ORIGINAL: ghoffman

it is not the weight for me it is the size. On a 50cc Extra, who cares, but on a smaller gasser profile 3D plane it is cumbersome and it can get smaller, check out the empty space inside:

ORIGINAL: MTK

Aesthesis flew her maiden today. The SAP 180 HP is just too danged light....Aesthesis is a tad tail heavy. Originally intended for the ZDZ40, she was set-up accordingly. Need figure out how to put nose weight in and not add any extra weight.

Anyway, she came in at 9 lbs 24 ozs on the nose. The SAP has no problem hauling this bird around.

Have a little trimming to do which is normal, but first feel is very positive. I am pleased! A little disappointed at her tail heaviness but pleased overall. Here are a few photos from the too windy session this morning

ORIGINAL: MarkGrabowski

Matt, would you mind starting a new thread detailing your new plane... would be cool to learn more about how it was built and what your design parameters were. Cool paint job, btw!

ORIGINAL: MTK

Anyway, she came in at 9 lbs 24 ozs on the nose. The SAP has no problem hauling this bird around.

ORIGINAL: Joystick TX

I just noticed the weight; 9 lbs 24 ozs. Hmmmm.

That is like the girl I knew who said she was 5' 14'' tall. She had this thing about not being over 6' tall.

ORIGINAL: MTK


Cool! Yes it's one way pattern people fool themselves on weights of crates.

6-0-1, 1/2 dzn of the other.

Anyway, the twin pushrod set-up saved only about 1/3 oz overall (about 10 grams) compared to twin servos, except the weight was removed from the tail and distributed more in the middle of the fuse. I hope that will be enough of a weight re-distribution to get the balance more to my liking.

ORIGINAL: cmoulder

PS

I'll bet if I sent him the exact servo position, servo arm length and control horn position and length, Mark Hunt could figure out the pull-pull cut-out locations and make a template with his CAD program... hmm....

ORIGINAL: MTK

Here's the RECIPE that BOB and MATT have created (with bits of added info from few other sources) for the care and feeding of the SAP 180 with some additional inclusions to Bob's original post #877

1) [link=http://www.syssaaircraft.com/cart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=11]SAP-180HP engine[/link], 87-89 octane pump gas (10% ethanol), [link=http://www.syntheticoildistributor.com/amsoil_2cycle_oil.html]AMSoil Saber Pro[/link] 85:1 (after break-in with dino oil)

2) Another excellent synthetic oil you may use is BelRay MC-1 motorcycle oil mixeed 50:1. This oil may be used from initial runs to everyday

3) [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZ646&P=7]Macs tuned pipe header for OS 1.40RX[/link], available from Tower Hobbies. The mounting holes need drilled to M5 size and recessed to fit the bolt heads and washers

4) Per Hoffman, NordLock washers under the bolts hold the header secure. This is a standard McMaster Carr item(We have had some trouble securing the header on the exhaust long term and NordLocks are touted to help). Another approach to holding the header on is to use Locktite threadlocker (per Todd Syssa) on the bolt threads. Removal of the locked bolts requires heat up with a soldering iron first

5) [link=http://www.escomposites.com/petrol.htm]ES 30G or 40G tuned pipe[/link]from escomposites.com. We install a couple button head screws on the stem to keep the couplers on. Either 2-56 or 4-40 X 1/8'' work fine; see item 8. The distance needed from the spark plug to the baffle inside the pipe is 27'' minimum, measured in straight line. We are currently running our set-ups with a distance at 28''. Matt has run to a distance of 30'' with very little performance difference noted

6) [link=http://www.siliconehose.com/commerce/ccp11370-870id4-ply-silicone-saej20-compliantgl-c40-087.htm]Silicone turbo hose[/link] from siliconehose.com, 0.870'' ID, rated SAE J20 R1, for the coupler, and also Matt (MTK) has had great success with [link=http://www.mcmaster.com/#5033k43/=7gklvt]Teflon tube coupler[/link] material from McMaster-Carr. Use standard nylon zip ties to secure the silicone turbo hose, and [link=http://www.mcmaster.com/#spring-hose-clamps/=7gloj1]wide-band spring hose clamps[/link] (Part # 7329K15) for securing the Teflon tube. The wire spring clamp is also used successfully and is what Matt currently uses to hold the teflon coupler

7) Use a [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9237216/anchors_9687199/mpage_31/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9687199]1-inch long piece of 0.875'' OD aluminum tube[/link] as a spacer between the header and the pipe to minimize direct exposure of the turbo hose to exhaust gases. If you use the teflon material as coupler, the aluminum spacer is not necessary and in fact may cause you grief because it will slide inside the teflon tube. The ally spacer is a great idea only for the silicone turbo hose to keep hot exhaust gas internal exposure to a minimum

8) Place [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9694367]3 or 4 buttonhead screws[/link] near the end of the header and the ES pipe to prevent the hose from sliding off. A couple of zip ties on each end will secure it solidly.

