Storing 2m Pattern Models
#1
Thread Starter

Just moved into a new house with a workshop. Previously my models were built and lived in the loft (attic) and only I could stand on/fall over them.
Now I need to get them off the floor and benches so want to make some racks to hold 2m pattern models with fixed gear and without removing the stabs. Anyone got any pics they can share?
Thanks
Malcolm
Now I need to get them off the floor and benches so want to make some racks to hold 2m pattern models with fixed gear and without removing the stabs. Anyone got any pics they can share?
Thanks
Malcolm
#2

My Feedback: (31)
Hello Malcom
I don't have any pictures right now but what I did in my trailer, where my airplanes live, I just used plywood as a shelf. At I'm in the process of making the other side of the trailer carry two more planes. I intend to attach chains and a few hinges mounted to the wall. The "shelf" can be folded up out of the way when not in use or let down and the chains hold the shelf level and the fuse sits on the gear. I suppose that you could just use a wide strip of ply wood just under the gear and tail wheels but it would be plane specific. The long shelf allows me to carry many different sized airplanes around, it also allows me to place the transmitter and charger and all that stuff with the airplane. I used 12" long strips of velcro screwed down in the middle to wrap around the bottom of the geat leg to secure. This system holds my airplanes secure over some pretty rough roads without anything coming loose so far. I also made a wood adapter to mount on the wall like a U to hold the wings via the wing tube that sit right behind the fuse. If you need some pictures I'll try to take some tonight when I get home and figure out how to load them here. In my trailer I didn't use the chains but a piece of metal plumbers pipe screwed into the ceiling and floor so one side is fixed and the other will be movable to make walking inside the trailer easy.
I don't have any pictures right now but what I did in my trailer, where my airplanes live, I just used plywood as a shelf. At I'm in the process of making the other side of the trailer carry two more planes. I intend to attach chains and a few hinges mounted to the wall. The "shelf" can be folded up out of the way when not in use or let down and the chains hold the shelf level and the fuse sits on the gear. I suppose that you could just use a wide strip of ply wood just under the gear and tail wheels but it would be plane specific. The long shelf allows me to carry many different sized airplanes around, it also allows me to place the transmitter and charger and all that stuff with the airplane. I used 12" long strips of velcro screwed down in the middle to wrap around the bottom of the geat leg to secure. This system holds my airplanes secure over some pretty rough roads without anything coming loose so far. I also made a wood adapter to mount on the wall like a U to hold the wings via the wing tube that sit right behind the fuse. If you need some pictures I'll try to take some tonight when I get home and figure out how to load them here. In my trailer I didn't use the chains but a piece of metal plumbers pipe screwed into the ceiling and floor so one side is fixed and the other will be movable to make walking inside the trailer easy.
#3
Thread Starter

Thanks for that TW. I could put up some shelving wide enough for the model to stand on its gear and wide enough for the stab to clear the wall but these would be big shelves. I was thinking of welding some steel tube at about 80 degrees to a flat steel strap which would screw to the wall. The tubes would have foam pipe insulation pushed over them. The model would lie on its side on the tubes with the wheels against the wall and the stab parallel to the wall. My worry with this system is does a composite fuz at normal room temperature "move" when side loaded? Logic tells me no but my anal nature makes me nervous of this.
Anyone but Gus Balfour have any comments?
Malcolm
Anyone but Gus Balfour have any comments?
Malcolm
#4
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From: South Lyon,
MI
I just did a search for storage on RCUniverse and it took me here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.a...94&key=storage
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.a...94&key=storage
#5

I know you've gone electric, Malcolm, but why not just hang the fus from the prop, on some suitably spaced battens fixed across the rafters at suitable spacing---or if electric props are too feeble, and the current doesn't drip out of the front or something, from the tailwheel assembly on a bit of strong cable on a ceiling hook?
#6

My Feedback: (31)
I did at one time use two angled brackets covered in foam but I found after extended stays the fuse warped. My shelfs are about 24" wide so the stab does stick over a bit. One good thing about this system is it allows you to use the "Shelf" as an extra work bench or storage area if there's no fuse there. I covered mine in cheap carpet.
#7
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: mcdanman2003
I just did a search for storage on RCUniverse and it took me here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.a...94&key=storage
I just did a search for storage on RCUniverse and it took me here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.a...94&key=storage
I think all that thread goes to show is the US houses are far bigger than UK ones and shall we say better equiped in regards of storage and building space, i'e, basements and double garages.
I shall now go back to building on the dining table in our 1 bedroom flat (which is'nt a small one . . . . . . . compared to others )
#8

My Feedback: (31)
[size=4]I own a 4200 square foot house with a double garage that we custom built and I have to store and build in my 6x12 trailer. I was stupid to think my wife would let me bring "Those stinky things" into the house. In retrospect I should have built a 3500 sf house and a 4 bay garage with a model shop in the other two bays.
I do have one helluva "Manly Room" that one day I might get to turn into a shop it's 27'x27' only problem is to get in/out of it you have to go up a set of stairs and two hall ways. Hanger rash would be a problem
I do have one helluva "Manly Room" that one day I might get to turn into a shop it's 27'x27' only problem is to get in/out of it you have to go up a set of stairs and two hall ways. Hanger rash would be a problem
#10
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From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
I have a couple of racks suspended from the ceiling rafters. Each consists of two thin planks, about 6' wide, spaced about 2' apart, and hang about 18" from the ceiling. These are covered with cutoff from old carpet tiles to give a nice soft cushion effect. The only thing to watch out for is the wheels, which dangle down to about head height [X(]
If I remember, I'll take a photo to show what I mean.
If I remember, I'll take a photo to show what I mean.
#11
Thread Starter

Here is the setup I ended up with.
The uprights fixed to the wall are stainless steel C rail which we use at work to mount pipe clamps to. The model supports are pieces of 15mm OD tubing which have had an 8mm bolt swaged into the end using our hydraulic hose crimping machine. a nut and washer are fitted to the bolt before it is swaged in. This is used to clamp the support in the desired position on the rail.
The wing rack is two pieces of C rail notched, bent at right angles and welded. These are fixed to the wall and used with more pieces of tubing as wing spacers.
Totally over engineered but works well and can be expanded easily - Job Done!
Malcom
The uprights fixed to the wall are stainless steel C rail which we use at work to mount pipe clamps to. The model supports are pieces of 15mm OD tubing which have had an 8mm bolt swaged into the end using our hydraulic hose crimping machine. a nut and washer are fitted to the bolt before it is swaged in. This is used to clamp the support in the desired position on the rail.
The wing rack is two pieces of C rail notched, bent at right angles and welded. These are fixed to the wall and used with more pieces of tubing as wing spacers.
Totally over engineered but works well and can be expanded easily - Job Done!
Malcom



