or aluminum pins. These are glued into the holes on the front of the belly pan and lock the front of the belly pan into the tabs extending downwards from the firewall.. Glue them in with epoxy. The rear of the belly pan is secured with a 3mm screw that fits into a blind-nut already intalled in the fuselage behind the wing saddle. With the pins glued in, install the bally pan onto the fuselage. If using a tuned or muffled pipe, enlarge the exhaust hole in the belly pan two or three times its original size for cooling.

20. Using a removable marker, place tick marks on the fuselage where the landing gear slots on the belly pan are located.

21. Place the landing gear against the fuselage so that the gear is between the tick marks for clearance from the belly pan. Drill out the mounting holes, redrill the mounting plate for the blindnuts, and install the gear onto the fuselage.

22. Mount the wheels and pants with the provided hardware or use your own preferred method of wheel pant mounting.

IMPORTANT: Mount some tri-stock of hard balsa on the sides, front and rear of the landing gear plate with epoxy. This is an easy step and more than doubles the strength of the landing gear plate


FUEL TANK

23. Assemble the fuel tank, slide into position and secure with foam and balsa blocks CA’s in place to keep it from shifting. Run fuel lines as needed for your motor set-up.

TIP: If using a YS motor or other pumped motor, the tank can be mounted on the CG to prevent a changing as fuel is used up. Ensure that there is enough room to allow for tank expansion if a pressurize fuel system is used (YS or Cline regulator). If the tank fits to tightly, when it expands due to pressure it can crack the cockpit floor.

SERVOS

24. Mount the rudder servo in the tray in the fuselage. Cut away the covering over the elevator servo holes and mount the elevator servos in their holes just forward of the stabilizer. Determine the location for the throttle servo and mount it.

THROTTLE PUSHROD

25. With the tank and throttle servo in place, you can now route your throttle pushrod. Ensure that it operates smoothly with no binding or buckling.

ELEVATORS AND RUDDER

26. As you did with the ailerons, mount the elevators and rudder to the stabilizer and fin using epoxy on the hinges.

27. Cut away the covering over the slots for the pull-pull ruder cables.

28. Mount the horns and set up the pushrods for the elevators and pull-pull cable for the rudder.

RADIO

29. Mount the switch harness, receiver and battery. Connect all servos and check for function.

BALANCE AND CONTROL THROWS

30. Balancing the airplane is absolutely necessary. Flying an airplane with an improper Center of Gravity can result in an airplane that cannot be controlled which can lead to loss of the aircraft, injury, or death. The Synergy has a wide balance range and flight characteristics can be controlled easily with changes to the CG. Forward for precision flying and more rearwards for 3D style flying. Recommended starting points are from 260mm to 240mm as measured from the TRAILING EDGE of the wing at the fuselage sides.

IMPORTANT: Ensure the provided measurements are made from the Trailing Edge of the wing!!! In this case, 260mm will be more forward than 240mm.


31. The following control throws are provided as a good starting point.

NOTE: 3D control rates and rates larger significantly than the low rates are to be used for 3D flying at low speeds ONLY. Full rate maneuvers at higher speeds, especially with more powerful motors will cause catastrophic failure to the airframe. While the airframe is very strong, every measure possible has been taken to make the airframe light enough to perform the most advanced 3D maneuvers and attempting these types of maneuvers at higher speeds should never be done.

[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD]CONTROL
[/TD]
[TD]LOW RATES
[/TD]
[TD]EXPO
[/TD]
[TD]HIGH RATES
[/TD]
[TD]EXPO
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Ailerons
[/TD]
[TD]25mm
[/TD]
[TD]-50%
[/TD]
[TD]60mm
[/TD]
[TD]-95%
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Rudder
[/TD]
[TD]120mm
[/TD]
[TD]-40%
[/TD]
[TD]140mm
[/TD]
[TD]-50%
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Elevator
[/TD]
[TD]+16/-17mm
[/TD]
[TD]-30%
[/TD]
[TD]+80/-70
[/TD]
[TD]-80%
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

Great timing, I was also looking for set-up info on the Synergy 90!