9) The engine can be hard mounted, but for pattern you will probably want to use a [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9393393]soft 'isolator' mount[/link], making your own as described in [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6285026/tm.htm]this thread[/link] by MTK. I'm fairly certain that Merle Hyde would be happy to make a soft mount, using the stand-off bolt template supplied with the engine. The Hyde mount will cost about 200$ based on work Hyde has done with the ZDZ40cc mounts. The noise difference is substantial between hard mounting and soft mounting an engine....airframe and radio high freq vibration difference is also substantial

9a) Intake noise is considerable eventhough the intake is rear mounted. Matt uses a simple block of very open cell sponge from Home Depot to help reduce some of the intake noise. It's the type orf sponge material used for drywall sponging

10) [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9607516]Nose ring[/link] and [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9599410]Static nipple[/link] on the carb ambient pressure reference plate. Eliminates inconsistent engine runs caused by pressure changes inside the cowl.

11) [link=http://www.apcprop.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LP15512W]APC 15.5x12W prop[/link] (break-in with something with less pitch). I have tried a bunch of props and there is something magical about this prop with this set-up. The standard APC 16x12 pattern is almost as good, and an acceptable substitue if you can't get the 15.5x12W, which I got from Gravesrc.com

12) We have also used successfully the 18.1x10 apc, 17x10 apc, and 17x12 apc. The 17x12 that Matt uses allows lower rpm than the 15.5x12 Bob uses, but works well in a 10 1/2 pound pattern plane for noise and constant speed. It is the lowest noise set-up we have tried. The point is they both work well depending on what you want out of the package. The 18.1x10 and 17x10 are lower load overall (noisier too) and are good choices for break in.

Matt has tried the 15.75x11 3 blade (courtesy of Dave Lockhart). Matt's engine worked well on this prop but Temptress less well with it. The 3 blade repitched to 10'' had been tried before with the webra up front but it didn't work well then either.

13) Also recommended (to keep things light) is a [link=http://www.syssaaircraft.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=35&idcategory=11]Syssa (Tech-Aero) Ultra IBEC[/link] , which eliminates the need for a separate igntion battery and switch, saving about 5 ounces of weight (HUGE!), as well as optical kill switch, all controlled from the Tx.

14) Bob is also using a [link=http://www.tech-aero.net/plr5-i]Tech-Aero Designs switch/regulator[/link] for the Rx, with a Fromeco Li-Ion 2600 mah, but with the proliferation of LiFe batteries one could use one of these with no regulator. We like the Tech-Aero reg because it has a fail-on switch, so even with a LiFe I might use the Tech-Aero switch/reg for this feature alone.

15) Matt uses a single regulator and a single 1780 Lipo airborne battery. Point is one has several choices in regard to airborne battery set-up. Both Bob and Matt see similar current draw requirements per flight of about 200 mah per 15 minute flight

As we continue to develop the set-ups we will post findings here-in

ORIGINAL: tele1974

MTK. Could you post a list of pattern planes that the Syssa setup will work with. Planes that wouldn't require a major rekit. Obviously the Pentathon Evo would be the first on the list. The Focus II...What else? I understand their are a lot of planes.

ORIGINAL: Jeff-RCU

Matt, you are struggling with what every piped 2 stroke application struggles with. The change that occurs when the engine comes on and off the pipe. We sometimes have the mentalitiy that we need the maximum HP out of an engine, but what we really need is maximum throttleability (linear up and down). I''ve often thought the the thing to do is run a slightly bigger 2 stroke and put it on a muffler instead of a tuned pipe. I've run the OS1.40 on a muffler with very good results turning a 15.5 x12 4 blade prop.

ORIGINAL: cmoulder

If we had a throttle curve with 10 points we might be able to sneak up on the jump and slide into it more gradually. My old 9cs has only a 5-point curve, and perhaps it's just my imagination but I think I have tamed it a bit with the throttle curve. Also I am running higher rmp's so the tendency is to stay above the jump.

ORIGINAL: tele1974

MTK can you post a list of planes that you feel would be a good fit for the Syssa on a pipe?